Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all...

Im not new to obsoleta specie at all. And I have never really ever had one that would not eat. I just aquired my first everglades, and hes around 4ft, and looks healthy.

However I have offered live,f/T, freshly pre killed, mice and small rats to no avail. He acts interested, but 2 out of the 4 unsuccesful times he appears to regurge a clear fluid, i assume water at it usually sticks around his mouth, he then redrinks the liquid and just whatched the rodent, then re-bury hiself in the aspen. He is an 40 gallon tank with hides. I do not have any under tank heat on him as of yet. My herp room is around 70-75degrees. I just wonder if heat could be a factor? I have some more flex-watt ordered just havent got it yet.

Any thoughts from the experienced???
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My herps..
1.1 Amel bloodred corns
1.1 reverse okeetees
1.0 normal corn
1.0 Anery
1.2 Amel corn
1.1 Jasper county Okettee's(YES true locale specimens)
2.0 American alligators
0.1 Northern Copperhead
1.2 Timber rattlesnakes(canebrake phase)
2.3 black rat snakes
2.2 eastern hogs
1.0 Everglades rat
1.1 yellow rat
1.2 Albino monocled cobra

The more he regurges the worse it will be. Dose he seem to sneeze or make clicking sounds or gape? If he dose this could mean a resp. infection. Snakes only have one functional lung. So a resp infection must be addressed A.S.A.P. How did you obtain this snake. If it was via mail It could have been exposed to really cold temps this time of year, and the stress of shipping together could have caused an illness. I know spot lights are a No No. But I have had some really delecate snakes that came in with resp. infections and I allways used a 40 watt lightbulb for a short period of time. I kept a cool side with a hide and a basking spot with the bulb. This method workrd 100% of the time and the snake was cured. After the snakes were cured I went back to regular heating methods. It seems the bulbs also dry out any humidity in the tank. Snakes with a resp. infection should not be exposed to regular humidity. One time I had a small red pigmy rattle snake That kept regurging. But he did not have any of those symptoms you mention. I called my vet and he came over my house with a scale to weigh the snake. Then he made up sevral injections of Fertaz.(I think that is how it is spelled. Dont hold me to it.) I gave the snake an injection every 3 days for about 2 weeks. The snake recovered fine. The vet said this drug workrd on a number of sicknesses that could affect reptiles. Including resp. infections as well as other infections. My friend also used this on a corn snake and an eastern box turtle and had success. You may want to ask a vet about it. I would not wait too long. Once a snake starts tenting (that is where you can pinch their skin and it stays pinched) it is hard to have them recover. This is just my experience, I am not a vet or expert but these methods have worked for me many times. Good luck and keep me posted. Greg

He now has a light on him.. still waiting on flexx. I put a light on him the day you left a reply. He was purchased from a dealer in FLA. He was shipped with heat packs. He seems more alert now, and frequents out more. I tried another F/T mouse earlier tonight, still not interested. Im gonna try another live mouse this weekend. There is no sign of denting, I checked that first thing when i noticed he was regurging fluid. Respitory infection crossed my mind, however I wasnt sure. I trust the person i got him from, and he says he ate a live mouse 2 weeks before he shipped him. So hopefully in time he will eat.

thanks

Mike
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My herps..
1.1 Amel bloodred corns
1.1 reverse okeetees
1.0 normal corn
1.0 Anery
1.2 Amel corn
1.1 Jasper county Okettee's(YES true locale specimens)
2.0 American alligators
0.1 Northern Copperhead
1.2 Timber rattlesnakes(canebrake phase)
2.3 black rat snakes
2.2 eastern hogs
1.0 Everglades rat
1.1 yellow rat
1.2 Albino monocled cobra

Clear fluids being spit up can be a sign of lung worm. With the fluids seen and the regurge I would at the very least raise the heat way up to over 80 (80-84) for the cage and a hot spot near 90(88-92). I would also strongly recommend a vet visit. If it is a glades from a dealer in Florida there is a good chance that the snake has seen the wild and with that it raises the chance of parasites. Lung worms left untreated will result in a prolonged death. If treated incorrectly it can lead to a quick death, so research your vet and make sure he is experienced.

Of course being that this is a online guess I could be completely wrong but I have seen a few collections with lung worm and it showed itself with regurges and clear fluid discharge. Fresh dead snakes would have worms in the mouth as they tried to escape. Not pretty!!!

Jason

I meant to add that anorexic animals usually have other issues like parasites. In another totally different direction it is winter and if the snake was ever wild it would not want to eat right now anyway and it won't for a couple months. Basically it could be many things and I am just giving you worst case.

Jason

Well,

After another regurge last night, i called my vet who is a freind. I met up with him this morning and gave him the snake. I took a sample of the fluid that came up and gave it to Russ. He says that it looks to be like some puss from the lung in there. Russ also said that his "posture" looks good, he said he has seen worse.

Ill keep yall updated for those that are interested.
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My herps..
1.1 Amel bloodred corns
1.1 reverse okeetees
1.0 normal corn
1.0 Anery
1.2 Amel corn
1.1 Jasper county Okettee's(YES true locale specimens)
2.0 American alligators
0.1 Northern Copperhead
1.2 Timber rattlesnakes(canebrake phase)
2.3 black rat snakes
2.2 eastern hogs
1.0 Everglades rat
1.1 yellow rat
1.2 Albino monocled cobra