Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I just finished building a bigger cage for one of my BRBs (I'm going to start on the next one soon). Right now, I'm trying to get the right temperature before I put her in there. I'm using a Zoo Med UTH for 50-60 gallon aquariums on the far left end. I have a couple of towels on the bottom of the cage to reduce the heat some.

Even with that, it's 92 degrees over the heat source and at the cool end, it's a chilly 68 degrees. These temperatures are without having the overhead light on. I ordered a rheostat to control the intensity of the heat pad, but I'm wondering how to warm up the cool end, because that's too cold, right? Any suggestions would be greatful.

Oh, and the inside dimensions of the cage are 4' wide 2' deep and 18" tall. One more thing: what do you guys think about towels as bedding? Has anyone tried this out before?

Thanks!!

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Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Nice looking cage. The heat on these cages MUST be regulated. I used to do it with a cheap dimmer switch you can buy at any hardware store. But, as the seasons changed (or even when it went form night to day) I had to adjust the switch. There was a lot of room for error.

Now, I use proportional thermostats with remote sensors. You can order one here:

lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-and-thermostats/-/helix-dbs1000-proportional-thermostat/

or here:

www.spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat.html

Either unit will work well. Don't let the price intimidate you. This is a very valuable piece of equipment when keeping snakes and you'l be glad you invested in one. Whoever invented the proportional thermostat did all of us a huge favor.
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Mike Lockwood
www.tooscaley.com

That won't do anything for the cold side though, will it?
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Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Generally, we don't worry about the cool end of the cage. I maintain a hotspot of 84 - 86° and the cool side is what it is. This method has served very well for a long time. I even notice that during the pre-breeding period, females and males will leave the heat and cool themselves down.

Take a look at my site. I have a fairly thourough section on caging and heating. let us know if you have more questions.

www.tooscaley.com/reptiles/BrazilianRainbowBoas/CaptiveCare.html
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Mike Lockwood
www.tooscaley.com

what is your cage made of? you are heating with a UTH how is this installed (are you heating through 3/4" plywood?)
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-Stephen-

0.1 soon to be wifey (hopefully)
1.0 rotwiler/chow (Boomer-wifey's pooch)
1.0 norm corn (Jake aka grumpy old terdhead)
0.1 col redtail boa (Dixie-my baby girl)
0.1 ball python (Bella- wifey's baby girl)

hopeful for not to distant future:
--brazillian rainbow boas 1 female for sure
2 or 3? maybe a breeding pair?

more distant future hopefuls
1 or 2 of each maybe a breeding pair?
--anery boa (ooooh)
--jungle carpet python (love to have 1 or 2)
--dumeril boa (ahhhh)

slightly more wishful thinking
--hypo br rainbow boa (love em)
--anery br rainbow boa (oooh even better!!)
--motely boa (gorgeous!!)

The cage is made out of MDF, but I have cut a hole in the bottom for plexiglass and that is what the UTH is mounted on.
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Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Listen to Mike, ditch the rheostat and get a proportional thermostat with probe from Helix or Herpstat.

Get a digital temp gun (fun toy at least if you don't use it a lot)

It is 92 degrees when dry and on top of the towels but what if the brb gets under the towels to hide cuz we all know they love to hide cuz they do it more than half their lives. What if the towel(s) gets wet and then the temp is even higher. Don't believe me then turn on the oven with a pan in there wait for 30 minutes and get that pan out with wet towels or wet oven mitts (no really don't do that cuz you will burn the sh-t out of yourself)

Try not to use an overhead heat lamp unless it is a last resort cuz this does tend to dry out the air. Heat lamps are very doable in very large enclosures and they will have a temp gradient. If these are adults the humidity requirement is much less than babies or juvies. In small enclosures the heat lamp will work but definately provide the option of a humid hide in the 80-83 degree range would be awesome and easily achievable with a proportional thermostat.

Always use good caging or material to build that will retain heat such as MDF or polyethylene or some other sort of plastic. This will ensure that heat is not lost due to poor caging material, big vents.....

The best way for humidity is to limit ventilation.

The low part is in the 60's then a space heater in the room is in order.

I would try using flexwatt already hooked up for you for about $10-15 from Bean Farm and there is another place that will hook it for you and send it to you in one piece so you would just need to secure the flexwatt with tape (preferrably foil tape), secure probe and wire connecting the probe (I use rubber silicone sealant), and plug that thing into a proportional thermostat or at least a on/off thermostat like Ranco.

hope it helps
Bob

The overhead light is just for light during the day. I did use MDF to build it and the only ventillation I have is a 13" X 18" screen I put on the top of the cage and I made sure to seal all of the corners and edges of the cage. If that hole sounds too big, I can cover some of it, no problem.

