Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have a 3' ball in a 20 gallon Critter Cage. His hide box was a 3" tall 12 pack beer box. I found a hollow log (16"x 7" and thought it might be more natural. It is open on both ends and has a large (5.5"x3.5" hole in the center. He went in one time but came back out. He doesn't seem to like it and stays behind it. I turned tho side hole down so he could get the heat from the substrate heater but still won't go in it. Should I change back to the box?

I would say keep it in. He will get used to it. My albino goes under his bowl and he is to big and is always knocking the water over so I changed bowls and at first he would not go in his hide, that lasted a few days, now he goes in.

I don't like placing a "naturally" found object in an enclosure. Personal Preference. I know some do but only after it's baked in an oven at low temps to kill anything that could be living in it. As far as it not using it, could be a smell, could damp and too cool, hard to say.

I will tell you about what I like to use for a hide box. I buy the saucers for flowering pots at WalMart. Usually $1.50. I take a utility blade and cut a 2" to 3" circle out of the center of the bottom. I flip it upside down and place it in the tub. relatively soon the python will find it and crawl down inside. At one point I had a picky, picky eater. I was told in the wild these pythons would likely crawl down into a hole and wait in ambush for its next dinner to return home. This kind-of recreates that thought. It's a nice hiding spot for them-mostly enclosed except for the top opening, it also aids in feeding. I don't feed any Ball live. It's either fresh kill (thumped) or F/T. I place the head of the rat just in the opening and shut the drawer. A little while later I'll check and presto, Rat disappeared. The magic rat-disappearing orange saucers. Now, don't ask me how I know this , but when you're going to pick this saucers up, pick them up by the outside diameter. DO NOT stick your finger in the hole to lift it, you may also have a python attached.

Dang, I'm kind of long winded. Sorry. Here is 2 pictures of my new '05 Graziani Pastel Male that just ate a rat this afternoon this way, hence the mid-gut bulge. One picture with the saucer and one directly without. The subtrate, if you don't recognize it, is cell-sorb plus. It's what Greg recommended, and I love it.

Hope that helps,
Greg Haugen

I think I figured out what to do. Since he has a small cage, I cut the log down to fit side ways and put it on the cool side. I put his box back on the warm side and put his dish on his log. It's held in place with his climbing sticks. I'll have to see how this works out since he has been going to the cool side during the summer. Thanks.

I use the same type of hide. But I like the look of your rack there can I see a pic of it. Looks like you are using acryilc for it and wood sides. Can I see a more detailed pic?
-----
Brian n Chrissy

"snakes are kind of like potato chips, you cant have just one"

It's a nice design. It is not mine though. Here is a link to the site that has the instructions.

http://www.northeastsnakes.com/racks.htm

He uses 28 qt. on his rack that is 10 high, close to 6ft. My tubs are bigger. Mine is only 6 tubs high, around 46" total heighth. I wanted my shorter because I am very fortunate and have a wife that likes to be involved with the animals. She's not as tall as I am. The expanded PVC that he uses, 1/4"/6mm Komatex, I found it locally at a few Plastic suppliers (yellow pages). One was $92 a 4x8 sheet and the other was $59 for the identical product so shop around. The plastic cuts just fine on a table saw or band saw. It's is a very rigid rack. The main reason I like it is every surface the animal comes in contact if is plastic, but the buld of the rack is 1" pine so the cost is low. His isn't heated, mine is with Flexwatt down the back with a solid back instead of the "board" that he uses.

I'm pleased with it so far.

Good Luck, just ask if there is anything I can help with.

Greg Haugen

That helps I was looking to build a few extra racks.
One last Question you said you ran the heat tape down the back right? So do you mean that the tubs are not touching the heat tape? And they are getting heat from the side wall instead of bely heat?

Sounds like it will work good. And again thanks.
-----
Brian n Chrissy

"snakes are kind of like potato chips, you cant have just one"

Yes, I have heat tape down the back. It's hooked up to a dimmer on low. My backing material is foiled faced hardboard insulation, the sides are also covered with the foiled faced board, the way the 1" pine frame works out it creates a nice "frame" to fill in. With my rack enclosed more, the heat radiates from the back to the front. The heated side of the tubs are 86-88 and the cooler side is 80-82. No-lids the plastic of the next shelf is the "lid", and the tubs are drilled. My snake room is currently in the basement. As we improve the room I can change or "take away" from the rack to maintain the right levels. I also have that subtrate that does hold some of the heat so in a way there is "belly" heat. This was just the first rack I've built in a while, long while. My next one I may put in the belly heat.

Hope that helps,
Greg

they are all different... i have used just about everything ...
-cereal box
-bamboo (from the islands)
-pet store hide boxes
-plastic containers
-ice tea bottle
-PVC Pipe
-Manmade ones
-some other stuff, cant think of them right now...

-----
There is only 2 things u got in this world, Your Word & Your Balls !

you are confusing a hide spot with cage furnishings. if it is not tight, compact and secure, it isn't a "hide" spot/box at all.

keep the log, keep whatever you like in the cage, but provide proper hide spots as well. check out this FAQ from our site on hide spots, simply apply the idea and you can use LOTS of things, lots of tight, dark, secure things, to make hide spots.
-
Pro Exotics Hide Spot FAQ

-----
robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles