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My Leo has a strange habit of not eating certain Crickets. How do i know which ones? Let me explain. I dust my Cickets with calcium and Vit every 3 days and in between i just put in undusted Crickets. I have noticed lately that the undusted ones are not all being eaten but when i put in the dusted ones my Leo will hunt them down and eat them all up in one sitting. She is eating the undusted ones but not all of them. Has anyone come across this strage activity with there Leo's. Has she become a Vit junky

Leo's beeing nocturnal crave alot of supliments naturaly, so you will notice your Leo lick everything one for a sense of taste and two to see if there is any calcium.

Dont worry about the habit, it may be a good one just try to keep it eating period. Have you experimented this with wax worms or anything else. Maybe a few of the waxies once in a while.

I was given her meal/wax worms as a treat every now and then but she wasnt to pushed to be honest. When the crix go in she goes wild and eats them up straight away. From someone who lost a Gecko due to not eating its a joy to watch her in full flow.

Ok then if she is turning down wax worms there might be issues.

First I see the bark chips, get rid of them. They may have impacted her or have created other problems for her. She might be slowly lacking proper nurishments which is why she only takes to suplimented foods. Sometimes animals know more than you think about how to handle on their own.

no offense but your friend dont appear to be the healthiest Leo's I have seen I can blame this for sure on the Bark.

tell me, what is the day and night time temps?

The tank is set up with a red heat lamp at one end (12 Hours on, 12 off) and UTH on the other end. Heat lamp end temp ranges from 88-90 and on the UTH end it ranges from 70-72. Humidity ranges from 50-60%. Temps and humidity are fine and i do not take offence to you suggesting that she looks unhealthy. I fully blame the Pic as i took her to the vet a couple of weeks ago as i could not remove some skin on her toe and the Vet said she was a very lively and healty Leo. Her weight is well up and her tail is larger by the day. The wood chips have not been an issue either as i normally watch her eat and when she strikes and (At Times) cathces some bark she spits it out.

Ok, here is some advice you should take but dont get mad if you dont like what you hear.

She is under weight, the chips besides impaction can cause some problems like bacterial growth and certain dust that can be bad for it as well.

I strongly suggest she be kept for a while on paper towels and the humidity droped even lower than that. IMO that is still to high.

start introduceing other foods while introduceing crickets just cut back more and more on the crickets, also make sure that the other items are dusted with calcium and vitamins ( not both at the same time) when ever feeding. You didnt mention a calcium dish, put a small dish of calcium in her tank she will eat from it and later most likely start eating non dusted foods. Leo's forage for calcium in the wild, its in a Leo's nature to look for it. Also make sure it has clean water to drink from, I have seen some Leos and other reptiles for some reason start to reject other foods that they took on a daily bassis just because of not haveing enough water but still eat the crickets.

Now this is just my suggestion's I have been keeping Leo's for a long time and have had complete succes over 10 years or more I have never had a Leo fall ill or die, only had some common shedding problems once in a while,... and keep this in mind.

I never discriminate a Leo because of where it is sold, I have taken some leo's that looked like death on the doorsteps and made them something worth living.

your gecko is looking fine ... she/he just needs to boost up her tail a bit .. they store all there enery in there tails .. get her tail nice and fat k ? ..

as long as he/she sheds in her hide and is taken to a rep vet and they say shes doing good well and i see you have done just that your being a good gecko parent .
and make sure the shed is all off your gecko ( if you never see any shed then thats a good thing too hehe ..

i feed alaways crickets ... my geckos dont really like mealies i try to feed them every once in awhile though .. but i dont try wax worms becuase they can get addicted .

yeah i would suggest to take the bark out even though most of the time they dont get impacted ...
but thats your choice too i cant tell you what to do either
sand is a not so good choice either i use tile or paper towels THEY WORK WONDERS .

your temps look fine too .

good luck

OK..........

1:..sand is not so bad unless the Leo is not so healthy, you would rather use that than the bark. But I agree paper towels do work the best if you dont know what you are doing. I raise all mine on it and at the time they become adults I switch to sand with lots of decor covering most sand.

2:..again, that Leo is a bit thin no matter how you look at it, it reminds me more of a Chinese Leopard Gecko and i doubt its that it is impacted it just needs to be fattend up.
( NO OFFENSE )

3:..please take my advice, try wax worms on occasion, the animal only gets addicted if it is used as a staple no insectivore should eat just crickets.

