Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all. I am new here and i am thinking about getting a box turtle. I would love to get an Eastern but here in maine it is illegal to posess them because they are endangered.I like the ornates, how are they as pets? How big do they get? are they easy to handle? What other species are good beginner box turtles?
Any help would be great. Thanks.

Greetings,

I am glad you have an interest in Box Turtles. They are definitely not a beginner pet, so, be sure you have the resources and the time and funding to set up the proper enclosure before getting one.

Each species of Box Turtle, and sometimes, each subspecies, has different requirements for substrate, food, water, humidity, and temperature. The first thing to ensure is that the box turtle you purchase is captive bred and captive born; this will usually appear as: CB/CB or CBB.

Stay away from wildcaught (wc or w/c) individuals since they ALWAYS have internal parasites and have not always been legally exported from the state in which they are found. In fact, there is a thriving market for turtles taken illegally in one state and launderede through another state - Texas and Arkansas seem to be the most lax in their enforcement and account for the largest number of box turtles shipped from the wild.

Next, ensure the dealer guarantees live arrival and has a health guarantee with a full money-back guarantee. Otherwise, you could end up with a sick or injured turtle you'll have to "shell" out a lot of money for at the vets.

Finally, look at the species that can survive best in your regional area so they can be kept outside for the larger part of the year.

As for caging - DO NOT KEEP BOXIES IN AQUARIUMS!!! They do not provide adequate temperature, humidity or ventilation for boxies and numerous health problems will result such as URTI, bacterial infections, shell rot and shell fungus, and possible reinfection from parasites. BTW - just because a turtle is cbb does not mean it does not have parasites - reptile parasites are passed from the mom to the embryos as they form and new babies often possess internal parasites.

The best type of enclosure is a large, square tub, low and open enough so that it allows ventilation and yet tall enough that it prevents the turtle from climbing out. Depending on the species, you may need a half-water, half-land environment or a land environment with a shallow water dish (we use film-developer trays or Eco Terra dishes for young and injured turtles). Rubbermaid produces some great tubs buit a large concrete mixing tray (available at Home Depot) is also suitable.

Preferable is an outdoor enclosure which permits the turtle to have a normal day/night cycle, ten to fifteen degrees variance in temperature, anda suitable cover (rocks, branches, logs) and concealment (loose soil, leaf litter, or detritus). Outdoor enclosures also provide the most effective UVA/UVB exposure - important for shell and bone development plus the surface helps to wear down the beak and nails reducing the need for filing or trimming.

Substrate should be sufficient for the turtle to bury itself and create a form (a house turtles live in periodically in the wild). We discourage people from using pine shavings, cedar shavings, redwood shavings, care fresh and sands - all of which will either cause respiratory distress, dehydration or gut impaction respecitively.

We generally prefer bed-a-beast (as long as it is kept scrupulously clean) and Jungle Mix. These two substrates are suitable as long as you monitor the moisture absorption and cleanliness. The depth should be suitable to allow the turtle to completely burrow and cover itself - just as in the wild. Leaf litter and artificial items can be provided to support form building by the turtle.

The turtle should have a temperature gradient in the enclosure which vaaries according to species. Generally a ten to fifteen degree variance between the cool side and the hot side (provided by overhead lighting or a ceramic heater - NOT A HEAT PAD). Many box turtles like to bask and require a spot on a dry surface where they can sit to warm up their bodies to aid in digestion, circulation and respiration. Once warmed, they will retire to a shaded area or form to hide.

The temperature range should be between about 70 degrees in the cool area up to 85 under the basking light. You can let the nighttime temperature fall to 65 degrees to about 75 degrees.

In addition to a basking light, you will need to provide your turtle with an ultraviolet light for UVA/UVB absorption. Although products such as Reptisun are generally suitable, we use the more expensive ultraviolet bulbs because they last longer and provide a greater frequency output. Do not use blacklights and don't waste your money on incandescent bulbs - the output is ineffective for turtles. The light must be no more than 18 inches above the turtle to produce effective UV wavelengths that promote vitamin D3 conversion and trigger the Pineal gland to stimulate growth, appetite, and reproduction.

Food is highly variable depending on the species. Generally, neonates and youngsters will focus almost exclusively on protein sources, that is: invertebrates, carrion (dead animals), and fish and amphibians. Expect that the youngster will ignore veggies for the first 12 to 18 months of its life. You can try to supplement with organic baby foods (without sugar or fructose additives) to help transition the turtle. Ignore the majority of prepared foods - they are a waste of money. If you really want to use prepared foods - the best on the market are provided by Walkabout Farms from Susan Donahue or Mazuri. Pretty Pets isn't bad for older turtles but then, only as a supplement.

Some turtles will transition to vegetable matter in conjunction with protein while others will remain fixated on worms, crickets, and pinkie mice. Most box turtles will willingly take these items as adults but some will take them to the exclusion of greens and fruits.

Most of the Eastern races will take dandelions, collard greens, strawberries and berries, melon, clover, and human-produced lettuces (red leaf, green leaf, romaine). Reptomin is not a bad supplement if given to the turtle as periodic alternative. It combines vegetable matter and fish protein.

Vitamin supplements such as calcium or herptevite are helpful but should not be overdone.

