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Feeding Q? (Leangthy)

Rowebert Nov 11, 2007 09:14 PM

This little guy (a yearling), ate my 900 g, 3' 7"'s python's large F/T rat, tail first. I have them in the same cage, excuse me please. They actually get along and curl up together in the hide. I had to go to work and he had it by the but. I figured he would spit it out. I bought two more, but live and pre-killed with a plastic bee-bee gun. I read that they might be enticed by the brains hanging out. Neither would take, the gross one is a small rat. The larger ball is in shed, but I think the yearling is possibly still full from the large rat. Are they going off feed because of winter? The hide stay aought 86 deg. I can't aford to keep my house temp up. Sorry so long but any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd hate my new snake to die from not eating all winter.

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2.0 Normal ball
1.2 Green Anoles
0.1 Hooded Rat
0.1 Outside Cat

Replies (8)

wh00h0069 Nov 11, 2007 10:19 PM

I didn't understand the question. Could you please re-write the question. Also, please proof read before you submit the question.

Rowebert Nov 12, 2007 12:32 AM

Sorry. Will repost proof read.
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2.0 Normal ball
1.2 Green Anoles
0.1 Hooded Rat
0.1 Outside Cat

djdelee Nov 12, 2007 09:14 AM

1) it is the season where balls can go off feed
2) i would offer food every week
3) if the newer, smaller ball has eaten before, then he will/should eat again
4) dont know how much the smaller ball weighs so not sure if there is a threat if it goes off feed for 3-6 mo

Rowebert Nov 12, 2007 01:01 PM

Thanks, I know I wrote a pretty incoherent message. I had a few beers and was on the phone at the time I wrote it. Time will probaly sort things out. Again, thanks.
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2.0 Normal ball
1.2 Green Anoles
0.1 Hooded Rat
0.1 Outside Cat

JenHarrison Nov 12, 2007 01:16 PM

They really shouldn't be housed together. Curling up just means they both like that spot and want to be there -- not that they "like" each other. Your temps are low, and since their metabolisms are related to their body temperature, that may be why they won't eat. Their warm spot should be 90-92 and cool side should be 80-82. Measured with a digital thermometer with probe or temp gun.

Also, I'm not sure why you killed the rat with a beebee gun, but make sure there is no beebee embedded in it before you feed it off. A large rat is pretty big for both of those snakes (900g is small, especially at 3'7" -- very skinny), be sure the smaller one doesn't regurge. They have very slow digestive systems, so odds are he's still working on it.
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~* Jen *~

Pink Lady Constrictors

Rowebert Nov 13, 2007 12:03 PM

I only have a 60w bulb over the hide. It is a 30L Critter Cage. I could use a suggestion for a bulb. I have an under tank heater, as wide as the tank and about 3/7's off the length. It used to stay warm but my house is cold. My roommate wants to buy my old tank and I'm getting the 40L for the older snake. The little snake actually digested the rat in about a week when the house was still warm. I was really surprised and relieved. They don't have frozen where I live and I just had a biting incident last time I fed live. I am going to the pet store today to get a larger bulb. I wonder about a ceramic heater also. I have a florescent light too, do they need it? The Exo-Terra lighting guide suggested one. Also, would the 30L be too big for my young snake?
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2.0 Normal ball
1.2 Green Anoles
0.1 Hooded Rat
0.1 Outside Cat

JenHarrison Nov 13, 2007 12:31 PM

I understand the prekilling, but it seems odd to be using a beebee gun.

You need to get a thermostat to control your heat pad and heat lamp -- it will make sure things stay at a specific temperature. Also try covering 3/4 of your screen top with tinfoil and they overlay with duct tape. This works well as keeping in heat and humidity.

How are you measuring temps?
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~* Jen *~

Pink Lady Constrictors

toshamc Nov 13, 2007 01:46 PM

OK first separate the two snakes.

Second - instead of pumping a bunch of heat in the tank - fix the set up that you have. 30L Critter cage comes with a screen top - cover it - you are loosing valuable heat and humidity - any piece of wood, plexiglass, even card board or foam will do (apply a layer of shelf paper on the inside to prevent water damage). Next insulate the tank - they make all kinds of foam tank inserts, back grounds that will insulate your tank beautifully - if you are strapped for cash pick up some foam from Home Depot and cut to fit the outside of your tank - try to cover at least the back the sides as well if you can. Next make sure you have the appropriate size UTH for your size tank - you can get more than one and stick it to the side to help with ambient temps as well. Ceramic or heat lamps are really a bad idea for balls. Overhead lighting is not necessary (especially since you'll be covering the top of your tank).
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Tosha
JET Pythons

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