4:.. back to crickets. Crickets are the worst thing for the animal to eat, you must gutload them with lots of veggies, you must take them out if it dont eat them and re gutload them within 24 hours or they are useless and have no nutritional value, and if they are left in the cage for to long they are actualy dirty little bugs that end up eating what your Leo leaves behind. Thats not healthy get them started on mealies or supers.

This is my advice, Im not lectureing you, you can take it or not but I do suggest considering it.

This is how a typical Leo should look. GOOD LUCK!

>>OK..........
>>
>> 1:..sand is not so bad unless the Leo is not so healthy, you would rather use that than the bark. But I agree paper towels do work the best if you dont know what you are doing. I raise all mine on it and at the time they become adults I switch to sand with lots of decor covering most sand.
>>
>> 2:..again, that Leo is a bit thin no matter how you look at it, it reminds me more of a Chinese Leopard Gecko and i doubt its that it is impacted it just needs to be fattend up.
>> ( NO OFFENSE )
>>
>> 3:..please take my advice, try wax worms on occasion, the animal only gets addicted if it is used as a staple no insectivore should eat just crickets.
>>
>> 4:.. back to crickets. Crickets are the worst thing for the animal to eat, you must gutload them with lots of veggies, you must take them out if it dont eat them and re gutload them within 24 hours or they are useless and have no nutritional value, and if they are left in the cage for to long they are actualy dirty little bugs that end up eating what your Leo leaves behind. Thats not healthy get them started on mealies or supers.
>>
>>This is my advice, Im not lectureing you, you can take it or not but I do suggest considering it.
>>
>>
>>This is how a typical Leo should look. GOOD LUCK!

First of all lay off her or him. Sand is horrible for most species but everybody IF YOU READ THE WARNINGS THAT WE POST ON KINGSNAKE THAT SAYS Sand should not be used for Leos under 6".
Crickets are very bad,true. But some geckos prefer them over others. I personally feed my Leos mealworms as a staple and the occasional pink or waxworms(When I say waxworms 1-2 MAX). I only feed crickets to my beardies and I HATE Crickets still.They Escape,eat gecko poo,etc. AND PLEASE GET YOUR GECKO OFF THOSE CHIPS!!! THATS EVEN WORSE THEN SAND!!! Ive been into herps for about 8 years and have had Leos for about 6. So listen to my warning if you dont want a dead gecko in a few months get her/him off those chips. If you must have chips get Aspen bedding or Sani-Chips(Im not recommending it). I personally prefer Paper-Towels or Newspaper but Noobies always love to have an attractive cage. Please you can have an attractive cage with beautiful hides and decor. But Bedding or Diet please dont argue with us. BOTH OF YOU ARE ACTING VERY IMMATURE!!! ...Just my 2 cents.

There is no way she is under weight my friend and as i have stated previously the Pic angle is what gives this impression. She eats on average 7/10 crickets per day and her tail is very large. She is healthy, lively and very responsive. You state that sand is OK but from what i have read and heard on this Forum in the past this is the worst subtrate to put in a tank. Also you state ''Crickets are the worst thing for the animal to eat''. Im sorry but are you sure you keep Leo's as this is the first time i have ever heard that they are worst thing for them to eat. Also the recommended Humidity for a Leo is between 40-60 and as mine is normally bewteen 50-60 i find your advice on this also very strange.This is a forum and you are entitled to your opinion but at this stage i would not be taking any of your advice as i deem it dangerous. All animals are different and some same species will act differently to others so to brand mine unhealthy is an insult when you are clearly giving bad advice.

You are nuts!!!! That Leo is skinny buddy go to a real shop get some real advice I had been doing this for a long time, oh well its not my Leo thats in jeopardy.

Also you say it is at a bad angle, well how many shots do you take at bad angles? It is clear you are very young and cant take proper advice as it comes across to you as criticism.

Another, you took it to the vet for shedding? Liar, how much did it cost you? What did he tell you to do? Why, just for shedding?

I was helping you but you took offense to something that was only ment to help benefit your pet and answer your question. I have plenty of leopard geckos all healthy, eat lots of different insects and feedre foods, never had one die on me cause it wouldnt eat, hatched a few eggs from my prize Leos as well.

