Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Apologies for the newbie question...I'm going to my first reptile show next weekend (woo!) and plan to get my first snake. My primary considerations are that it be docile when handled, relatively easy to care for, not so big that I can't handle it by myself, and nice to look at (in that order).

The books I've read and my herp friends are divided on whether I should get a BCI or a ball python. I'm leaning towards the boa because it is supposedly easier to feed, friendlier when handled, and I could probably afford to get a morph, which I'd really like. I'm a little intimidated by the idea of having a 10 foot snake in a few years, however. I have the space and funds to build an 8 foot long or so enclosure, but I worry I won't be able to handle the snake, or that it will somehow escape and eat my geriatric 15 pound dog or maybe a potential boyfriend.

Any thoughts on whether a BCI might be right for me? Is it something a lone beginning herper can handle? Thanks?

I wouldn't worry too much about a BCI getting to be 10 feet in a few years, especially if it is a male. That would be a pretty huge and fast growing specemin for either gender. If you want something guaranteed to never reach or surpass 10 feet, you could go with a hogg island or a central american boa. Personally, I think a BCI or a BCC are both good choices as long as you do a little research. Also, an 8 foot cage really isn't necesarry, it can't hurt, but not required, you know?

Good to know that they don't typically get that huge. I imagine some writers exaggerate a bit to dissuade people who aren't serious about making the commitment to a snake. I'll keep my eyes out for a nice male. Thanks!

If you go w/ a ball python, you have color and pattern mutation options out the wazzoo. I don't keep up w/ them, but there are tons and I'm sure that by now, some of them are as affordable if not more affordable than boa morphs. Also, if you do decide to go w/ a ball, do not, under any circumstance buy an import. Just don't. One of the benefits to buying a color or pattern mutation is that you know it's a CBB (captive born and bred) animal unless some unscrupulous dealer is trying to pass off an import that falls within the normal variability range of appearance as a morph of some sort. Those are easy to spot because if they're a good salesman, you'll get that "too good to be true" feeling (REAL, new mutations cost money - lots of it - and the animal is an import which you are going to keep away from anyway) or if they're a bad salesman, they'll say something that includes the word "could" in the phrase. As for ease of feeding, a lot of the balls bad reputation stems from the numerous import animals and the fact that they like to fast during breeding season. No biggie. I still haven't heard of a ball python starving itself to death during breeding and again, you're NOT going to buy an import Temperament, they range. Some are so paranoid and worried that they stay balled up when you pick them up. I've actually seen a few that are nippy, but the majority (in my opinion w/ limited experience) seem to fall somewhere in the middle and are curious, active creatures that hesitate to bite. Size wise, they're easy to manage.

As for boas, again, color and pattern mutations are out there and are affordable. Same thing here, do NOT buy an import if you're unfamiliar w/ the care of an import. Size wise, BCI CAN get big, but they usually don't get too large unless you buy a female and feed the begeesus out of it. If you buy a baby (which I'd recommend no matter which species you purchase), your experience will grow with the animal so don't worry about the end size. Temperament wise, boas are just like balls, some are reclusive and don't like to be bothered, some are nasty, but the majority are in the middle. Feeding wise, boas are known to eat, and eat well for the most part. You also have the option of buying an animal that is a "dwarf" species or island locality. These are BCI that generally do not attain sizes greater than 6-7 feet. Some stay as small as 3.5 feet. These will generally cost a little more than a regular "Colombian" and also have various color and pattern morphs that can put them right out of the price range of a first time buyer. Before you buy one of these, ask about temperament (or even better, do your research before you go to the show) because some are known to be pretty nippy.

