Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find anything about it. I'm thinking about building some new enclosures, but they have to fit certain spaces so troughs are out. I would like to do wood enclosures lined with FRP, but I was wondering if it is better to finish the enclosure's main section and cut the FRP to size, or to laminate full sheets of FRP to full sheets of plywood before even making any cuts. The latter seems like it would make more sense (and be easier), but that depends on whether or not the saw blades will destroy the FRP.

I know there are some guys on here that made enclosures out of wood with FRP laminated on, so I was wondering how you did it. Also, what kind of adhesive/method of application works best? Since I'm housing torts, and nothing bigger than redfoots, I'm more concerned with protecting the wood from water and mold than from the occupants.

Thanks

Either way works fine. You can run FRP through a table saw with a regular blade no problem alone, or already glued onto the plywood.

Hey -ryan-!
On my savannah monitor enclosure I cut my plywood and FRP seperately, mostly so I could screw the plywood onto the wooden frame and have a good, strong hold. I cut & installed the plywood & then cut/installed FRP.

With torts, you could probably get away with gluing the plywood on instead of screwing it on, and therefore fasten the FRP onto the ply first & then make your cuts.

I used *Liquid Nails or a similar construction adhesive in the big tubes (larger than regular caulking tubes). Gluing FRP to ply I zig-zagged it, a lot, to cover as much of an area as I could without having to trowel it on.

* Special note:
Some tubes of liquid nails says it's not for FRP, so read the back of 'em. They do make a special FRP adhesive that I've seen in 1-gallon cans for somewhere around $12 - $15.

Assemble both panels while adhesive is still fresh and keep rubbing it down to make sure you get all the adhesive transferred and spread out good. You'll probably have to go back & rub it down a few times before it really starts holding it good.

The temperature of FRP, ply, adhesive & room needs to be all the same, and preferrably above 70 degrees (F). It will work in cooler temps but it will work you to death by not conforming easily.

Hope this helps!

Later!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

Either attach the FRP to the plywood and cut it (probably easier), or cut it then attach it. You scoop then trowl the adhesive all over the wood, then trowl it evenly. Next place the FRP on the wood, press in place, and pile each piece on itself until dry. I tried it the hard way by cutting each, then attaching them.
However you attach each piece together is up to you, I dont even frame it (no need to if each piece is attached as to pull the sides together from all directions). Seal the inside with silicone 2.

I wish I could get started on the project now. But alas, I have no money and it is snowy outside.

Unless you are talking about pre-formed plastic sheet made of polyester resin, I wonder if you mean to apply some kind of sheet to a finished cage. I've seen a roll of 3 ft wide FRP, and it was not pretty. Using polyester resin and fiberglass cloth, which would be doing your own layup will be hard and messy unless you already know how to do it. Unless I'm wrong and there's a better product, I think that Formica would work real good for you, especially if you make the boards before fastening them. The finish is super-hard, and it's not at all influenced with contact with water. Be sure to put a fillet of clear silicone in all the corners before the unit starts getting dirty. Dirty from stuff like the oils on your arms and palms. Clear silicone resin sticks incredibly well to clean smooth surfaces. Use denatured alcohol for silicone cleanup. Use alcohol to pre-clean (and let it dry in the crack) the corners to be filleted.

oops That's more than I intended to write.

Clffdvr

I have not yet seen FRP in person, but I was under the impression that the form of FRP used in this context was a rigid sheet?

The FRP most commonly found in the DIY stores are 4 x 8 sheets that are just less than 1/8 inch thick. They aren't really rigid as you can roll up a 4 x 8 sheet into a tube.

They do make FRP in rolls but you'd have to special order it or get it from a special dealer. It's true that it's not very pretty but it ain't exactly ugly, either, at least, not to me. Most DIY stores only carry the white colored panels but I have seen a few stores with the tan panels.

It's got a little bit of texture to it which can make for uneasy cleaning. Here's a link to some pics of examples: FRP Examples

Formica is a good choice and comes in more decorative, appealing finishes, but it costs more. I think it was more than double per sq, ft, than FRP, but don't hold me to that. You would need to check with local cabinet shops to see what you can get for what price.

Hang in there!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

But more semi-rigid. It can be rolled if your careful, but it makes a big round roll. The stuff is usually .090 thick and flat on one side (thats the side you stick to the wood), a rough bubbly side goes inward. It breaks without much effort alone, but once adheared to the wood it is like indestructible armor.
Take a full size pickup truck to carry the sheets of FRP and wood, get them together in one trip.