Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does a ceramic heat emitter emit the same amount of heat as a incandescent bulb of the same wattage? Thanks.

i use both i like the ceramic a lot more it seems to heat the air temp a lot better and not dry cages out as much. as far as surface temps the incandescent work a lot better to make a basking area for lizards and such i have 6 snakes and much prefer ceramic emitters for my snakes. you jsut ahev to be careful where you buy the ceramic at because many pet shops they are very over priced 40$ at petsmart for a 100 watt ceramic that same brand and wattage at reptilesuplly.com is 16$.
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1.1 jungle carpets
1.1 sumatran bloods
1.1 het albino rtb

Comparing Pearlco CHE's to regular incandescent light bulbs (i.e. not halogen's or MVB incandescents), the CHE's are hotter. I have heard some of the other brands of CHE's do not get as hot at a given wattage.

I also prefer CHE's. They seem to spread the heat better and the animals just seem to prefer them. I think there may even be data to back this up (my observation is just anecdotal).
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Currently keeping a small collection of various Gonyosoma. Both G. janseni and G. oxycephala.

>>Does a ceramic heat emitter emit the same amount of heat as a incandescent bulb of the same wattage? Thanks.

I don't know about the same. From experience I would say a bit more, and for sure, more directed downward as opposed to to the side.

Snakes seem to willingly bask under CHE's. I would almost say they prefer that type of heat wavelength to light bulbs simply by judging what I have seen in captivity. I mean, Ive seen the ball python I had actually come out of his hide to use a CHE. Now that says something. Rosy boas used them as well. I've tried CHEs for colubrids, boas, pythons all with great success. Too bad CHE surface temps get so hot. They can be a safety hazard for toddlers.
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Mark

....have you had the same type of experience with RHPs? Do RHPs and CHEs create the same heat wavelengths? In the past I have always used light bulbs to heat from overhead but since everyone raves about RHPs I have been considering going that route with the next couple of cages that I get.

One of my real concerns with RHP, though, is thermostat probe placement. It seems to me that since it has to be in the cage there is a real risk of the snake moving it and then having the cage overheat. Any thoughts/expreriences? With lightbulbs I always just played around with the wattage until I got the temps I wanted and did not worry about thermostats.

I appreciate any input you may have. Also, I appreciate you comments below on the Mexican milks and cage style. Thanks.

Rob

Thank you for the kind words.

The benefits with RHPs:
1. They provide radiant heat over a large area for a reasonable wattage, meaning you can heat a large boa or python with just a single RHP for less watts than say using 2 lamps.

2. The surface temps of an RHP are low enough to not cause tissue damage if you touch it. Meaning an RHP mounted inside a cage poses no burn danger to the snake's nose.

3. They last a long time - like 10 years of use. The up-front cost seems high, but there are no recurring costs like there are with changing expired light bulbs.

I do not know if CHEs are better than light bulbs, since many herpers use lights with fantastic results. I do know that CHEs are very effective with even ground-dwelling snakes like rosies and kings. That doesn't say that regular lights aren't. I wouldn't look to changing what you have unless there is some other driver.

I use them because of the great results I've had and the fact that they do not give off light. My temp controllers are pulse-proportional. That is, they turn the heater on and off in pulses to result in a stable temperature. With a light, it is annoying to see the flickering. No such problem with a CHE. And I think they work better than undertank heating. There, I said it. I have zero scientific data to support that comment. A snake's blood is warmed very effectively with a CHE. As that blood courses through the body, it warms the snake entirely. And the snake can move slightly (or alot) and achieve any temp it needs to between ambient and right under the heater. So, it works and works well. Lots more expensive to implement though.
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Mark

Thanks Mark,

I am in the process of getting some new cages, rather than racks, so I figured now would be the time to go with something like RHPs if I was going to go that route. The more I think about it, the more I feel like I will.

You mentioned using proportional thermostats and I have always used proportional for the heat tape/rope in my racks. Can you tell me where you place your temperature probe and/or how you secure it so the snake does not move it? In a rack, I can always place it outside of the tub and adjust accordingly. It seems like with an RHP the probe would have to be in the cage and I can't think of how to keep it from moving and creating a possible overheating situation. Thanks again for your help.

Rob

Hi Rob,
With overhead heat, it isn't very crucial that the probe be exactly in one spot below the heater. In the general area is usually fine as long as you choose a controller setpoint to match.

The farther the probe is from the heated area, a lower the setpoint should be chosen. And of course the closer the probe is to the heater, a higher setpoint (up to max basking temp)should be selected.

For the above scenario, I choose the middle ground. I let the probe hang freely in the cage just brushing the ground a few inches away from what would be directly under the beam of heat energy radiating down. This way, the snake moving the probe a little here or there does not result in a dangerous change. And it is near impossibe for a snake to get tangled in a free-hanging small cable.

Another approach I have used with plastic cages is to drill a hole on the cage back just above the substrate level and insert the probe in an area near but not directly under the heater beam. The snake can move the probe obviously but again not far enough to cause a dangerous condition.
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Mark

Just want to point out that it isn't impossible for an RHP to cause a burn. Dress your cables properly. I had a GTP that managed to pull himself through a cable and he perched there for awhile, he was basically wedged against the side of the panel. Later that evening he was going "wild" in the cage. the next morning I noticed tissue damage from burns.

Being tangled in wire while contacting any heater could cause a problem. Good point about securing the wires properly.
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Mark