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I know, I know. Hot rocks are bad. I'm just asking because I happen to already have one that was given to me. I was wondering if it can be altered at all to make safer, maybe by covering it with thick cloth or something. I just moved my corn to a bigger cage and the light bulb's heat dosn't get all the way to the bottom of the tank. I'd like to be able to use the heat rock(since I already have it) until I can get a UTH. I looked around for a human heating pad (they're way less expensive), but they all automatically turn off after a few hours.
If anyone knows of how I could make the hot rock safer or where I can get a UTH (or human heating pad) for a good price, I'd appriciate the info.

The only way that I know of to make heat rocks safe is to cut of the cord.

It would be a better idea to put in a branch so that the snake can get higher in the cage to bask closer to the light.

>>The only way that I know of to make heat rocks safe is to cut of the cord.
Not True
First, I am NOT a hot rock fan. So, The first "hot rock" that I recall around 1976 was a red brick, with a v shaped space inside. Easy to drill into from the end and place a ceramic resistor. (the size I will not note). The brick did not have as many hot spot issues. In fact I do not recall any, but that is not to say they were perfect. I use to make my own. 2 resistors in a mold about 8"x14"x3", placing resistors near the bottom. A local well known breeder took the idea and use to also make some out of artificial rocks. Most worked very well, for a rock. Again as I recall. My rocks were not pretty and not nearly as hot. New rocks are plastic and do not diffuse the heat evenly like the natural stone or brick material. Hence hot spots.
But hot rocks also do not create a nice gradient heat pattern. To me, this is more important They just heat their spot for the most part. I feel the same for UTHs unless inside a rack. In a rack, and UTH in the rear, the heat flows to the front opening. helping in a must better heat pattern.
Under an actual tank, they tend to heat their spot(unless under old slate bottoms). PLEASE this is extremely extraordinarily variable,(2 bits to Tim),, depending on your setup. But I think you get the idea. I use to use 9" cheapo ceramic tiles, in the tank, over the UTH. 2 per 20 gallon tank. The tile helps pull the heat in a gradient pattern that is longer than without.

All that said, lights work better. Buy 100 watt bulbs and run on dimmers. Turn "on" using the dimmer. Running a bulb at 90% may double life the span of the bulb. 80% even more.
This is due to a bulb using about 8 times the power for a micro second as it turns on. That's why most bulbs burn out when you turn them on. FACT

>>It would be a better idea to put in a branch so that the snake can get higher in the cage to bask closer to the light.
Absolutely totally agree. Three zone layout. Warm: (bottom away from bulb), warmer: (under the bulb on the tank bottom), warmest" (on the rising branch at a safe distance from the bulb.

The heat guru
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.herpzilla.com

hey there.....First let me say that hot rocks are bad regardless of how you try to make them safer for your pet. the cloth could also get to hot and catch on fire, you have no way of regulating it. I would get that UTH as soon as possible and ditch the heat rock. just cut the cord off it so that you wont be tempted to use it anyway, put the rock in the tank if you must, just don't connect it!

The human heating pad is another dangerous item to put in with your snake and here's a story as to why. I found this on the general snakes forum here and decided to repost it. View it there if you must, but it teaches a lesson some would rather learn from him than from first hand experience.

Electrical heating pad can cause burns...

Posted by: aleut at Thu Apr 26 01:48:22 2007 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ]

I am grief-stricken. My daughter just called me to tell me that her sweet Ball Python, Jake, had passed away. He was burned when the electrical heating pad in his aquarium SHORTED OUT due to moisture accumulation (condensation from humidity). The burn never completely healed, despite diligent medical care by my daughter and the attending vets. Jake finally died of kidney failure. PLEASE, PLEASE don't place an electrical heating pad inside your snake's habitat. The vet told my daughter his office sees this type of injury ALL THE TIME due to new owners not understanding the risks posed by these dam* cheap heating pads. I decided to pay tribute to Jake by posting this warning/reminder to all snake owners. May you and your precious pet enjoy abundant health and well-being.

>>hey there.....First let me say that hot rocks are bad regardless of how you try to make them safer for your pet. the cloth could also get to hot and catch on fire, you have no way of regulating it. I would get that UTH as soon as possible and ditch the heat rock. just cut the cord off it so that you wont be tempted to use it anyway, put the rock in the tank if you must, just don't connect it!
>>
>>The human heating pad is another dangerous item to put in with your snake and here's a story as to why. I found this on the general snakes forum here and decided to repost it. View it there if you must, but it teaches a lesson some would rather learn from him than from first hand experience.
>>
>>Electrical heating pad can cause burns...
>>
>>Posted by: aleut at Thu Apr 26 01:48:22 2007 [ Report Abuse ] [ Email Message ]
>>
>>I am grief-stricken. My daughter just called me to tell me that her sweet Ball Python, Jake, had passed away. He was burned when the electrical heating pad in his aquarium SHORTED OUT due to moisture accumulation (condensation from humidity). The burn never completely healed, despite diligent medical care by my daughter and the attending vets. Jake finally died of kidney failure. PLEASE, PLEASE don't place an electrical heating pad inside your snake's habitat. The vet told my daughter his office sees this type of injury ALL THE TIME due to new owners not understanding the risks posed by these dam* cheap heating pads. I decided to pay tribute to Jake by posting this warning/reminder to all snake owners. May you and your precious pet enjoy abundant health and well-being.
>>