As for general health, you should provide a fecal sample to your veterinarian as soon as possible to look for parasitic organizms and any blood in the stool - this will tell you how healthy your turtle is. Also physically examine the turtle externally at least once a day to look for parasites, damage, puffy eyes, enlarged tympanums (ears) or prolapse (the colon, penis or cloacal lining extruding from the cloacal opening - caused by dehydration, parasites or a lack of muscle control in young male turtles).

Keep in mind that most box turtles can live to be ove 80 to 100 years old. If you ever get tired of the turtle, you cannot simply turn it loose or expect a local zoo to take it. Be prepared for taking in this turtle for the long haul or having a suitable person or organization ready to accept the animal if necessary.

You can find much more information than I have provided at a couple of sites:

Melissa Kaplans Care Pages http://www.anapsid.org/box.html

and

Boxturtle care by Andy Highfield
http://www.phy.ohiou.edu/~mash/herp/avoidbox.html

I wish you the best and if you have any more questions, please feel free to email me.

Dennis Desmond
Director of Operations
Northern Virginia Reptile Rescue
http://www.boxturtle.org

Northern Virginia Reptile Rescue

you have done a great job of covering the basics
i still prefer clean topspoil to jungle mix
and i am curious about andy's comment :
"Box turtles are naturally quite gregarious creatures and enjoy each others
company."

opinions?

also highfield says:
he keeps 7 turtles in a pen which is 6' wide x 8'
i have bigger indoor enclosures and i think 48 square feet is barely enough roo for two turtles
7 is cruel.

and kaplan says:
"Indoor enclosures must be at least 36" x 12" ..."
i do hope she is referring to a hatchling
for giving an adult terepene three square feet of living space is like keeping an elephant in a lagre bedroom.

and what's this about:
"You need to invest in a submersible water heater if you cannot get or keep the water consistently hot enough with the substrate and overhead heat sources. Buy a couple of aquarium or reptile thermometers; they are much cheaper than paying veterinarian expenses or replacing a dead turtle."
?

and this:
Ornate boxes: between 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night;
Other U.S. box turtles: 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night

are these american box turtles, or from maybe, Brazil?

seems like odd information indeed.

My hatchlings get an indoor tank their first year of life. I use either a 40 breeder or a 20L depending on the number of babies I have. After one year they go into a 9'x3' pen outdoors.

That is interesting, some of the Western Boxies need a consistent water temp, but I cannot imagine a heater - mostly because the water depth generally isn't that deep.

I know for others that actually swim (Coahila and Easterns), if they are outside the water temp shold be fine and if they are inside, perhaps a heater shold be used if the room is air conditioned.

Hmmmm

Dennis

Northern Virginia Reptile Rescue

male easterns do not enjoy each other's company in my experience they tend to battle ferociously. Females do not seem to "enjoy" each others company so much as tolerate it. Males do seem to like having females around when they 'feel the urge', but there is no need to keep more than one box turtle for their sake.

Thanks for the kind words. We used to use topsoil but we found that it didn't hold moisture well and when it did, it molded.

The Jungle mix and cypress mulches were better at resisting fungus and mold and still held the moisture well for boxies. They can also burrow into the substrate and create forms.

We use shredded newspaper, however for injured boxies with open wounds and the possibility of infection.

Dennis

Northern Virginia Reptile Rescue

Knowing what I know now, and with my limited experience, if I were you I would think long and hard about acquiring any kind of box turtle.
I first got mine last summer, AFTER doing alot of homework about what their needs were(I rescued turtles from a construction site before they were bulldozed), and ended up having to house 2 indoors over the winter for health reasons.
I spent as much $$ on an indoor setup, 4'x8', heat, lights, water, etc. as I did on a 21'x36' outdoor setup, with pond, fencing, etc.This does not factor in the vet bills for the one with the ear abscess...
I thought they were doing nicely enough over the winter until I moved them outdoors when the weather improved.WOW! What a difference! They were MUCH more active/alert/interested once they were moved outside.
As a result of this experience, I would not recommend keeping a turtle indoors unless it were absolutely necessary, and only for the short term.
Turtles need lots of room to roam & forage.They are NOT low maintenance when kept inside, and in fact can be very expensive.
Please give it some thought.
Does the power go out in a winter storm in your area?
Unless you're in the southeastern part of the state, this could be a huge issue.
Where in Maine are you?
And can you get there from here?

Stephanie

Thanks for all the info guys.I do have expirience with aquatic turtles.To answer one of your questions i live in southern maine.What species do you recomend?

You may be able to get by with ornate box turtles (I think you mentioned easterns being not allowed). They are rather hardy turtles.

You could do somewhat of a hybrid setup. Keep them outdoors as long as possible. When they dig down for winter and you haven't seen them for a week, dig them up and bring them into a temporary indoor hibernation setup (this would limit how many you could keep). Hibernate them in a fridge, or other controlled environment for a more natural period of time (compare to say, an Illinois winter), then bring them up and maintain them inside in a kiddie pool or similar until spring arrives.

Lots of work and expense, though, and more problems with health, more difficulty breeding... etc. Unfortunately box turtles are highly tuned to their climate and environment and some areas are not very suitable for them. It's too bad you can't have easterns where you are.

I would under no circumstances consider year round indoor housing for box turtles to be an acceptible answer except in one instance... where you have the money and expertise to build zoo quality indoor habitats and a whole room to devote to a few turtles. A guy in canada (kanuk or some such posting here) has done this successfully for a few years now.

Could you do wood turtles?

hey why not three toed box turtles!! i have one!

slightly less cold hardy than ornates