Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hey, going really slow here and searching and loading pages is becoming nearly impossible, so ill just ask:

1. whats the suggested ambient humidity?
2. whats the preferred basking/ambient temp?
3. what is a decent sized cage (very simply explanation) setup for a pair of leopard geckos? I have a male atm, but want to get a female soon.
4. whats the preferred substrate? I found a really easily accessible source of nice, clean shale/slate whatever its called, so Ive got my guy on that. Basically its just slabs of different sizes covering the "ground" with some bed-a- beast (VERY little) below to help retain moisture. Other pieces, ranging in size, are stacked to make a series of lil 'canyons' with overhangs and plenty of tight spaces/overhangs to wedge into.

To be quite honest, Ive kinda been winging it with my leo as far as asking advice from others. Hes been doing well for the last year, but due to a recent stint of not eatting (caused, I think, by aggression from his pictus gecko roomate and/or the move into a new cage) I moved him into a new enclosure.

As such, I looked online and realized I didnt really know quite abit about this species, so I figured id get the basics down before I go any further.

Ive been working with about 50-60% humidity, temps ranging from 100-105 F at the basking spots and a temp gradient from about 100 at the basking spot down to room temp (usually 68-75 F).

>>Hey, going really slow here and searching and loading pages is becoming nearly impossible, so ill just ask:
>>
>>1. whats the suggested ambient humidity?

Not really sure on the humidity percentage. What I do and I know many others do is create a humid hide. Basically a teperware container can be taken. Cut a hole into it for the geckos to get in. You can use moist paper towels, Bed-A-Beast, or moss to help hold the humidity.

>>2. whats the preferred basking/ambient temp?

The preferred ground temperature for the hot spot in the tank is 92F-88F.

>>3. what is a decent sized cage (very simply explanation) setup for a pair of leopard geckos? I have a male atm, but want to get a female soon.

Cage size for two Leopard Geckos is a 20 Gallon Tank.

>>4. whats the preferred substrate? I found a really easily accessible source of nice, clean shale/slate whatever its called, so Ive got my guy on that. Basically its just slabs of different sizes covering the "ground" with some bed-a- beast (VERY little) below to help retain moisture. Other pieces, ranging in size, are stacked to make a series of lil 'canyons' with overhangs and plenty of tight spaces/overhangs to wedge into.

As a substrate, I use Paper Towels. This is really easy to clean. As you mentioned, Slate is also a good substrate. As far as moisture, they do not need too much moisture because they are a desert animal.

>>
>>To be quite honest, Ive kinda been winging it with my leo as far as asking advice from others. Hes been doing well for the last year, but due to a recent stint of not eatting (caused, I think, by aggression from his pictus gecko roomate and/or the move into a new cage) I moved him into a new enclosure.
>>
>>As such, I looked online and realized I didnt really know quite abit about this species, so I figured id get the basics down before I go any further.
>>
>>Ive been working with about 50-60% humidity, temps ranging from 100-105 F at the basking spots and a temp gradient from about 100 at the basking spot down to room temp (usually 68-75 F).

Preferably you'll want to get the temps into the low 90s or high 80s. The humidity sounds a little high for these guys. Also... how are you providing the heat? Undertank Heaters are prefered heaters. This helps with their digestion. Since Leopard Geckos are nocturnal, they do not get their heat from the sun, rather they absorb it from the ground at night.

Hope this helps! Good luck with you gecko!
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MK Geckos
Your Source for Leopard Geckos!
MK Geckos Forums

First off, thanks much for the info! Ill adjust things very soon.

Ok, so, humidity is a moot issue if a humid hide is provided? Cause I have him with a small deli-container like deal, with a hole cut in the side, and moist moss inside. Hes been spending a good deal of time in there, so im thinking hes about to shed. The bed a beast below the shale is 2 fold- it provides a minimal amount of humidity in SOME locations ( where it dosnt evap quickly) and seems to keep crickets from getting down in between the shale and hidden from the gecko.

How is water best offered? He has a shallow dish, but this evaporates and needs refilled daily. Ive never seen him drink from it either. I usually mist his cage just enough that it evaporates off in about 10-15 minutes and he seems to enjoy it when hes sprayed gently and licks the water from his lips and snout.

Ill lower the temps to the range you suggested. I use a 2 over head lights- a 35 watt halogen flood and a 40 watt "moon" bulb. The halogen dosnt make too much light, and really warms up the rocks when its on, so I put it on in the mornings and turn it off about mid afternoon. The moon I leave on, and it keeps the cage at a good 75-80 F ambient/85-90 basking, with some areas dropping lower.

I just did this today, as the other bulb was burnt out. Id gone from a single 60 (?) watt red bulb, which burnt out. So I replaced it with the halogen and a 75 watt moon bulb, but that burnt out too. So ive got the 40 watt in there now and it seems to be reaching, from what you tell me, good temps.

