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I need advice on a cage set up for a baby borneo... It would be great if anybody can share some pictures..Do they require a special type of light? Thanks

borneo short tails, sumatran short tails and bloods all have similar needs...

th best set up would be a well ventilated rubbermaid sweater box, i used #2221, the 7 gallon sweater box. its aprox 23 x 17 x 6, should last about a yea, posibly longer with a borneo, they dont get as big as bloods so you never know. i melt about 20 holes on each of the short ends and 3 to 5 on each long side.
uncolored paper towels as a substrate, a couple of pieces of cork bark and a container full of mois moss big enugh for the snake to sit in, a small under tank heater on a thermostat provides heat. i mist once or twice a week...its true that short tails and bloods need higher humidity...fine in nature, in captivity it can be an issue, to raise the humidity you have to comprimise vntilation. and short tails and bloods need very good ventilation, but...problem solved...the box full of moist moss provides an area of high humidity while allowing the snake to leave the box ad dry off. keep your temps at about 78 on the cool end 85 or so on the warm end and 95 or so on the hot spot...always have a bowl of clean clear water available...ill post pics of my white lipped pythons cage tonight, its the exact same set up i use for blood python babies.

This is what my blood was in when she was younger. I am using cypress mulch here... but it should not be this wet. I happen to take the pic after I spilled water when cleaning. Under the hide box... on the other side of the cage (not on the inside) is a heating pad. That is keeping her warm end at about 87 degrees. It's better to use newspaper with a new baby anyways. This way you can really monitor external parasites and poops.
Remember humidity is a very important factor in raising these animals successfully. 70-80 per cent is idea for the young ones. Keeping them in a sweater box (tupperware) is about the best way to retain humidity.
Also, no there is no special lighting required for this species (or I believe any boid) as they are nocturnal. In fact, I don't even use heat bulbs on my bloods because it dries out the animal and bedding too quickly.

Here is a shot of the way i keep my small python Curtus.
I agree with jaymz when using rubbermaids, paper towel is the best as well as good ventilation.
I however, have a hot spot of 86-87 and an ambient of 78-80...
I have found that anything higher and most bloods will choose the cooler side 95% of the time. However these are my experiences and what has worked for me. I have noticed much more thermoregulation from side to side with these temps after feedings, in shed, etc....

As long as your baby stays healthy, dont fix what aint broken.
ambient humidity of 65-75% is ideal.
Two hides are very important, go with the humidity box as mentioned if you cant quite keep the ambient high enough on the cool side of the enclosure. i prefer to keep my hides identical on either end, so you may want to keep some dry spagnum in the hide of the hotter side so that your snake doesn't choose solely the cool side hide because of its extra security (the spagnum)
Water bowls great in the middle of the enclosure, if humidity permits as this is the center of traffic. I have to keep mine on the hot side to keep up my humidity.
Water changes are great daily if you have the time, as bloods love fresh water, but every other day or twice a week is ok as well.

weekly soaks of about an hour in a tub of luke warm water high enough that your snake can fully submerge but low enough that it does not have to struggle to keep its head above water, will aid in keeping its scales dimple free, as well as perfect sheds.
During shed time, soak it while its skin is opaque as well as a couple days after its skin has gone back to normal colouration, right before its shed.

if your using a UTH, do use a thermostat, as they can reach very high temps if left uncontrolled.

Good luck with your new baby!!

Grant