That's because the idiot put the heat pad IN the tank.
You use it UNDER the tank.
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

yes he did put it IN the tank but I hadn't seen where this person had said either way. I still wouldnt recommend using it under the tank either. I would still go by the safe method and just use what you know works. Didn't mean to step on toes jimmy

Any electrical heating device can cause burns...can short out etc. Human heating pads, just like under tank heat pads for aquariums and heat tape, have to be regulated by a thermostat, so they do not get over hot. Also, these devices can't be boxed in so tight there is no air flow around them, else they do tend to over heat and short out, crack aquarium glass etc.

Most human heating pads can tolerate moisture, unless it was an old one, but they cannot be crushed in any way, you can't have the weight of a tank, especially wood or glass, or a tank with a heavy snake in it (over 10 pounds) as this can damage the electrical wiring inside the heating pad. Most reptile/aquarium heating pads designed for use under the tank, don't have the same sort of electrical components. Feel the human heating pad and you will find lumps and bumps all over the place, those are resistors and wires. Feel a made for reptiles heating pad, and its smooth. Even then, shouldn't be underneath a tank in such a way there is no air flow (ie sandwiched between the tank and a shelf). Under tank stick them on the bottom of an aquarium are more designed for the frame supporting stands, which allow air flow to the bottom of the tank, hence why they have ahesize on one side, so you can stick them to the bottom of the tank but one side of the pad is exposed to air.

Propping up the end of the tank where the undertank goes, ensures air flow...doesn't have to be a huge space but should be at least a quarter inch.

Back to the heat rock. Unless it is one of the newer Zoo Med heat rocks with a built in thermostat...don't use it. The older ones are notorious to shorting out, giving uneven heating and if the rock isnt' big enough, doesn't provide a good enough surface for your snake to coil on.

If you need more heat from your lamp, buy a higher wattage bulb. Or just buy a ceramic heat emitter. Or order what you need online if you have no pet stores in your area.
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PHLdyPayne

>>Any electrical heating device can cause burns...can short out etc. Human heating pads, just like under tank heat pads for aquariums and heat tape, have to be regulated by a thermostat, so they do not get over hot. Also, these devices can't be boxed in so tight there is no air flow around them, else they do tend to over heat and short out, crack aquarium glass etc.
>>
>>Most human heating pads can tolerate moisture, unless it was an old one, but they cannot be crushed in any way, you can't have the weight of a tank, especially wood or glass, or a tank with a heavy snake in it (over 10 pounds) as this can damage the electrical wiring inside the heating pad. Most reptile/aquarium heating pads designed for use under the tank, don't have the same sort of electrical components. Feel the human heating pad and you will find lumps and bumps all over the place, those are resistors and wires. Feel a made for reptiles heating pad, and its smooth. Even then, shouldn't be underneath a tank in such a way there is no air flow (ie sandwiched between the tank and a shelf). Under tank stick them on the bottom of an aquarium are more designed for the frame supporting stands, which allow air flow to the bottom of the tank, hence why they have ahesize on one side, so you can stick them to the bottom of the tank but one side of the pad is exposed to air.
>>
>>Propping up the end of the tank where the undertank goes, ensures air flow...doesn't have to be a huge space but should be at least a quarter inch.
>>
>>Back to the heat rock. Unless it is one of the newer Zoo Med heat rocks with a built in thermostat...don't use it. The older ones are notorious to shorting out, giving uneven heating and if the rock isnt' big enough, doesn't provide a good enough surface for your snake to coil on.
>>
>>If you need more heat from your lamp, buy a higher wattage bulb. Or just buy a ceramic heat emitter. Or order what you need online if you have no pet stores in your area.
>>-----
>>PHLdyPayne

I have ceramic heat emitters.You have to really be careful with them because even the smallest size can heat a small tank to over 140 degrees.Ive only used them for bearded dragons in a 55 long.It kept the basking site at 109 degrees.
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If lead paint is so deadly why do they make it so delicious?