Thanks for all of the info.
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Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

13" x 18" is HUGE. My cages are roughly half the size you described and each has a 2" round vent. The individual sections are joined together with 4" PVC.

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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Wow, you're right! I covered the vent for 5 minutes and it's already getting warmer on the cool end.

Thanks everyone!!!
-----
Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Hey Rachel, can't see the pics, even tried copy/paste the URL and no luck, so without visuals to go on....

Like Mike posted the helix DBS 1000 is a great unit for a single cage. For multiple cages (even two) I'd recommend the spyder Robotics Herpstat Pro, has 4 proportional channels (room to grow) each with it's own probe and outlet. And built in night drop!!

Basic rule of thumb on the heat pad, should be 1/4 of the cage floor (up to 1/3 is fine, could even go 1/2 but that is overkill)

Assuming your UTH is not undersized, what about ventilation? Most good BRB cages have very little ventilation. I've seen cages with top and bottom vents on the warm side have that never get warm on the cool side problem. Again, just babbling since I've not seen your cage.....
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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Hmm, not sure why you can't see the pictures. But, to answer your questions:

The heat pad is about 18" X 8", so I'd say it only covers about 1/3 of the cage or so. I have is a 13" X 18" screen I put on the top of the cage and I made sure to seal all of the corners and edges of the cage. If that hole sounds too big, I can cover some of it, no problem. Oh and the screen is on the same side as the UTH.
-----
Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Yeah, vent is way to big IMO, and being over the heat pad is likely allowing the heat to rise straight out of the cage. I'd prefer the vent to be MUCH smaller and on the side wall of the cool end.

With the cage size (and daily open door to check/clean), it could almost be airtight and still be fine. NOT recommended!!!
-----
Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Hi Rachel. I'm probably the only person on this forum that uses dimmer switches and has absolutly no problem with them. I live in a poorly insulated 150 year old house in the midwest were the temps inside can vary 20 degrees from winter to summer, so if anyone should dislike useing them it should be me.
I don't adjust the temperatures in my cages nearly as often as people might think, infact, from Oct. to March the temps in my house are the most stable and I will rarely if ever make an adjustment. Most people I know, thanks to heating and air conditioning, their temps don't vary 10 degrees year round so it would be even less of an issue.
I keep my adults in 4 foot Vision cages with a temp gradiant that varys thruout the year but the warm end is usually between 84 and 90. Some people will say 90 is to warm but my snakes have hides at both ends of their cage and some times they choose the warmest spot even if it's 90. I think 90 is to warm for babies.
With the temp gradiant you have, if the temperature in your house went up or down 5 degrees I wouldn't make any adjustments because your snake will still be able to find an area were it's comfortable.
IMO if you don't provide a temp gradiant AND the temps in your house vary a great deal then I would say definatly get a thermostat. If your inside temps are fairly stable or you provide a large temp gradiant then I don't see the point in spending the money on a thermostat.
I've been keeping BRBs for almost 5 years and I'm still controlling the heat to most of the 33 that I have with dimmer switches and I have had zero health issues.

Dan

Hmm, I might try the rheostat and if that doesn't work out for me, I'll look into the thermostats.

Thanks for the info!
-----
Rachel Squier

Currently have:
1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)

On the way:
1.0 '07 Albino BCI
0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

Not disagreeing with you aty all Dan, I've had my BRB's on dimmers for much longer than I've used thermostats and for the most part it worked just fine. The difference being more attention has to be paid to the actual temps and adjustments made.

I like having thermostats better as I can more precisely control temps and if there is a fluctuation in the house they will automatically compensate for it.
-----
Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

The point I was trying to make was that if you can provide a large temperature gradient, you actually don’t have to spend a lot of time monitoring your temps and making adjustments. If the temperature in my house goes up or down 5 degrees I really don’t care because I know that my snakes still have a range of temps to choose from were they will be comfortable, even if I don’t make an adjustment.
Some times I go months with out making adjustments and when I do adjust the temps it’s usually based on simple observation. If my snakes are spending to much time on the cool side of the cage I turn the dial down a bit. If they are always on the warmest side I turn it up a bit. If they are using the whole cage then I probably have the best temps I can provide. The way I see it, I’m already right there cleaning the cage or feeding the snake or just watching it, how much effort does it take to turn a dial when it’s right there in front of me. It’s certainly not worth paying $130 for a thermostat. Like I already said, if I kept my snakes in a cage with no temp gradient I would absolutely use a thermostat. I also wouldn’t learn a thing about what temps my snakes liked.