Seeing on how the other person had to tell you about proper thermoregulation, I dont think you should be makeing statments like the one you made to me friend, I dont even think at this point you should be keeping reptiles till you read a bit more, or take some more trips to the vet. I got a little in depth for a novice to understand apparently, but I had no idea that novice wasnt keeping a cold blooded animal warm. Now I wonder what all could be wrong with it after that was made clear.??????

Sand, do some more reading retart. Sand is bad for juvies, I despised sand till I got over the fact that there isnt ebnough paper towels in Afghanistan for the people to use let alone wild animals.

A animal in the health conditions as yours would sureley ingest sand and not properly digest it and become impacted.

A animal in proper health would be able to pass sand as a adult.

Where the hell are you getting info about feeding it? Pet CO?

Crickets as I state are bad for a few reasons, when properly gutloaded and made sure to be gutloaded the are good but other feeder insects have a variety of nourishment at any time wich is what makes crickets the least most healthy or the "worst".

Get real then challange me.
My oldest after shedding about to turn 17 years old, excuse the tail I bought nim off of a inexperienced dealer.hmmmm
My yougest, about 1 and a half years old.

These 2 are my addopted Leo's got them in worst condition than yours.

Many others have come and gone to friends relatives and others that KNOW how to take care of them.

Now that you got me off to a bad start, sorry everyone Im not this bad of a person. I just take the work I have been doing for a long time serious, kingsnake is a good site and I wont doubt anyones know how I was a member about 5 years ago or more I know the whole sand deal and I have bad mouthed a few people my self cause of it, but I realized after trial and no error that what I am doing is just fine.

I can take some shots from any angle as well if you like.

Hold up there sailor. I think you need to get out more.

Thank you but why do you say that, is that all you have.

I guess so, so now I can assume I proved myself correct.

I get out in fact I talk over the boards at work, while enjoying a day at the park, while haveing coffe at starbucks, just like now Im waiting for my Mocha.

Hey mate all i was doing was pointing out some ''errors'' in your e-mail. Just becasue you say put them on sand doesnt mean that is correct. I have read on here from dozens of people that sand is ok, sand is not ok, bark is ok, bark is not ok. I clearly pointed out that what was working for me was bark and that i made an of the cuff remark that my leo is not into meal or waxworms. (he does eat them but he would rather crickets)This is when you decided that i was ill treating my leo. The pics you show of you Leo's are what you regard as healthy right? If so then i am doing ok as mine look in proportion to yours. I have a friend who has had a leo for going on 14 years now and he has him on sand, feeds it only crickets (With no vitamins or calcium) and gives it regular water from a tap (Which i have also read is a no go) but his Leo is a monster. So i will point out once again that not all species react the same. I enjoy this forum and i have learned a lot from it but this is the first time i have seen someone (or been) attacked on it. Enjoy your mocha

Ahh ..yahwn...did you not state even in the title that your leo is only eating crikets ( in other words)? I assumed this botherd you did it not?

I gave it my best not to offend you but in the end you took it that way, I have not attacked you I stood up for myself, sand is bad for people that dont know what they are doing but bark is death period. My youngest get paper towels and my 17 year old is back on them to for the last 3 years. My middle aged guys are enjoying a natural habitat and alot of quality care. You see, only less than 25% of the cage they live in is made up of sand the rest is rocks and drift wood covering most of that sand.

Your Leo does not look anywhere near as good as mine again no offense I thought you needed help, is that not what you wanted before you attacked me? And yes I have made it clear that I wasnt trying to attack or offend you but you are the one attacking and trying your best to offend me. Im ignoreing you now cause it upsets me when I see people ask for help or advice, not take it and then say they are doing everything fine when in the first place they have seem to be asking for help anyway.

For your Leos sake I hope you see the light that I am trying to shed but seeing on how you are obviously ignorant to facts and heat lights that help produce proper "thermal regulation" I doubt that will hapen your just left in the dark and so is that poor leo apparently. Maybe your friend will end up with him anyway, that I see hapening.

BTW the Mocha was great. Now reading your post makes me tired enough to have another, maybe with more shots of espreso this time to wake me up.

I now understand why you have not been on this forum for 5 years.

I dont remember stateing that I got ingaged, had a kid and moved out on my own...thats funny, I mean that is my reason.

Oh yeah thats right I gotta ignore you.

Parasites, when a Leo has trouble keeping fat in its tail ( this is what is actualy in its tail), it is usualy parasites feeding of from it.

Very common, caused by the pores in the "bark" helping to harbor them.

