Reptile & Amphibian Forums

last year I learned,from this BB,that my adult pair should not be fed for about 2 weeks before they go under. Well I now have 5 hatchlings and 3 "yearlings" in my family. I assume that the same 2 week rule holds ?? Most of the hatchlings have not expresed much interest in food, although some have. At this point, I have them in a separate Bin that contains little or no natural food. next week, they will go into "the big house" where they will have access to the hibernarium. would appreciate any input.

PS: I followed, roughly, Steph's suggestions and my group survived last winter quite well.

rules, I don't follow rules, I make sure they have the basics; food, clean water, and shelter, and observe my reptiles everyday and they (the reptiles) write the rules, and then I write it down in my notebook, then I follow, and try to cater to their needs and wants, not mine. Most people don't brumate reptiles the first year, gives them a helping start, and decreases mortality rate, but do what you think is best for them. When refering to 2 weeks off food, so they can purge the gut, so as not to rot in brumation, I think that 2 week rule is for people who take their turtles out from under the heat lamp in an aquarium, and stick them in a refrigerator, does anybody still do that? I think thats from the 70s or something. As for outdoor turtles, sit in the sun for awhile in Oct when the nighttime temps were cold, you still get hot, hot enough for a turtle to digest, but if the night time temps were cold the turtle wouldn't be eating anyway because they have instincts that go way back. Besides how do you know exacting when it's two weeks from the official day that brumation starts? Is there an official day? My notebook says that can vary or - approx. 30 days.
-----
1.0 pastel ball python
0.1 mojave ball python
0.1 normal ball python
0.2 3-toed box turtles
2.3 eastern box turtles
0.0.5 3-striped mud turtle
1.0 northern diamondback terrapin
2.1 tiger salamander
1.1 red-sided garter
1.0 anerythristic red-sided garter
1.1 Iowa snow plains garter
1.1 Het butter stripe cornsnake
0.1 anerythristic motley cornsnake
1.1 Blue garter (Puget Sound)

point taken. I know my adults went under around the 1st week of nov last year, using that as a point of reference. I agree completely with following their instincts, but I am a little nervous/cautious with these babies. Interesting to note the 2 adults have noticeably decreased their feeding over the last 2 weeks. Actually had a cold rain this Am and 3 of the 8 youngsters are out "hunting". These are probably the 3 yearlings. I appreciate the advice. I'm off to dig worms.

JOE

PS: had 3 hatchlings overwinter last year,only knew about 1 of them until spring, so I think for the most part these guys do well w/o too much intervention.

Hey, if your well with in there native range, and natural winter survival is normally high, I wouldn't worry about intervention either, let them do their thing. It's just that a lot of people myself included, like to beef up the hatchlings (of any reptile for that matter) the first year of their life, to get them to that bullet proof size if you know what I mean. Brumation can and does take it's toll, so they need to be in good shape prior as you well know, but obviously it has it's benefits especially to trigger breeding. You the individual have to decide where the balance is between, complete lack of intervintion - put them in a pen let them fend for themselves and total pampering and manipulation-regulating their diet and constant Vet. monitoring ect. ect.
Take care and good luck,
Jeff
-----
1.0 pastel ball python
0.1 mojave ball python
0.1 normal ball python
0.2 3-toed box turtles
2.3 eastern box turtles
0.0.5 3-striped mud turtle
1.0 northern diamondback terrapin
2.1 tiger salamander
1.1 red-sided garter
1.0 anerythristic red-sided garter
1.1 Iowa snow plains garter
1.1 Het butter stripe cornsnake
0.1 anerythristic motley cornsnake
1.1 Blue garter (Puget Sound)

>>PS: had 3 hatchlings overwinter last year,only knew about 1 of them until spring, so I think for the most part these guys do well w/o too much intervention.

Very true if you live in their natural range, and if the area you have the pen/hibernation site is well placed so it remains suitable all winter long. For example, I have a few areas in my yard that freezes over solid as a rock due to a perched water table. That would not be a good place for turtles to hibernate in and any smart wild ones would never pick it, but if my pens were there the turtles couldn't avoid it.

If you haven't read the hibernation chapter in my online book you may want to take a look at it. Not saying it's got all the answers, but it may help you hibernate these hatchlings safely. www.boxturtlesite.info/hib.html
-----
Tess
Kingsnake.com Forum Host