Reptile & Amphibian Forums

My daughter bought a dwarf sun gazer yesterday she was sold only a Arcadia Fluorescent Lighting Controller/Light Starter Unit,light,hide,water,bowl,vitamins and drops for water.

As for heat mat and Spotlamp Holder Fitting, Cable & Plug were bought weeks before. shop owner where we got lizard from said we dont need a basking light or dimming thermostat as in her words a Fluorescent Lighting light is cheaper & better and to feed 12 brown crickets every day 6 in morning & 6 at night.

I though it strange so i went to another shop they told me i need a Dimming Thermostat (for bulbs) Habistat plus basking light can you help so i can sort this out asap

I've kept this species for years...and this is how I do it...
I have an aquarium (about 30" long by 12" wide by 12" high) with a screen lid.

Over one end I have placed a regular incandescent light bulb housed in a metal hood. The wattage used is determined by the temperature it produces....you want the basking spot to be about 25C. Placing the bulb over one end allows for a warm end and a cooler end to the tank.

Along the length of the tank, I have placed a UVB tube light.

I have a rock under the spot (incandescent)light so that the lizard can get up close, but not so close that it can hang on the lid of the cage and get burned.

In the warm area I have a hide and in the cool area I have another...so they can choose.

I have a water dish in the cage and I change the water daily. I have a small yogurt container with a tiny hole in it over the water dish so that it drips and gets their attention. They are thirsty lizards and readily race over to the dish to drink every day when the dripper is running.

I feed them gutloaded crickets, waxworms, small superworms, etc. They love the waxworms and they don't seem to be affected by the fatty content of them like some lizards are...but I still go easy on them.

I dust the insects before feeding them to the lizards with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at most feedings. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. so this helps to make up for it.

I dust the insects with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A about twice a month. Beta carotene sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system, but preformed vitamin A can...and it causes problems.

I also dust lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month. D3 from supplements can build up in the system too...so don't overdo it.

If the husbandry is right, these little lizards can live to be over 15 years old.

These are livebearers and this is baby season...so if by chance you have a female...don't be surprised if you soon have a pair of babies!

If you have any other questions just ask.

Hi!

As also a long-term Cordylid keeper-breeder I want to add some info, but firstly want to know what the exact species You both reffering to. Does that dwarf sungazer is Cordylus tropidosternum or C. cataphractus?
Depending on the species they need a different care.
Any photos would be appreciated!