Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I GOT MY 3 MONTH OLD BALL ABOUT A MONTH AGO. I HAD BEEN TOLD THEY WERE VERY CALM, FRIENDLY SNAKES. I HAD A GREAT PLAINS RAT FOR ABOUT A MONTH BEFORE TRADING IT IN FOR THE BALL. THE RAT WAS NON AGGRESSIVE BUT MOVED CONSTANTLY. THE BALL HAS BECOME VERY AGGRESSIVE AND ALWAYS STRIKES AT MY FACE. I HANDLE HER WITH EXTREME CARE AND MAKE SURE NO ACTIVITIES TAKE PLACE AROUND HER CAGE (40 GAL) OR WHEN SHE IS BEING HELD. IS IT GOOD OR BAD TO HAVE A HIDING PLACE? SHE HAS ONE NOW. I GOT IT WHEN I HAD THE RATSNAKE AND SHE CHANGED A LITTLE AFTER IT WAS INTRODUCED. I FEED THE BALL TWICE A WEEK BECAUSE WHEN I MENTIONED HER BEHAVIOR TO THE SHOP I GOT HER FROM THEY SAID THAT WOULD FIX. I HOLD HER EVERY OTHER DAY FROM A FEW MINUTES TO 30 MINUTES.

PLEASE TELL ME IF I'M DOING SOMETHING WRONG OR IF I JUST HAVE AN UNCHARACTERISTICLY BAD BALL PYTHON.

ONCE WHEN I PUT HER BACK IN HER CAGE SHE RAISED HER HEAD AND MOVED IT SIDE TO SIDE. IT WAS THE SAME MOTION THAT I SAW A COBRA DO TO A MONGOOSE ON TV WHEN THE MONGOOSE CAME TO EAT THE COBRAS EGGS.

wow the caps hurt my eyes, lol.

Your ball python is fine. Not all babies are nippy like yours, but it is not uncommon either. Don't sweat it, the snake will calm down.

What you are interpreting as agression is just a small snake being very afraid of a large person. It will take time for it to become comfortable you and you'll see less and less of the biting.

Sounds like your taking good care of it. A hide is a good thing. It gives the bp some security which will help it settle in.

Good luck

Justin
J. Kobylka Reptiles

hurts mine too... lol

did you keep the rat in the same cage that you have the snake in now? If you didn't clean it good enough then the snake might still be able to detect the rat... its possible.

But otherwise just give it time... i've gotten a few of my bps to come around to me after a little work.

Here is one problem:

Why do you have a 3 month old ball python in a 40 gallon aquarium? Move him/her into a 10 gallon and keep handling him/her as you have described. If you are using an aquarium you should get a second hiding place. I use upside-down cheap opaque bowls from a dollar store and slice off a portion of the side. Put one hide on the cooler side and one on the warmer side.

Brad Ratliff

Using all caps is like yelling on the internet.

How big is the snake? A 40 gal might be too big for it to feel secure, which is why it's so aggressive. Try getting a 10 gal and setting it up in there.

What's your setup like? Are you using a UTH or a heat lamp? Lamps might also be stressing the snake out, if that's what you're using for a heatsource. A UTH is usually the best way to heat a snake.

The snake doesn't need to be fed twice a week. One adequate sized meal once a week should be just fine. My babies are a little older than 3 months and are eating two mice a feeding, and I feed them about every 7 days.

Stop handling the snake for a few weeks. It strikes because it is terrified. Try setting it up in a smaller cage for a few weeks, and after it's eaten two to four meals for you, then start handling it a little bit at a time. Make sure that the hide is small enough that the snake can fit in there and touch 3 sides of it. My babies like the little snack-size cereal boxes.

After it's had a chance to settle in and feel secure, it should calm down.

Good luck!

~jenny
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"The python has, and I fib no fibs,
318 pairs of ribs.
In stating this I place reliance
On a seance with one who died for science
This figure is sworn to and attested,
He counted them while being digested."
~Ogden Nash

jenny.thegreenes.org

"If you're happy and you know it,
Bomb Iraq!
If you cannot find Osama,
Bomb Iraq!
If the terrorists are frisky,
Pakistan is looking shifty,
North Korea is too risky,
Bomb Iraq!

I just sold a baby snake that was so aggressive at first, it would strike all the time, But after handling a little at a time it was in fact I sold it to a six year old and it is totally fine. Of course the mother always supervises, I see the snake frequently it is a friend. It will calm down. try the smaller tank.

Well said j3nnay. Excatly what I was going to say.
eccept that the last paragraph had me in stitches about the
cobra and the mongoose Lol. Can you imagine a mongoose trying to eat a cobra's eggs and thinking Mmmmm! this cobra is acting like a python I saw on t.v when that human was trying to pick it up. Lol.
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You all talk Balls,I talk Royals ;0)
www.alpharoyals.co.uk

It sounds like your snake's environment might be off (temps, hides, etc) which would lead to stress and aggression.

