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Observations on RI in pythons....

Kelly_Haller Feb 02, 2008 03:40 PM

Having seen numerous postings over the last few weeks on RI in pythons, I thought I would post a few comments on the subject. Laura made a good observation a few days ago about environmental stressors in captivity and on the fact that the causitive organisms are ever present.

More than 95% of all captive boas and pythons are already carrying the gram negative bacteria that are the cause of most RI’s in captive boids. If one of the pythons in a collection has an RI, then the entire collection has already been exposed to that causative organism well before the symptoms showed. This would be primarily from previous exposure from the source it was acquired, or from simple maintenance procedures within your own collection. The reason that these organisms typically don’t cause issues is that unless the animal is physically or environmentally stressed in some manner, the organism is kept in check by the snakes immune system. The main stressors include sub-optimal temps, high or low; sub-optimal humidity, high or low; or lack of security causing nervousness and stress, etc., to name a few. A healthy, non-stressed python will not acquire an RI from contact with an infected python. If it does, then it is under the same stressors that compromised the initial infected python originally.

Seeing that the organisms are already present, if RI’s are showing up in a collection, then look for the stressor source that is compromising the animal and weakening it’s immune system to the point that the bacteria are able to multiply unchecked. Too low humidity is probably almost as common a stressor as temps that are too low or too high as far as respiratory issues with pythons. The biggest issue is in the winter when temps are kicked up slightly in collections and the warm cage interiors rapidly drive humidity out into the low humidity room. Because the amount of water vapor the air can hold increases rapidly with temperature, the relative humidity actually decreases rapidly with increasing temperature, unless the evaporation potential can be met. This means that unless the rate of evaporation can keep up with the demand for moisture brought on by the rising air temperature, there will be a rapid net loss in relative humidity within the cage. Unless you have a good source of cage humidity in the drier winter months, you can sometimes risk RI’s in your collection even when maintaining optimal temps. And that brings up the point that you should never lower humidity on a python with an RI. Low humidity air dries the lung tissue of tropical pythons and this damages the tissue making it more susceptible to bacterial infection. I’m not saying keep it overly high, but in the 60% to 75% range depending on the species. When temps are good, sometimes the appearance of initial RI symptoms are caused by lung irritation due to low humidity, and many times it can be resolved before progressing into an actual RI by raising the cage humidity and maintaining temps in the proper range. Usually this initial phase manifests itself as opened mouth breathing without the presence of heavy mucous as is seen with an actual RI. However, observe closely so the appropriate action can be taken if the problem progresses.

Kelly

Replies (7)

rottenweiler9 Feb 02, 2008 05:07 PM

Nice post. What are some good ways of raising the humidity, for people who use newspaper/kraft paper.

Second question. At about 3 years of age is when my two showed signs of it. The only true sign was clear bubbles from the mouth after being held. With my burm I thought nothing of it and then found her dead. I learned the second time around when my Retic got it. Just curious if nothing changes in the cage from this time, why all of a sudden can they get it.

Scary thing is the burm who died last year was housed below the retic who got sick this year.

Thanks again

Jeff
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0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

HappyHillbilly Feb 03, 2008 10:44 AM

Good post, Kelly. Well written, thorough, and informative.

Thanks!
Mike
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

rottenweiler9 Feb 03, 2008 02:59 PM

For those who live in cold places in the winter, and have to crank the temps up to keep at the right spot, what tricks of the trade can you use to up the humitity, in a large cold basement temps around 65-69 right about now. Using Vision or AP cages. Thats of course after you block off the back.

I do not like misting because it does not really think it helps but temparaily.

Ideas?

Thanks
-----
0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

Kelly_Haller Feb 04, 2008 01:25 AM

Mike - Thanks again, these were just some issues with RI that I have experienced and read about over the years and hopefully will be of help to some.

Jeff - I agree with you that typical misting is not very effective coming from a standard hand sprayer. The volume and droplet size are too small. I use a one gallon yard chemical sprayer (new of course) that is much more effective. It will put out a spray volume in a few seconds equal to what a hand mister will put out in a minute. During times when air humidity is low, spray the cage walls and floor with enough water that the droplets and floor moisture will last at least half a day before evaporating. If the moisture lasts much longer, cut back on the volume. The other issue is that when using these spray volumes, the cage substrate must be clean of any feces or urates. Additionally, you can use distilled bottled water in the sprayer to avoid any hard water spotting issues on the cage interior or glass. I have had good luck with this method for boids showing respiratory signs of low ambient humidity or with snakes that have shedding issues. Also, take care to monitor cage temps to keep them in the appropriate ranges. There are other methods of cage humidity control, but I have found this one to work quite well.

Kelly

rottenweiler9 Feb 04, 2008 08:48 AM

I guess that is where I mess up. I am not sure if I use to much water and soak it to much. I had one of those things, and they do work well. I broke mine though. Hahahahaha. I will use the sprayer again in the morning, and then at night if needed.

Question.

Should the substrate be dry at the half day point or damp. I am afraid that I will make it to wet and lead to skin issues or RI because of the mold.

I use Kraft paper.

Thank you again, you always are a big help.

Jeff
-----
0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

Kelly_Haller Feb 04, 2008 06:01 PM

It should be fairly well dry by the half day point. As you stated, if it is wet the majority of the time, a mold issue could develop. A consistently wet substrate with any feces or urates present can cause a bacterial issue. There will usually be enough ambient humidity in the second half of the day to be sufficient even with a fairly dry substrate within 12 hours or so after spraying.

Kelly

rottenweiler9 Feb 04, 2008 08:38 PM

We will give it a go. Thank you
-----
0.2 Rotts
1.0 Super Tiger
1.0 Amel Retic
0.1 Ball Python
0.1 Red Tail
0.1 Blood Python
1.0 Green Ananconda
1.0 Emerald Tree Boa

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