Have you heard any calling? I think with the first time, they may fool around like this for up to several days before she lays any eggs, and after that, he may take several hours to a day or so to fertilize them. I believe most of the tinctorius do prefer an upturned coco shell or something of that nature to lay eggs in, although my azureus (which are either very closely related, or actually a tinctorius, depending upon the particular taxonomic view point) lay on large, sturdy, live plant leaves right in the open. They might like a few oak leaves in something like a petri dish under the hut.
Don't be disappointed if the first few tries don't produce viable eggs. It sometimes takes them a few times before they get it right. Infertile eggs will turn a pale grey or white, and the fertile ones will have a black center, from which you will see a center line and tail form. Within a week or so, you may see the developing tads wriggle around a bit inside the gel. I think it's best to separate the infertile eggs and discard them so their molding away doesn't affect the others. This can be pretty tricky because the gel is so sticky. A clean razor blade may help.
This is just my experience with the azureus, but I've found that leaving the eggs where they are for a few days before removing them to raise yourself seems to improve their chances. The dad will take care of them and keep them moist. I think this contact probably discourages fungus attacks, which seems to be the main problem in getting the eggs to the hatching stage.
Although the tinctorius males do care for the eggs and transport the tads to a waterway in the wild, I don't think this works very well in captivity. With the azureus, I usually cut off the section of leaf the eggs are on and very gently scrape the developing eggs off into a deli-cup or petri dish, keeping them in the same orientation, right side up. I prefer a somewhat deeper deli-cup to a petri dish. I rinse them off a bit with some water with black water extract and just a little methylene blue added, then leave them just barely damp until most of the "yolk" portion of the developing tads has been diminished and they seem to be ready for leaving the gel. Then I gradually increase the amount of water, but not quite enough to cover the eggs entirely until they seem to be breaking through the gel. When the appear to be emerging, I increase the water depth to fully cover them, and at this time, add some Java moss.
If you have more than one tadpole, you should separate them as they emerge into different deli-cups, as I understand the tinc tads are cannibalistic. (I don't separate the azureus however, and they've never seemed to bother each other.) You can feed them with a variety of foods that should include algaes such as spirulina and chlorella. The commercial Frog & tadpole bites, tropical fish flake are other additions and options. I use a turkey baster to partially change the water and suck up the detritus every couple of days. "Instant Amazon" black water extract, just enough to barely color the water a light tan, seems to have added a great deal to successful hatching out and subsequent raising. Some people use tadpole tea made from soaking oak leaves in water.
This is just what was eventually successful for me, not necessarily the only way to do it. It's also a lot more information than you asked for--sorry about that-- I get carried away.
Good luck and enjoy your own experiences, and be sure to keep sharing them.
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Patty
Pahsimeroi, Idaho
D. auratus blue
D. galactonotus pumpkin orange splash back
D. imitator
D. leucomelas
D. pumilio Bastimentos
D. fantasticus
P. terribilis mint and organe
D. reticulatus
D. castaneoticus
D. azureus
P vittatus
P. lugubris