Take a look at my caresheet and see if his cage is set up correctly.

For starters you can put him in a much smaller cage, provide two small hides (where he will fit snugly), make sure the temps are between the low 80s cool side to low 90s warm side 24/7, and feed him once a week. Also, if you're using lights make sure to use a red or black light at least at night. Regular white light bulbs will stress out your snake if left on all the time.
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www.SuperiorSerpents.com

haha

Not all snakes bite... with proper care ...this type of snake should be one of the most calm, easiest tempermented snake to have as a pet.

Take off the caps locks! Take the snake out of the aquarium or put in a hide box. Balls are secretive and glass is not ideal. Like others have said, snakes bite. It is not a big deal.

people say balls are a good beginner snake.....
I say balls are wild and hate people , bite faster than cobras and don't take well to being captives....

yes some are sweet...some are just mean

is it too hot?.....84 is fine ......

......wild balls act wild alot....even little ones.......

.you are doing ok......feed it 5 days if it wants...no sweat.
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......wild balls suck ! BUY AMERICAN DAMNIT

stop yelling.
and its not a puppy, it is also not a domesticated animal, and animals whether domesticated or not will have different personalities.

when a ball bites unless you are a total wuss. The speed at which it happens can be a little disconcerting at first but it's really no more painful that a vaccination. In my opinion, one of the best things a beginner can do is let a small snake like yours bite them. Once you've experienced it you won't be afraid of it any more, just like the needle.
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I eat human infants. They, like everything else, taste like chicken. What?

I agree about the CAPS, turn em Off...
Firstly ...a 3 month old baby in a 40 gallon is not good... especially if you are having aggression issues ...get a 10 gallon (20 at the max).
Crumple up some news paper (open it up a little) and scatter it through the enclosure... this will "cramp up" the wide open space and give it a bit more security...
Do not handle it for a week or two (except for feeding - if you feed out side the enclosure). If feeding in the enclosure... make sure the prey doesn't get covered in substrate...
(you don't wanna have to pull it out of the mouth of an aggressive snake).

Eventually remove one peice of news paper at a time
(like 1 pc a week)

You Need to have:
Hides - You will Need 2 hides (identical or similar) small enough for it to be snug around your Snake. This will provide the security your snake needs.One on Each side. One to be placed where the UTH under your enclosure is, and one on the Cool Side.

a Water dish big enogh for it to soak in (if need be)
- a healthy BP does not constantly soak
- if soaking there is a good chance there are mites, or the possibility of insecureness

Substrate - Almost anything can be used... News Paper, Shelf Liner (not contact paper), cypress... etc.
Carpet and Rug will hold moisture... but tends to Mold easily which could lead to health issues.

Do NOT use Cedar, Pine or Sand!
- Cedar and Pine oils are Toxic and Deadly to snakes, and Sand will dry them out, get between their scales and can get into their mouths and cause infection!
- NO Contact Paper -
Contact Paper - Like wall paper (smaller width/length) only with sticky back - like tape.
If your snake got caught up in that, it would be like some one falling into a pool with a tarp over it.
It would be a Big Mess!!!
Aspen is a common choice for most snake owners.

UTH (Under Tank Heater) outside, under the bottom of the Warm side

Digital Thermomiter/Hydrometer to measure the temps
- inside the hide on the Warm side, and at the bottom of the Cool side (also measures the Humidity)

Temps should read:
Warm Side: between 90f-93f
Cool Side:between 80f - 83f
Humidity: between 50% - 60% (raise to 70% when in shed)

In temp = Cool side temp
Out temp = Warm side temp
Bottom reading is the Humidity reading

You Need a Thermostat to control the UTH
(and any other heat source)
- Belly burn is Nasty, Unhealthy, and Very Costly!

A Thermostat works like one you would have on Your home furnace or A/C . It turns the heat source Off when reaching the Set Temps, and turns it back On when the temps fall below that. The heat source is plugged into the Thermostat, a probe similar to that of the Thermometer/Hydrometer's, under the Warm Side Hide. The Thermostat is not put in the enclosure.

A Digital Thermometer/Hydrometer like this one can be purchased at a store like Wal-Mart (in the Hardware Dept.), Lowes, or other hardware stores, for less than $15. If you don't want to do a lot of running around looking for a digital Thermometer/Hydrometer, make some calls, or look online.

The Probe (the wire thingie that reads the temps/humidity level)goes Inside the warm hide
(don’t attach it - makes for a pain when cleaning)
Unit goes on cool side... near the bottom of enclosure (the sensor is on the bottom of the unit)

If you have all of this and you are still having problems.... chances are there is some thing else going on! Mites (which in an infestation can kill your BP), RI (Resp. Infection), or some thing else.

Correct your husbandry and go from there

If you appear nervous or frightened the reptile will sense it and become frigntened as well.