Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does anyone have info on captive care of these giants?

Thanks
Chris

Try this link.
http://www.kingsnake.com/varanus/pacific.htm

Thanks for the site. There are beautiful pics. I didnt get to the caresheets yet, but theres 2 and has to be alot in there.

Thanks Alot

Chris

What questions do you have? are you new to monitors and need to start from scratch or do you know some stuff and have particular questions?

I view myself as experienced. Ive kept quite a few niles, bluetails, savannahs, and a water. I dont however [rereading "I view myself as experienced"] feel cocky, or overconfident.

I would like to possibly start with a juvie. Id like to not spend 1k , but Ive seen 22" for $550. I have handled 2 in the 3ft range. From that I think I have a basic understanding of 1) their extremely sharp nails (i have scars just from one climbing on me) 2)their typically aggressive nature, and 3)how large their teeth are, and what they could be capable of. In other words by no means do I feel ready for anything large than 2ft or so. I want as small as I can to work with them.

I am also by no means an impulse buyer. The reason I asked such a blunt question is because I feel the need to learn anything and everything that I can prior to even considering aquiring an animal. Then theres the fact that you learn almost just as much the day you bring one home.

Most importantly, id like to know basic care, like temps, etc. Ive heard stories of 15' , but estimating 9-10ft avg? Id also like to know appropriate caging for adults, or rooms rather.
I also hear that adults can have a pretty nasty bite? By that I dont mean pain, limb loss, or nerve damage, Im speaking in terms of bacteria. After the basics, Id like to hear/read anything at all that can be offered.

Im not trying to just feed off you guys, but I want to go in the right direction, and there doesnt seem to be a whole lot on the net about them.

Thanks Alot

Chris

Hello Chris,

There is some information on them "out there." I wrote an article on them in Reptiles June 1998, also check out Honolulu Zoo webpage, they have something on V. salvadorii. Also try going to Varanus.nl web page as experienced V. salvadorii keepers visit there regularly.

I have just about everything written on them going back to 1878.
There is not a whole lot, but the above sources will give you a beginning...

Good Luck,
mbayless

Well I won't get into the set up ,cage size, temps etc. You can find that on any site about them with a caresheet. Someone has also given that info. below.

I see it says you want a young one but do not want to spend the money on a c/b. I will give you part of the lecture "you should always buy c/b when they are available" ok fair enough with that said and out of the way. I assume your not wanting to spend the money and thats why you cannot get the c/b babies. Well by the time you get a small one you might find out if it is sick you end up spending the $1k on it. But lets say you get lucky and find a healthy imported small croc that checks out at the vet with a clean bill of health. Ok well first thing is when getting it home being w/c it is going to be a crazy little fool that wants to get away. if not look it over and have the vet see it cause it might have something wrong.

"In other words by no means do I feel ready for anything large than 2ft or so. I want as small as I can to work with them."
That part of your post worries me in that these things grow fast when properly housed so don't plan on haven a 2 foot croc for to long. Within a year my female was 5 foot long. True most of that is tail but one that is 22" when you buy it will be 36" probly in a month or two. So you should really be prepared for a large monitor when buying a large monitor. That makes sense don't it?

It is good that you ready to ask questions, corcs are not man eaters waiting to maul you to death but they do deserve respect and not everyone should be buying them.

They do get very large my male is 9 foot long and still growing.
So again be prepared for a very large lizard that you simply look at. It won't be something to invite in your living room and have chill out on the couch with you.

As for there bite goes well yeah anything that eats dead prey and bites you after wards can inflict a nasty bacteria bite. The difference is only between how they cut you. Like a sav or albigs teeth design doesn't allow for much ripping of the skin. This also adds in not much bacteria gets stuck on them. Now when compared to something with ripping or shredding teeth that are serrated well stuff does get stuck and when they bite it cuts and tears deep wounds. The deeper it goes the more it can infect you. But I am not a DR. so don't have the credentials to tell you any more info. then common knowledge.

Maybe you should go handle some big crocs and see if you really are ready for one or not. If you have any further questions please feel free to ask.

