Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've had my uro mali since March, two questions how come he hides most of the time(if i take away his hiding place he'll run around the tank) and he's not a big eater. Basking spot between 110 and 115 and feeding froze veg's , dandilions and bok choy...

There is a lot that can play into your uro not being active and being a poor eater. We will need more info on your care habits. What else is on the menu other than what you stated, how big is the enclosure, how large is the animal and is it captive born or wild caught? On another note, I would not remove his hide, it will leave the animal stressed due to a lack of an escape to avoid "danger".

-Nat

I'd start by adding endive as a large portion of his staple daily food and cutting down on the frozen veggies to only "treats", they have a lot more sugar in them than Uros need.

Can you give us more information like enclosure size, substrate, age of Uro, temps both hot and cool sides and basking spot temperature, what type of UV lighting, etc.?

Thanks,
Andi

All good points Nat and Andi.

I would also like to know answers to some of the
questions you've asked.

If your uro is a young juvenile I can maybe see why
the basking site is only 115F at best. If it is a
yearling or older I recommend raising the basking site
at least 10-20 degrees depending on the size/age and
body mass of the uro in question

You should also try introducing a more varied food
choice by also feeding dark leafy calcium fortified
greens like dandelion, turnip, mustard and collard
greens. Some rose and hibiscus petals when available
as well as variety of yellow squash when in season.

I agree that taking it's hide away only causes it to
run around in search of a safe refuge.

Uros are creatures of habit whether wc or cb so you
also have to consider that winter is just around the
corner. Most herps are slowing down and eating less in
preparation for the coming winter as hibernation is on
their minds about this time of year.

If you want your uro to remain up and active throughout
the winter months you will have to raise his cage temp
gradient up a bit. Form near 80-85 on the cool end to a
much warmer 120-130 at the basking site. Hopefully your
enclosure/tank is large/long enough to be able to reach
this temperature variation. If it is a yearling or older
you could cool it down for six to eight weeks if done
proberly or you can simple keep it's temps in check and
keep it warmed through the colder winter months. If you
choose to cool it down just be sure it is in the best of health/weight.

Just my 3 cents worth,
John