Dan

Dan,
...I have to agree with you. I used dimmers in cages long before I had basic on/off thermostats and then later proportional thermostats. You are paying attrention to the detials and providing a temperature gradient so the snakes can select the temperature they want and watching them to see where they spend most time and then adjusting when needed.
Jeff

>>The point I was trying to make was that if you can provide a large temperature gradient, you actually don’t have to spend a lot of time monitoring your temps and making adjustments. If the temperature in my house goes up or down 5 degrees I really don’t care because I know that my snakes still have a range of temps to choose from were they will be comfortable, even if I don’t make an adjustment.
>> Some times I go months with out making adjustments and when I do adjust the temps it’s usually based on simple observation. If my snakes are spending to much time on the cool side of the cage I turn the dial down a bit. If they are always on the warmest side I turn it up a bit. If they are using the whole cage then I probably have the best temps I can provide. The way I see it, I’m already right there cleaning the cage or feeding the snake or just watching it, how much effort does it take to turn a dial when it’s right there in front of me. It’s certainly not worth paying $130 for a thermostat. Like I already said, if I kept my snakes in a cage with no temp gradient I would absolutely use a thermostat. I also wouldn’t learn a thing about what temps my snakes liked.
>>
>>Dan

Rachel,
...68 at the cool end of a four foot cage is not too cold. With that length in a cage the temperature gradient will let the snake decide what temperature it wants. You could drop the temperature at the hot end some with either a dimmer or a thermostat or insulation or a metal plate between the heater and the cage to spread the warm spot out making it larger but less intense. I like proportional thermostats but they are expensive and they are not the only way to heat a cage.
Jeff

>>I just finished building a bigger cage for one of my BRBs (I'm going to start on the next one soon). Right now, I'm trying to get the right temperature before I put her in there. I'm using a Zoo Med UTH for 50-60 gallon aquariums on the far left end. I have a couple of towels on the bottom of the cage to reduce the heat some.
>>
>>Even with that, it's 92 degrees over the heat source and at the cool end, it's a chilly 68 degrees. These temperatures are without having the overhead light on. I ordered a rheostat to control the intensity of the heat pad, but I'm wondering how to warm up the cool end, because that's too cold, right? Any suggestions would be greatful.
>>
>>Oh, and the inside dimensions of the cage are 4' wide 2' deep and 18" tall. One more thing: what do you guys think about towels as bedding? Has anyone tried this out before?
>>
>>Thanks!!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>-----
>>Rachel Squier
>>
>>Currently have:
>>1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)
>>
>>On the way:
>>1.0 '07 Albino BCI
>>0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
>>0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI

>>Rachel,
>>...68 at the cool end of a four foot cage is not too cold. With that length in a cage the temperature gradient will let the snake decide what temperature it wants. You could drop the temperature at the hot end some with either a dimmer or a thermostat or insulation or a metal plate between the heater and the cage to spread the warm spot out making it larger but less intense. I like proportional thermostats but they are expensive and they are not the only way to heat a cage.
>>Jeff
>>
>>>>I just finished building a bigger cage for one of my BRBs (I'm going to start on the next one soon). Right now, I'm trying to get the right temperature before I put her in there. I'm using a Zoo Med UTH for 50-60 gallon aquariums on the far left end. I have a couple of towels on the bottom of the cage to reduce the heat some.
>>>>
>>>>Even with that, it's 92 degrees over the heat source and at the cool end, it's a chilly 68 degrees. These temperatures are without having the overhead light on. I ordered a rheostat to control the intensity of the heat pad, but I'm wondering how to warm up the cool end, because that's too cold, right? Any suggestions would be greatful.
>>>>
>>>>Oh, and the inside dimensions of the cage are 4' wide 2' deep and 18" tall. One more thing: what do you guys think about towels as bedding? Has anyone tried this out before?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----
>>>>Rachel Squier
>>>>
>>>>Currently have:
>>>>1.1 '03? BRBs (Blaze and Shimmer)
>>>>
>>>>On the way:
>>>>1.0 '07 Albino BCI
>>>>0.2 '07 100% Het Albino BCIs
>>>>0.1 '07 DH Sunglow BCI