UNDER tank heat pads are safe.. assuming you put the pad UNDER the tank

>>UNDER tank heat pads are safe.. assuming you put the pad UNDER the tank

I'm not sure anything is 100% safe? My first female ball python was a burn victom from an UTH. She was a big girl well over 4'. I think in her case, she moved all substrate, covered the entire spot of the UTH, and the heat built up. Not like iguanas I see stuck to plastic hot hots, but a burn.
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.herpzilla.com

You know what Tom.. you are correct..

Insstead of saying UTH is safe.. I should have wrote that in most cases UTH is "Safer" than using hot rocks..

I would also reccomend using a helix temp controller to maintain proper temps..

~ Mike Russo

>>You know what Tom.. you are correct..
>>
>>Instead of saying UTH is safe.. I should have wrote that in most cases UTH is "Safer" than using hot rocks..

No biggie, no one can plan for all unknown circumstances.
And they are pretty safe. I'm not herp expert, but I have had more experience in building stuff. Most unherp related, but LOTS of experience in experimenting with stuff.
I wish the critter style tanks would change the bottom material. Something with more heat conductive properties. While I'm on a wish list an incandescent fixture with a built in dimmer. Just buy 100 watt bulbs, for simple setups and dimmer to needs.

Hmmm, 1 more thing, while on the bulb topic. And I know I have mentioned this before, but many new people. I have used regular house bulbs and used red engine high temp spray paint. Black does not cover. let the bulb run for a week or 2 even to off gas and "cure paint". I had visions of making these, but things are not falling into place yet. Anywho, if you know electricity a little, wire up to bulb sockets in series run the painted bulbs at 1/2 voltage not to wear them out, but to warm them up to cure the paint. $0.25 a bulb, at least 10 bulbs per $5 paint can $7.50 for 10 bulbs.
A bulb is just heat, some may say infra-red, but I question that.

I'm good at finding cheap alternative ways to market hype items. Grind your own mulch, fancy hide boxes from molding plaster, I have a killer tank lid idea, I just wish I could get on to doing some of my ideas. Willing to pass most along.

>>I would also reccomend using a helix temp controller to maintain proper temps..

Abstotively,,, nothing better than a good stat.

>>~ Mike Russo
>>
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.herpzilla.com

>>yes he did put it IN the tank but I hadn't seen where this person had said either way. I still wouldnt recommend using it under the tank either. I would still go by the safe method and just use what you know works. Didn't mean to step on toes jimmy

Oh I definitely understand.

I personally have taken the risk and used human heat pads for five or six years, but it definitely isn't the first thing I would recommend. I also have them between the bottom of the tank and a sheet of thin aluminum. I work in stell fabrication so it is easy for me to get aluminum to use a barrier between tanks and wood.

I use heat pads for some enclosures, UTH's for some, lighting for a few and heat tape for racks. I have a few 10 gallon tanks with yearlings in them and a 40 watt bulb will heat them sufficiently.

my point, although a little too blunt, was if you're going to use them, use them right. I don't like any heat source INSIDE an enclosure.
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

I agree completely, I don't like any heat source inside my tank either, at the moment my UTH is working fine but if it ever does foul, I still don't think I would feel confident enough or safe enough to use my own heating pad. Plus well I need that lol. Anyway, just my two cents......Izora

I am surprised to see that nobody recomended a rheostat or dimmer thus far..... For the most part heat rocks are crap. I do know that exo-terra makes one that regulates it's temperature and has an automatic shutoff if it gets to warm. The way it basically works is that it heats up until it reaches 105 degrees. It then regulates down to 95, and then down to 85, and then back up to 105, etc. It is still a little warm but at least it is a step in the right direction...
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.1 Snow Corn "Hope"
1. Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Chunk" (Goonies)
.1 Orange Albino Black Ratsnake "Peaches"
.1 MO Locale Black Ratsnake "Molly" (Flogging Molly)

"Have you ever tried simply turning off the T.V., sitting down with your kids... and hitting them?"

I have to agree with Garweft that the only way to make a hotrock safe is to cut the cord off...

ok ok. I get the idea. hot rocks are bad. I just want to find a way to make it safe and useable (if its possible). If I put it under the tank (with the tank raised for air flow) and where the tank is not directly touching it, could it be ok?
I'm just asking, I'm not going to do it if its too dangerous.
I did a little experiment, just to see how hot it really gets (though I'm not sure about how accurate it is). I put two thick, tight socks over the hot rock and put a thermometer in them, between the socks and the rock with the end of the thermometer on the hottest spot. After one hour the thermometer read 110 degrees.
Don't get mad at me or anything for not dropping the hot rock thing. I'm just wondering if It can be made safe. I will not use it if I can't.

PLEASE toss the hot rock. A reptile of yours will thank you.
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.herpzilla.com