Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ive looked through about 40 Pages, searched, and gotten nowhere. I have a few questions that have probably been asked and answered hundreds of times. Please forgive me! (Im new!)

I just got a Male Boa C.C. Approx a year old. Tiny guy. 40 gallon breeder tank for now, screen top with an old glass window minus the frame for covering the top to prevent heat/humidity loss. I have an Exo-Terra Medium UTH, 100w Basking Lamp, and a Rheostat, a Corning Ware water dish, heh, and a single large hide.

I am having a hard time keeping the warm side of the cage around 90, and the cool side around 80. Also my humidity stays about 50% all the time, after I mist the humidity will rise obviously, slowly it will fall. Currently i have the UTH off with the basking lamp on the rheostat set to about 25% - I can get the hot side to around 90-94 and the cold side stays around 75. Im not sure how I should set it up. >What temperature range should I have? >Is this an ok Range? He seems to like to wedge him-self between the hide and the glass. I dont know if this is normal. >How should i setup the UTH and the lamp? >Would the UTH be enough to keep the humidity and temp high enough? >What temp should it be? I have a digital therm and hygro with probe's. Where should the probes be for opitmal temp and humidity checking? Currently I have them in the center of the tank near the substrate. I also have a Raytec Infrared Thermometer for spot checking and surface temp checking.

I hate to sound new and annoying for asking the same questions. I just want my little guy to have a good home!

I have kept boas in tanks out of necessity several times.I never had one get sick or die on me.You don't need to have the cool side at 80,72 to 75 is how I keep mine.On the hot side it is in the low 90's.I use 2 water bowls,1 on each side.I keep a spot light above one bowl that create's constant humidity.I put an under tank heater on the same side as the water dish with the light on it,but a little more towards the center.I then put the hide box in the middle.Again your cool side should be in the low to mid 70's and your hot side in the low 90's.Use a big hide box and you will notice your boa will use the inside of the hide box to thermoregulate when hiding.Others will disagree with this,but when using glass tanks has always worked for me.All my animals have always shed in 1 pc.Keep in mind this will work only while your boa is small.Its best to get out of the glass tank as soon as you can.Hope something here helps you.

If I understand your question correctly, here's my suggestion --
Do not use an incandescent light as a heat source.
That is where your problem lies.
Get an under the tank heater.
80 deg.F cool side. 90 deg.F on the warm side.
That's just my opinion based on my personal experience.
Good luck.
jsc
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"As hard as I've tried, just can't NOT do this"
John Crickmer

Hello,John nailed your problem right on the head.The bulb is causing you problems.Your humidity loss is due to the bulb an the screen lid,Simple cheap sulution would be to duct tape the whole screen lid except for 2 inches along the back perimeter of it.This will help with your humidity problem a bit.Plug your utm into the reostat an use that to regulate your temps 90 degree hot an 80 degree cool,as far as probe placement for your thermometer,lay it right over the heat tape.An even better solution is got to your local walmart,target ot what have you an get you a steralite of propper size.An set it up as advised above an throw that tank in the trash.You will have less problems with the steralite an you shouldnt even need that incadesent light at all.Hope this helps.
Eric & Dorothea

Basking lights will dry your humidity up BIG TIME and aren't necessary as boas really don't bask. I would do what the others said and use the UTH. If that doesn't get the temps up enough you can try just a red heat bulb or one of the blue nighttime bulbs or you can get a radiant heat panel. The radiant heat panels tend to increase ambient temperatures better.

I have kept boas in tanks before too and yes I was able to, but it took a lot of effort on my part to keep temp/humidity where they should be. I would lose the tank sooner rather than later. 1radsunglow had a good idea with getting a Sterilite or Rubbermaid clear container and affixing the UTH to the bottom, which is usually enough to heat those. You'll want to drill a few holes (not too many!) to allow SOME air circulation if you go that route.

Didn't want to bring this up before, but yes, the Sterilite tub would be much better. The Under the Tank Heater can be purchased at any reptile specialty pet shop, Petsmart, Petco, etc. Same as the rheostat you're using.
If you do go the Sterilite container route, you can still use the incandescent light bulb. Here's what you do -- place the bulb in a clamp lamp or free standing desk lamp. Place that lamp at one end of your Sterilite tub. This will be the warm end. The amount of radiant heat generated will determine the distance to place the lamp away from the tub. Do NOT shine the light directly at the tub, as this may overheat and cause the plastic tub to melt, become a fire hazard, and may injure or kill your snake. Shine the lamp toward the base of the container, but not directly at it.
Hope this makes sense.
Also, use paper towels for a substrate if you do go the Sterilite container option. Baby snakes appreciate the security of the smaller confinement and the opaque nature of the container for its seclusion.
Good luck.
jsc
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"As hard as I've tried, just can't NOT do this"
John Crickmer

You guys sterlite tub idea sounds better than what I'm doing,but I have a couple ?'s.1-Would you still spray them every day? I have a metal rack that my tanks are on and I should be able to put the flexwatt right on the rack.If I do and set it to 90,how much of the tub would you put over the flexwatt?