Ok Im going to add my 2 cents now. I dont beleive that crix are a bad food for geckos but giving them a varied diet is definitly a good thing.
This is my main concern for your leo and that is the temps? Do you run the lamp at night and if so is there a hide on that side of the tank?
The reason I ask is that leos are nocturnal creatures by nature and I imagine tht you feed them in the evening or the night time hours. That is when the leo needs the 88-90 degree temps to digest its food. Also the heat helps to stimulate his eating aswell. If I were you I would keep the UTH in the 88-90 degree range 24/7 and use the lamp for keeping up ambient air temps. If you keep an area that will always be in that 88-90 degree range he will always have a place to thermo regulate for health and digestive purposes.

Good luck!

M
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Mike & Wendy

1.0.0 Siberian Husky
0.0.1 RTB
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.1.0 Leopard Gecko
1.0.0 Beardie
3.1.0 Future Herper's

Hi Mike & Wendy
I keep the lamp on from 8am-8pm and the UTH on 24-7. The area where the lamp is sits at 88-90F and the UTH is normally in around 75F. Do you suggest that i leave the heat lamp on from Evening until morning (8PM-8AM). I normally feed her in the evening between 7-8.
Thanks

Yes in my opinon yes. They need that higher heat to be able to properly digest there food and stimulate there eating response. That is true with any reptile that I have studied. The best thing to do IMO is to like i said keep that UTH at the 88 - 90 degree temps all the time and use your heat lamp for ambient air temps. If you do that I dont think that you will ever have to worry about any weird feeding habits and the leo will always have a good source to thermo regulate. Maybe read some more caresheets and decide for yourself if that would be the best idea but IMO man I would defintitly provide those higher temps all the time!

M
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Mike & Wendy

1.0.0 Siberian Husky
0.0.1 RTB
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.1.0 Leopard Gecko
1.0.0 Beardie
3.1.0 Future Herper's

So you suggest that i leave the heat lamp on from 8PM-8AM and the UTH on all day as normal? I have read that for some reason the red lamp does not confuse them between night and day as the heat lamp i have is red). She sits in her hide all day (Normal) and under the hide is subtrate and then the UTH. The heat lamp is at the opposite end of my 2 and a half foot tank. This temp above the UTH is always nice and warm so what you are suggesting makes sense in the fact that i leave the heat lamp on all night 8PM-8AM. Please can you confirm i have got it right this time.
Thanks

Sounds good as long as the heat lamp does not make it to hot.

I know that what i am proposing to you is totally different then what oyu are doing now but I am just trying ot help out so that your leo will eat on a constant basis.

Here is what i suggest:
Hot/Warm Side:
UTH kept in the 88 - 90 degree range 24 hours a day. This will allow your leo to constantly have a spot to thermoregulate, and digest its food, stimulate feeding response. This is the most important husbandry aspect IMO. A hide and a moist hide should be provided here.

On the other side of the tank will be your cool side. A place for your leo to go to cool down when thermoregulating. Temps should be High 70's to low 80's. Ahide should be here.

For a leo they are nocturnal. They receive most of there heat from there bellies. This is why I suggest this method. A heat lamp may not even be needed depending on how warm or cold your house is. That i can not answer for you.

M
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Mike & Wendy

1.0.0 Siberian Husky
0.0.1 RTB
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.1.0 Leopard Gecko
1.0.0 Beardie
3.1.0 Future Herper's

Hi Mike
This is the setup i have.
UTH side is between 88-90 24/7. There is a hide and humid hide on this side. Humidity on this side ranges beween 40-60%.
On the other end of the tank I have the heat lamp coming on at night from 7PM-7AM. Temp ranges from 78-84 on this side. There is also a hide on this side. Humidity on this side is below 30%. This is where im confused at the moment. What IYO is the best humidity range and how do i sustain it at both ends.
Thanks

sounds awesome! I would not worry to much about humidity as these guys live in dry climates. as long as you keep the humid hide humid and a bowl of water your good. occasionaly we mist our tanks once every couple days.
thats about all u need to do. maybe some others could chime in on this.

like i said tho humidity is not really a big concern. i would worry more about it being to high.

M
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Mike & Wendy

1.0.0 Siberian Husky
0.0.1 RTB
0.0.1 Ball Python
1.1.0 Leopard Gecko
1.0.0 Beardie
3.1.0 Future Herper's