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Hatchling Feeding Issues

Valgarth Sep 23, 2007 11:46 AM

Hi all,

I've just gotten a hatchling amelanistic corn and after two attempts at feeding warmed, thawed pinkies, he hasn't taken. I know I'm probably just suffering new owner nerves, but I'm wondering if anyone has any advice.

I've tried leaving him alone with the mouse and I've tried the "mousie dance" to no avail. He doesn't seem to be getting ready to shed, and it's possible that the first mouse was off, having been thawed for quite some time. I haven't tried a mouse I'm certain is fine yet with tongs and a bit of motion, so I've still got to do that one.

In any case, I know that corns are not generally tricksy feeders so I'm a little worried.

Any thoughts from the pros?

Val

Replies (9)

JasonW Sep 23, 2007 12:08 PM

How long have you had the snake? Its possible the individual is just settling in to its new home before taking food. Try feeding it a live pinkie, Normally a live one will kick in its feeding instincts.Keep us up to date.
Foot Hill Reptiles

Valgarth Sep 23, 2007 04:46 PM

I've had him a week today. I tried to feed him four days in and again yesterday. I figured he'd be ready to eat by now, but he could still be getting settled. I was hoping to avoid live feeding, but if that's how it goes, that's how I'll feed him. I figured that because the breeder was feeding him frozen, he'd take them that way.

JasonW Sep 24, 2007 01:44 AM

I would try live food, you can always convert it to FT later, just get it started with live food
Foot Hill Reptiles

draybar Sep 23, 2007 12:56 PM

>>Hi all,
>>
>>I've just gotten a hatchling amelanistic corn and after two attempts at feeding warmed, thawed pinkies, he hasn't taken. I know I'm probably just suffering new owner nerves, but I'm wondering if anyone has any advice.
>>
>>I've tried leaving him alone with the mouse and I've tried the "mousie dance" to no avail. He doesn't seem to be getting ready to shed, and it's possible that the first mouse was off, having been thawed for quite some time. I haven't tried a mouse I'm certain is fine yet with tongs and a bit of motion, so I've still got to do that one.
>>
>>In any case, I know that corns are not generally tricksy feeders so I'm a little worried.
>>
>>Any thoughts from the pros?
>>
>>Val

when you said you left it alone with the pinkie, did you mean in a small deli or tupperware dish, in the dark for several hours?
Give it a few days and try this method but with a live pinkie.
If you are like me and can't get live try leaving it in a small dish, in the dark but "brain" the pinkie.
Cut or poke a hole in the head allowing a little brain matter to ooze out.

If that doesn't work give it a few more days and then try washing the pinkie with ivory or dial sop. Rince thoruoghly and repeat above suggestion of small container, in dark for hours.

If neither of those work come back and we will see what we can do from there.
-----
Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

goregrind Sep 23, 2007 03:31 PM

why would you wash the pink? i thought it was better to be smelly.
-----
jake

my addiction:
1.1 normal ball pythons
0.2.1 corns
1.0 albino cal king
0.0.1 wc garter

draybar Sep 23, 2007 04:11 PM

>>why would you wash the pink? i thought it was better to be smelly.
>>-----
>>jake
>>

sometimes it works
the smell may be too strong from urine or feces or even dead pinks stored with it.
Washing removes all "foreign" smells and leaves the pinkie smelling like...well..a pinkie
-----
Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

goregrind Sep 23, 2007 03:29 PM

im not a pro but the most importsnt thing is you make sure to give it time between feeding attempts, try to hard and youll stress it out, do that and nothing will work
-----
jake

my addiction:
1.1 normal ball pythons
0.2.1 corns
1.0 albino cal king
0.0.1 wc garter

Darin Chappell Sep 24, 2007 03:56 PM

I breed bloodreds, almost exclusively, in my collection, and I have had exceptional good luck in getting non-feeders to eat. In fact, one of the larger breeders in the nation has sent me his non-feeders in the past so that I can get them to eat for him and then send them back to him. He could get them to eat, obviously, but he doesn't have the time, so he sent them to me.

I say all of that just to let you know...I have tried it all!

Here's what I do in the order I do it:

f/t pinky

f/t pinky brained

f/t pinky washed with soap and water (don't laugh!)

f/t pinky covered in tuna water (just buy the cheap brand of tuna with spring water and drain the water off into a baggie. Then you can freeze the water in the baggie and thaw it out as you need it.)

f/t pinky rubbed on an anole

f/t pinky rubbed in the viscera (the guts) of an anole

f/t pinky with a piece of anole skin on its head

f/t pinky wrapped in the skin of an anole

f/t anole

a live anole

I generally allow a few days to pass between each attempt, stepping up in the process after each refusal. This allows for the hatchling to eat what it wants as soon as possible (ten days without food is a LONG time for a hatchling, and if they go too long, some of them will NEVER eat, even if you find that right recipe for them!), without stressing them too much.

Of course you can try the brown bag trick in each of the steps attempted, if the snake doesn't jump right on the offered food. Some animals just want it to be dark and quiet before they'll eat at all.

A couple of problems for using anoles have to be addressed, though:

First, they're EXPENSIVE!!! So, if you have to use one to get a baby eating, as soon as you can, you are going to want to wean him off of that anole response by going backwards in the process (by this I mean, reducng the amount of anole scent on the food item each feeding until you are simply brushing the pinky against the anole skin, and it is still being taken).

Second, there are some anoles that have come to your petshop having been wild caught (maybe the vast mojority of them, even), and it is becomming more and more common that these anoles have come into contact with pesticides prior to their capture, which, while not fatal to the lizards on the outside of their skin, is fatal to the snake that eats them! I lost a VERY expensive corn hatchling to this problem once.

Anyway...that's the basic process.

The trick is to always try to get the hatchling to eat the cheapest food source you find, so long as it still provides for the health of the snake. That's why I go in the order described above.

In my experience, some 95% of all corn hatchlings will eat somewhere along in that process, but 5% will starve themselves to death. It's not that they can't eat; it's just that I haven't found what they like yet. Unfortunately for them, however, if they have a developed taste for Bavarian Bat pinkies...they're not going to make it.

Hope that helps a bit!


-----
Darin Chappell
Hillbilly Herps
PO Box 254
Rogersville, MO 65742

balisong Sep 24, 2007 08:29 PM

I'm no expert, but I've had my grey-banded kingsnake since before he had his first pinky.

I've had success washing a pinky with a bar of Ivory soap.

The container feeding is worth trying again and again just change the ways the pinky is offered.

I do not know if this will work on a corn, but try placing a small piece of house gecko skin on the pinky's head. Check nearby pet stores or reptile shows, if your lucky a gecko might be shedding and you can get the shed skin for free as well as some strange looks from customers and employees.

When I had trouble feeding my grey-band I was told to raise the temperature about 2 days before offering a meal. For a corn I would guess about 87 degrees F. would do the trick.

Another thing that could work is, place the f/t pinky just outside your corn snake's hide box or near the water bowl.

Hope this was helpful.

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