Reptile & Amphibian Forums

OK I'm going this weekend to buy my nephew his first corn and I'm curious as what would be the best morph. I have heard that it's common for bloods to have eating issues, and other morphs have their problems, so what is the most simple? I know he's got his heart set on an amel, so we'll probably end up with one, I'm just curious as to what some common problems are with the different morphs. I've never ever had a problem with Frosty, he's never turned down a meal even while shedding. Sometimes it's hard to tell he's shedding because he doesnt change a dull color like most of my past snakes have. although he does get quite a bit lighter when he removes his skin. Anyway, just a curious question.

I've never heard of any issues with amel's if they were not any other morphs also. ie no other morph imposing problems associated with that morph. Honestly I would be really surprised if there were any issues with an amel that isn't anything else since the amel trait has been arround for so incredibly long compared to most morphs. And because it has been outcrossed for various projects so much that unless you get an amel that the selling breeder inbred you should have a fairly healthy genetic background animal.

Truth be told however I have not heard of much trouble from any type of cornsnake morph so I wouldn't worry overly. Just make sure the snake has a appropriate home waiting for it before hand and that it's new owner knows how to take care of it, including getting help if things don't look right.

Sean.

Yes, although there have been a few feeding issues associated with a couple morphs in the past(blood-red, Miami, etc..) It really boils down to the individual snake.
And also like you stated, some will "scarf down" a rodent from your hand while in full "shed-mode" with their eyes completely
white, while others won't even LOOK at a meal while in "blue"!

At a good sized show, there will be tons of different types of corn!, so look for one that has some size and girth to it, and a fresh lump from a recent meal is a great indicator of a hatchling
that has a good established feeding response!

Also, you might want to get an established yearling that isn't quite so "fragile" and would be a little more "handleable" and resilient, since it will be handled by a child most of the time.

try to avoid the "runts" that are very thin, and have extremely skinny necks........and are noticeably smaller than the other siblings. Just use some basic common sense strategy, and you should come out of there with a nice, healthy snake.

best regards, ~Doug

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"Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!"

>>OK I'm going this weekend to buy my nephew his first corn and I'm curious as what would be the best morph. I have heard that it's common for bloods to have eating issues, and other morphs have their problems, so what is the most simple? I know he's got his heart set on an amel, so we'll probably end up with one, I'm just curious as to what some common problems are with the different morphs. I've never ever had a problem with Frosty, he's never turned down a meal even while shedding. Sometimes it's hard to tell he's shedding because he doesnt change a dull color like most of my past snakes have. although he does get quite a bit lighter when he removes his skin. Anyway, just a curious question.

I think if he wants an amel you might want to go with a "special" or selective bred amel such as a candy cane or reverse okeetee.
Otherwise I really don't feel you will have any outstanding issues with any morph you choose, especially if you get a well established specimen.
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

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This time of year, many people have yearlings and all are well-established. I'd look for an amel het for something else(which most are), and showing at least a little yellow.
Amels are usually pretty and impressive. It's hard to go wrong with them.
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V.P.
Austin Herp. Soc.