Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I was thinking 4ft long x 2ft wide x 2 ft tall. I will use 3/4" birch or oak plywood, for the back, sides, and probably 1/2" for the bottom. I will cover the inside with 1/8" plexiglass for easy cleaning. The front I planned on dividing into two equal 1/4" glass sections. The top would be 1/2 solid and maybe 1/2 a screened frame that would slide in a Dado or groove. I thought a full screened top would disipate to much heat. I would make the solid part removable as well for cleaning purposes. Will the stick on heating pads heat through 1/2" plywood and 1/8" plexiglass, or should I make the bottom 1/4" glass instead?
I have seen many cages where they use sliding doors to access the interior, do y'all think this might be a better way to go? I was planning on having one large stick on pad on the bottom of the end that had the solid top, then over the screened top section I would have a heat lamp, and adjust the heat accordingly at each end. Or would it be better to regulate the two ends with different size under tank heaters each controlled with a different thermostat, one at 82 degrees and maybe 95 for the other? I think this would be easier than heating with light, because if you heat with light you need two different bulbs one UV heat lamp for day time and one infared for nightime, and I am not sure how that would work. If I use the 1/4" plate glass for the bottom that would give me the most heat transfer, is it reasonable to think that undertank heaters alone can heat this large of an area? BTW. I plan on keeping the snake in a downstairs room where I have a hot tub that stays covered. The humidity level stays regular between 55 and 60%. I have a dehumidifier that keeps the entire room at that level. Well as you can see I have a lot of questions and y'all probably get tired of us newbies but I would really appreciate the help. I would love a Surinam as long as they aren't to snippy. I know snakes will vary by individual like people but some species are known to be more aggressive than others.
Thanks everyone!!
Kevin

I would not bother with the plexi lining of the interior...it seems like a lot of work for not much return. If you use the good plywood and finish it well it will be easy to clean without the acrylic.

Top venting will lose a lot of heat so I would minimise it as much as possible. Just enough for whatever lights you want to use and make the main venting through the rear or ends.

I use heat pads under 1/2 inch ply cage bottoms and they heat just fine through them. I use strips to lift the cage for clearance over the pad.

I have both sliding and drop front cage doors and they both work well for me. The one piece door is a bit more scenic though.

Peter
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Peter and Sara
Beouf River Reptiles

Thanks for the reply. No matter what top coating I apply it won't give the protection the plexiglass will. I may also use some really thin plate glass, depending on what is cheaper. I could also do it in a formica, this would allow easy clean up, and I can use a sand texture color that might look cool. I think I am just going to have one UV light that comes through the rear of the cage, it will be low watt and have a protector around it, this will be on a timer for 12 on 12 off, and it will give the snake the needed UV rays. In a small section of the sliding top I will use a radiant heat panel or other heat emitter and then the rest of the top can be solid. I can cut some vents in the top of the back and ends as you suggested using the plastic vent covers. I still believe a 1/4" plate glass will transfer the most heat for the bottom. How does this final design sound?

I'm not sure if I understand exactly what ventilation options you are considering, although I will say that I have always found it easier to cover excessive ventilation than it is to add ventilation once a cage is up and running. So don't worry about that too much, although I don't think a screen top is the right idea either.

I also don't like the idea of plexiglass or any acrylic to line the interior. As the material crazes from exposure to cleaning compounds and gets slightly scratched from any scrubbing and/or hard water you'll find it difficult to clean.

Also, I would not make the floor plate glass either. I know those heat pads are designed to be stuck on aquaria, but that does not mean that glass is a good conductor of heat.

What I recommend, assuming you can't afford a radiant heat panel, is to build the entire cage with the same thickness of wood, whichever you prefer. Then cut a hole out of the bottom of the floor that is 2" longer and wider than the size of heat pad you'd like to use. Keep this cutout near one end of the cage but not too close to the walls of the cage so the structural integrity of the floor remains intact.

Also route a shallow groove from the cutout to the back or near side of the cage.

Then cover the entire floor with 1/4" or 1/8" Sintra or other brand of expanded PVC sheet. Your heat pad will be attached directly to the underside of the Sintra with the appropriate aluminum tape and the cord will run out the back in the shallow groove. Expanded PVC is a good conductor of heat.

The sides of ceiling of the cage will not take as much abuse as the floor so you can cover them with just about anything, assuming you don't have a mist or rain system running in the cage. Formica, vinyl film, contact paper, or even a bathroom quality latex paint. I still would not recommend thin acrylic.

I know you had a lot more questions but your post was hard to read without spacing, at least while I'm waking up, LOL. If there's anything else you'd like answered, just ask away.
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Current snakes:

0.0.1 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Java locale (green)

1.2 Gonyosoma oxycephala - Jave local (green)

2.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Seleyar locale (all black)

1.2 Gonyosoma janseni - Celebes locale (Black & Tan)

Thanks Chris,
I have actually found plate glass to be a great heat transfer and it has worked great for me in the past. In another forum I discussed about doing the sides and back in formica, it comes in a lot of different colors and textures and it cleans easy. Like I said it has been a long time since I kept snakes, but I never liked to use harsh chemicals in cleaning due to residue odors. If you are giving the snake the attention it deserves there isn't much that can't be cleaned up with warm water, or mild dish soap. When I change my substrate I may use a weak bleach solution but quickly follow up with warm water and dry rags.
As for the top, I am going to use a sliding panel, that will slide into a dado on the sides and back panels. I will leave the top as solid as possible with only enough screened section to clear the radiant panel or other heat emitting device. So one end will be heated from above with either a radiant panel or heat emitter, this will probably be the hot end, the other end will be heated by the UTH and will be the cooler end. Both will be controlled by seperate thermostats. Additional venting can be done by installing plastic louvered vents at the top of the back and or ends. I will post some pics when I get it built.