The reason I said the "not ready for much more than 2ft" only goes as far as buying, I dont want to get a 4-6ftr or relative to that, and be given no real chance to work with them while they are small, and at the same time, I like getting everything young, even if it be a small harmless lizard or snake, I am comfortable with larger aggressive lizards so far. I also wouldnt buy from just anyone, it would be a reputable dealer, if that makes a difference. If it doesnt, then I would be willing to save up for a c.b. There is no way Ill go buy one without working with an adult first. Ive seen a few semi Mellow crocs like mike stefani's or a few from NERD, but at the same time, I realize that not many will come out like that. Space, food, and money wise, I am prepared, however I have yet to handle a large one.
I hear of some people snaring overly aggressive crocs (rabies pole, to mammal keepers). This does not seem safe to the animal?, maybe Im wrong, its safe for dogs, but dogs arent lizards.
Have you had many bad experiences with them?

thanks
chris

Hello Chris,
You might like to go to Ssnakes.com and look over the long discussions on V. salvadorii there, and lately there have been plenty of them....go have a look for yourself...

cheers,
mbayless

Ok, ill do that, thanks alot for your help, I really appreciate it.

Chris

Your post stated about the bite, not loss of limbs or nerve damage.
An adult can cause loss of fingers and if not loss then nerve damage is very possible. A friend had four fingers reattatched from a adults bite. And he was very experianced with large monitors. My Crocs would bite a rat and with one shake the rat was severed in two. I am not trying to scare you but just trying to make you realize they are not a monitor that you can enteract with. Like keeping a poisonus snake, very limited on handling more of just watching them then anything.
Good luck, Robert

We currently have two in our collection (a hatchling and a young adult). Based on talking to other zoos and private keepers who work with this species, here is what we do:

cage: our young adult is currently in a cage that measures 10' x 4' x 6' (w x d x h). Eventually, we are going to move this animal to an exhibit that measures 18' x 10' x 8'. These are shy animals that will remain motionless for long periods of time, however, they also become very active like most monitors so the more space the better.

set up: lots of climbing branches/cork bark/etc...these lizards love to climb. A warm basking area, using a power sun bulb, is directed over one of the limbs (we use three bulbs so that it covers most of the body when basking). A radiant heat panel maintains good background heat while also providing an additional basking area. Temps range from 120-130 deg F. directly below the basking spot while ambient temps range from the upper 80's/low 90's on the warm end to the upper 70's/low 80's on the cool end with moderate temps in between. This temp gradient provides optimal conditions and our monitors will spend time on the cool side, moderate area and warm temps.

For substrate, we are still experimenting, however, for now, we are using a sandy/soil substrate with cypress mulch mixed in. This allows us to heavily spray the cage twice daily to maintain optimal humidity levels which are important for this species. We also have a pro products misting system in place which works very well. Humidity levels fluctuate a bit but typically range in the 80-90% range (sometimes even a little higher)....BUT, we never sacrifice good air flow and our enclosures provide good ventilation. The cage has a ground floor hide area which the lizard appreciates. Last, a large water basin (like the ones we use for our raptors) provides soaking opportunities and this is cleaned daily because we do see the lizards drinking from this bowl.

Diet: We provide a varied diet of mice, rats, quail, chicks, fish, freshwater shrimp, ground turkey, and a few other odd and end items every now and then We offer food 3x weekly and adjust the diet should the lizards become overweight. We also provide supplements such as Minerall and a 50/50 mix of RepCal and Herptivite. Hatchlings get vitamins at every meal whereas our young adult now gets supplementation once or twice a week at most.

We have found this species to be wary and skittish but no so aggressive where we are unable to work around them (they will even tolerate holding)...but you seem like you are well aware for their capacity to inflict some serious damage to their keepers.

This is just a BRIEF overview and hopefully you will find a lot of additional information.

Take care,
Rob Carmichael, Director/Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
City of Lake Forest Parks & Recreation (IL)

I like your cage sizes. I was readign a forum on [bleep], and one keeper stated that the minimums for adult females are 6x6x3, and adult males 6x6x6. An adult male, maybe even a female probably could barely stretch out in that.

Anyway, I stil have alot of learning to do, and Id like to work with a few more personally before I aquire one, maybe a second one after I move out of where Im at, but I only have one room available.

Thanks for your help

Chris