No matter which way you go, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH the species before you buy it. You'll want to know the proper feeding regimen, minimum cage size, heat and humidity goals, etc, before you get it home. Have the habitat "snake ready" before you leave for the show. Thankfully, balls and boas can both thrive in a similar environment so you won't have to make a decision on which species before you go to the show. And although you'll probably get a 100% healthy animal, take it to a qualified reptile vet after purchasing it just for a wellness exam and fecal smear.
There is more information on the net than you could possibly need or want pertaining to both species. I'd say that a good portion of it is pretty worthless. But, a lot of it is great information. General guidelines for both species as far as keeping goes like this:
Up to a year old, feed one rodent that is equivalent to the girth of the snake every 10-14 days (males on a more spaced out regimen than females). I'd say about 5-7 days after the lump disappears would be the day to feed again. Ask the dealer you buy from if the animal is eating "frozen/thawed" rodents yet. If not, don't necessarily not buy the animal, conversion to F/T can be easy if you do it right (lots of info on the net). In my opinion, rats are preferable to mice nutrionally. I try to get my new snakes on F/T rats ASAP.
Temperatures from 78-90 (have a temperature gradient, or "cool" and "warm" side within this range) are good and you'll want to have enough space in the enclosure for the snake to pick out a good spot. Also, BUY A TEMPERATURE GUN!!!! They're cheap and are probably the single most valuable tool you can own w/ respect to keeping snakes. You may also want to buy a small snake hook, just in case you need it.
Humidity should be around 60%. Depending on the type of enclosure you purchase, you may need to mist with a water bottle and sprayer attachment 3 times a day, never, or somewhere in between. Humidity is just as important to a snakes health as feeding, temperatures, and a clean bill of health.
Your enclosure can be as scarcely decorated as a water bowl and the snake, or it can be incredibly elaborate. Whatever you prefer.
Leave your new snake alone for the first week or so. Only disturbing it to clean the cage and/or replace the water. This adjustment period will do 2 things. It will lower the stress of your animal allowing it to acclomate faster and test your ability to do the right thing. Gradually increase your interaction over the next few weeks to your desired level. If the snake starts refusing food, go back to square one.

Anyway, this is probably more than you wanted to know but once in a while I get the itch to contribute to the forum. So, now that I've scratched the itch I'll stop typing!! -Jonathan

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Jonathan Brady
"Sarcasm is angers ugly cousin" -Dr. Buddy Rydell (Jack Nicholson) in "Anger Management".

BCA's now. I personally have never been in direct contact with a pissy bolivian boa. They don't get very large, and are usually very easy to handle. The picture is of my "male" bolivian, (he was sold to me as a male but he's huge for a male so it's making me wonder) he's about 6 feet long or so and maybe the thickness of a softball. Puppy dog tame.

I hadn't even thought of bolivian boas. I'll keep those in mind when doing my research, and it sure looks like you have a beauty! Thank you!

Amarali aren't necessarily a good choice for a first time snake keeper. Simply because they are less forgiving to novice mistakes or unfamiliarity. Same goes for BCC. BCI or Argentine BCO would be the best choice for a first boa.

Wow - thanks so much for all the information! I will be sure to research the heck out of my chosen species once I make a decision. Good advice especially on the added benefits of getting a morph - I wanted to be sure I got a captive-bred snake, and it hadn't occurred to me that getting a morph would be a good way to ensure that.

Oh, and my friend who hooked me on snakes is my neighbor, so I'll be sure to get his help setting up the habitat before we go to the show. Again, thanks so much for the advice. (and your snakes are gorgeous!)

Jonathan,
I too am getting back into snakes after a break of about 25 years, and man a lot has changed!!! I love the Boa in the top pic on your post. Can you tell me what type of Boa this is? The markings are beautiful and would this be a good species for a novice getting back into snake keeping? It looks like what I have seen called a Suriname, am I right?
Thanks
NCHornet

That animal was born in captivity to a female that was collected in the wild while gravid. She was captured in the Essiquibo river delta in Guyana (which borders Suriname). Many people say that Suriname and Guyana Boa Constrictor Constrictor (BCC) are indistinguishable from one another. Some would disagree. I say that if you know the provinence of an animal, do your best to keep it with another animal from the same area. For that reason, I'll be breeding that bad boy with this girl next year (if she regains her weight from breeding this year).

