Reptile & Amphibian Forums

The first image below is of a burned ball python. The second is of a burned juvenile Burmese python. These are NOT uncommon occurrences.


As the photos above graphically illustrate, snakes will not necessarily move away when the temperature their owners provide is so high that it burns them. The problem isn’t only with hot rocks, but with any product which gets hot enough to burn living tissue. I believe that includes most heating products currently marketed for keeping herps warm. Some might say they’re inherently dangerous, but I believe all of them need not be injurious if we use them with caution.

In my own setup for instance, I wouldn’t want to use a UTH [under tank heater] that didn’t get hot enough to heat up the floor inside of a plastic cage when placed underneath it. But that means that the surface temperature of this UTH might reach 130 degrees F at full power. So I need to make sure that I measure the temperature inside the cage and use some sort of method for keeping the temperature safe there. That could mean hooking the UTH up to a proportional thermostat, an on-off thermostat, or a dimmer switch; or something as simple as elevating the cage a couple of inches above the UTH, thus leaving an air space to dissipate some heat.

In short, although I don’t like hot rocks, I’m not so certain that they are any worse than other heating products with unregulated output. I suspect just as many burns are now occurring with those stick-on style heaters which people attach to the bottom of glass aquaria. If the thing you are using for supplemental heat requires your python to lie on it, then it is up to you to make sure that the temperature measured at the point of contact doesn’t exceed 95 degrees or so.

Two answers so I won’t get these questions – No, those were not my snakes; and no, I do not know the ultimate outcome for the patients. Photos are courtesy of Stephen L. Barten, DVM, Vernon Hills Animal Hospital, Mundelein, IL.

-Joan

I agree that any type of heater needs to be regulated, either with a thermostat or a rheostat. The problem with hot rocks is that it's more difficult to do this. I have a friend that has a ball python with healed scars on her belly. When she coils a certain way you can even tell what kind of hot rock it was because the shape is branded into her belly. I'm currently using flex watt heat tape down the back of the rack rather then underneath the cages. Seems to be working well and I believe that it may be safer for the animals then having the heat directly underneath.

VOT

...unfortunately burn injuries are one of the most common reasons people bring reptiles to vets. Scott J. Michaels DVM

Not only do I keep a thermometer moved around to measure temp variance throughout(BEFORE the python is moved to the new area), but I find it a good rule of thumb to put your hand directly on the heat source (on the inside of the tank) for at LEAST four seconds. If you can do that with no discomfort, then you should be okay. I agree with the previous post though, I recently switched to racks with 11" flexwatt down the back and it gets around 88 - 92 degrees in the hot end of the rack...what I consider optimal high range. Just my 2cents.
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thx,
ru4pythons

They still sell hot rocks?? I thought those things disappeared 10 years ago?

I can't believe anyone would use one. There must be a TON of crappy information out there.

Poor snakes, especially the Ball. I sometimes wonder if snakes even feel pain. I' currently giving my Boa shots, and she doesnt even move when I inject. Funny.

I haven't found a reptile supplies manufacturer that does not make hot rocks. Some claim to have new super-duper safe hot rocks, but STILL... geez.
I've had snakes that definately reacted to shots, so I'm pretty sure they can feel it . You must have a macho boa.