Ive got my animal in a 65 gallon reptarium cage, set to give maximum floorspace (ie, on its side), covered by a layer of plastic (black garbage bags) on the sides, with plywood underneath and surrounding/covering it. That should be MORE than enough room for 2, which means I may even look at making it a 1.2 or 1.3 group. Hes a really nice looking albino- bright yellows across the body with pale patterning and his tail is white starting just past the back legs.

Im going on vacation soon, but when I return im going to build a custom box around the reptarium to insulate it better. He seems to enjoy it well enough.

Im going to work with the lights some to make things optimal, and i think im going to only mist him once every 2 days and even less than before.

Another question:

Whats the best way to offer food?

My guy used to hungrily munch mealworms, waxworms and even superworms from time to time (hed take the supers from hand!).

Now he dosnt seem interested in the worms, but has showed interest in small crickets (the movement seems to be the prime motive here). These, however, seem to be hard for him to catch. They are quick and springy and he cant seem to get them accurately, which means it takes alot of energy to get enough to fill him up.

>>First off, thanks much for the info! Ill adjust things very soon.
>>

No Problem

>>Ok, so, humidity is a moot issue if a humid hide is provided? Cause I have him with a small deli-container like deal, with a hole cut in the side, and moist moss inside. Hes been spending a good deal of time in there, so im thinking hes about to shed. The bed a beast below the shale is 2 fold- it provides a minimal amount of humidity in SOME locations ( where it dosnt evap quickly) and seems to keep crickets from getting down in between the shale and hidden from the gecko.
>>

Correct, with the humid hide, the humidity will be taken care of. Just be sure to keep it moist and warm. They tend to dry out if forgotten about.

>>How is water best offered? He has a shallow dish, but this evaporates and needs refilled daily. Ive never seen him drink from it either. I usually mist his cage just enough that it evaporates off in about 10-15 minutes and he seems to enjoy it when hes sprayed gently and licks the water from his lips and snout.
>>

Water is best offered in a shallow dish like you are. Lowering the temps like suggested in the previous post should slow the evaporation. I like to keep my water dish on the cool side of the tank to slow evaporation as well. Continue to offer a water dish though. Although you don't see your gecko drinking, he more than likely is doing it while your asleep or not watching.

>>Ill lower the temps to the range you suggested. I use a 2 over head lights- a 35 watt halogen flood and a 40 watt "moon" bulb. The halogen dosnt make too much light, and really warms up the rocks when its on, so I put it on in the mornings and turn it off about mid afternoon. The moon I leave on, and it keeps the cage at a good 75-80 F ambient/85-90 basking, with some areas dropping lower.
>>

Sounds good!

>>I just did this today, as the other bulb was burnt out. Id gone from a single 60 (?) watt red bulb, which burnt out. So I replaced it with the halogen and a 75 watt moon bulb, but that burnt out too. So ive got the 40 watt in there now and it seems to be reaching, from what you tell me, good temps.
>>

Good

>>Ive got my animal in a 65 gallon reptarium cage, set to give maximum floorspace (ie, on its side), covered by a layer of plastic (black garbage bags) on the sides, with plywood underneath and surrounding/covering it. That should be MORE than enough room for 2, which means I may even look at making it a 1.2 or 1.3 group. Hes a really nice looking albino- bright yellows across the body with pale patterning and his tail is white starting just past the back legs.
>>

Sound sweet! I can't wait to see pictures of your Gecko(s)

>>Im going on vacation soon, but when I return im going to build a custom box around the reptarium to insulate it better. He seems to enjoy it well enough.
>>
>>Im going to work with the lights some to make things optimal, and i think im going to only mist him once every 2 days and even less than before.
>>
>>Another question:
>>
>>Whats the best way to offer food?
>>
>>My guy used to hungrily munch mealworms, waxworms and even superworms from time to time (hed take the supers from hand!).
>>
>>Now he dosnt seem interested in the worms, but has showed interest in small crickets (the movement seems to be the prime motive here). These, however, seem to be hard for him to catch. They are quick and springy and he cant seem to get them accurately, which means it takes alot of energy to get enough to fill him up.
>>
>>

I offer all of my Leopard Geckos a mealworm dish. One reason he might have stopped eating is because of the time of the year. He could be "in the mood." Male Leopard Geckos tend to go on hunger strikes when looking for females. Another reason could be a parasite or bacterial infection. Either one of these could have been from being housed with the other gecko. If taken into a reptile vet, they can do a fecal test on the geckos poop to see if there is anything wrong with it.

Hope this helps!
Kyle Johnson
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MK Geckos
Your Source for Leopard Geckos!
MK Geckos Forums