As for whether or not you should get one as a "first time" snake or not. I would say that depends entirely upon you. If you are the kind of person that will "do your homework" & follow the rules, have everything set up ahead of time, and maybe have a friend with experience in reptiles that you could look to for help, then a BCC would be a good choice for you as a first time animal. I had about 4 months experience when I got her back in '01 and thankfully never made any drastic mistakes, but looking back I probably should have waited a little longer.
Hope this helps, Jonathan (a fellow Charlottean if I'm understanding your handle correctly)
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Jonathan Brady
"Sarcasm is angers ugly cousin" -Dr. Buddy Rydell (Jack Nicholson) in "Anger Management".

Go with a ball and you get an animal with the personality of a STOP Sign.
Boa's are much more interactive and generally kept by a better class of people

Oh, so true!

I don't know, maybe I'm not classy enough to own a boa. Seriously, though, if their temperaments are that great, then I'll definitely get one.

The mistake I often see people make when they are first starting out and they mention BCI they ONLY think of Colombian imperator.

One great thing about the BCI subspecies, they range from Mexico down through Central America and into Colombia. Not to mention numerous insular locales.

When dealing with ANY BCI outside of Colombia you DO NOT have to worry about a boa that will reach anywhere near 10ft. In fact I'd say the largest you are going to encounter out of a HUGE female outside of Colombia is 7ft.

The BIG Colombians are not as common today as they once where. Recent bloodlines and breeding for smaller sizes has resulted in smaller boas. For example, a lot of captive "Colombians" were at one point bred into Hypos or Salmons, both of which have origins in Panama and other Central American locales.
Big Colombian females reach about 8ft. now, and big males 7ft. Both of these sizes usually come from significant feeding and extreme age.

A male that is fed well of ANY BCI locale, fed to be a healthy, strong and breedable male, would be around 3-4.5 ft. Keep in mind Males are a lot slimmer build than females as well.

Here are some available BCI locales, and expected sizes for males/females. One consideration I would make (I don't know what quality of show you are going to), use the show to get a feel for boas, but buy from a breeder that you know has quality animals and specializes in Boas.
(Format, Male/Female size)
Mexican (Sonoran, Cancun): 3.5/5 ft.
Tarahumara Mt. (Mexico):3/4 ft.
Nicaraguan: 4/6 ft.
Hog Island: 4/ 6ft.
Honduran: 4/6 ft.
Cay Caulker: 3/4 ft.
Crawl Cay: 3/4 ft.
Costa Rican: 5/6.5 ft.
Panamanian: 4.5/5.5 ft.
Colombian: 6/7.5 ft.

I only keep Hog Islands, have never kept Colombians or any other locale, but, I have to agree with this statement. I've only ever even seen one female boa that came anywhere near 8 feet, and it was so fat from being powerfed that it was disgusting.
The biggest reason I got my Hogs in the first place was because of their small size. I looked into insulars because of that size difference. Now, I fell in love with my Hogs, and I'd rather have them than plain Colombians, or just about any BCI, but, the size factor is kind of moot at this point, now that I've seen more boas.

I was talking to a breeder the other day who said his *largest* BCI male is 6 feet.

If you're looking at BCI, I definitely encourage you to look into the insular varieties. They're some great animals. But also, talk to breeders. Ask them how big the adults are. In general, if the parents are small, the babies wont grow to be monsters.

My largest male is about 5ft. and the size of a large rat snake. I think as more morphs are available in this size range (and more people properly raise their boas) they will become the ultimate pet. People buy Ball Pythons because of the color morphs, well since Boas are by far the superior animal (opinion) I think it is only a matter of time before small boas win out.

You mentioned the monster Hog you saw. I bet that it had fat rings on or near the tail, a very small head compared to the neck thickness, and probably didn't look 100% pure.