Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I purchased a Mali about a week and a half ago from a pet store i had the reptile expert gather everything a would need and went over exactly what to do. I also read everything i could find. Unfortanately it died in only 2 days. I had called worried the night before cause it wasn't active and hadn't eaten. They were still surprised it didn't make it and gave no explanation as to what could have been wrong. I got the other one they had yesterday and am very worried something will happen to it too. So here's what i have calciun sand, 2 hides, collard greens peas bird seed basking area is about 110 basking side also has under tank heater uv side is about 90 and humidity is 20% this one is a little more active I noticed today that it was displaying a behavior the other one did where it opened its mouth and its neck was going in and out almost like panting I haven't been able to find out if that is normal I saw it take a drink but i've only noticed it eat one pea after i took it out of its dish and set it in front of him i also have only seen it on the hot side of tank I am very worried please help me

It seems to me you need to do more research! If the first one died in only two days why in the world would you get another one from these people!?! For starters, get rid of the calcium sand and put your animal on a substrate that is easy for you to monitor and clean on a regular basis. I recommend news paper or paper towels until you can get the animal to a qualified vet for a check up; you will want a fecal done for sure. Your temps are a bit off, you will want a basking spot temp of 115-130 and the cool side in the mid 80s (all temps in Fahrenheit). It will also be of benefit if we knew the dimensions of the tank.
The panting behavior you may be observing is the lizard cooling itself off while thermo regulating. As always, I recommend first and foremost, you get your animals diet and caging correctly set up and get the animal to a qualified herp vet ASAP. There are many diet issues to be addressed but I will spare you my thoughts.
Check out:
www.kingsnake.com/uromastyx/ and www.deerfernfarms.com
for some basic care sheets to get you started. Good luck and I hope this helps.

-Nathanael

I don't believe that you did anything wrong with the first one.
These guys are rather resistant, and won't die within a couple of days just because the cage wasn't proberly adjusted.
I think that your Uro had some disease or a heavy parasite invasion.
Even though these animals come from a hot desert and don't normally drink much, you should always water new specimen.
I'd recommend a basking temp of 140F. That's what I've used for many years.

You said your Uro breaths heavily... Doesn't sound good to me. Might be a respiratory infection.

"So here's what i have calciun sand, 2 hides, collard greens peas bird seed basking area is about 110 basking side also has under tank heater uv side is about 90 and humidity is 20% this one is a little more active I noticed today that it was displaying a behavior the other one did where it opened its mouth and its neck was going in and out almost like panting I haven't been able to find out if that is normal I saw it take a drink but i've only noticed it eat one pea"

1. GET THE CALCIUM SAND OUT OF THERE !!! If your Uro is under 7" long, it should be on Newspaper or papertowels. After that, use washed play sand, pool filter sand or millet seed.

2. The diet you are feeding it is ALL WRONG. Main staple items should be Endive, Escrole and Spring Mix. With Bok Choi, non-pesticide flower petals, peas, cactus and other treats given VERY sparingly.

3. Temps should be as follows: Basking area 120 - 130, Hot side 100, cool end 80-85, nights should be no lower than 75.

4. You enclosure should be no less than 4 FEET x 2 FEET x 2 FEET even for a baby. The bigger the better.

5. Stop giving your Uro Water. Water should only be given if the animal is dehydrated. And then only a very small amount and given in the mornings, and taken out by late morning. If your Uro is getting the right diet, he/she should not need any water !

As for the panting thing ... that could be a sign of Upper Respitory Infection. You need to get it to a VET ASAP.

I also have to ask, if the other one died, why in heck did you get another one from these people???????

PLEASE READ THE CARE SHEETS OFFERED AT www.deerfernfarms.com or here at www.kingsnake.com, it seems you need to do alot more reading and research before you will be able to raise a Uro. They are one of the hardest lizards to keep.

Miss Anne this person is looking for help not a lecture...there are several Uro care sheets that recommend feeding of collards case in point the care sheet offered at Chicago Exotics Emergency Animal Hospital

"A good varied diet should include turnip greens, dandelion greens, romaine and escarole lettuce, organic spring mixes, edible flowers, red clover and other sprouts, mustard greens, endive, and collards."

From the same page "A dry blend of seeds and legumes need to be provided in a shallow dish and refilled as needed. This is an important source for vegetable protein. A good blend consists of red and green lentils, yellow and green split peas, millet, sesame seed, bee pollen granules, small birdseed blend, organic grain cereal and 15 bean soup mix. Important note: The 15 bean soup mix contains beans that are too large for your lizard to eat as is, so I recommend purchasing an inexpensive coffee grinder to grind the soup mix to a coarse mix, which can then be added to the other seeds and legumes. If you are raising hatchlings or have very small animals, you can grind the entire seed blend to a powder-like mix that can be easily ingested by the smaller lizards."

Taken From:Basic caresheet for Uromastyx lizards
By: Audrey Vanderlinden
Edited by: Susan Horton, DVM

the Whole care sheet can be found www.exoticpetvet.com/breeds/iguanageckos1.htm

I found this sheet while I was putting myself through a Uro refresher after I lost Mr. Faust because I haven't had a Juvenile Uro in quite some time, I also feed mine Uro Dust once or twice a week and ground Mazuri Tortoise pellets every other day and dust his food with miner-all. And i do feed a small dish of thawed frozen mixed veg every other day Probably the equivalent of a tablespoon or 2.

I hope this helps the original poster.

And just a quick note on substrate I am a Huge fan of newspaper...
-----
Renee
Mr Aloysius Pendergast Lizardo Uromastyx.Mali 6 months old

Mr Faust Lizardo Uromastyx Hardiwiki May he Rest in Peace

I really cannot understand the use of newspaper on Uromastyx' - or any other desert dwelling reptiles - of any age.
I have never seen nor heard of real intestine impaction case, caused by a normal terrarium playsand. Gravel's another matter.
What happened to providing animals with optimal conditions and leting them express their natural behaviour patterns?

I'd like to thank you all for your responses. I ended up returning it and everything i had bought for it to where i got it. I told them he hadn't eaten and i didn't want anything to happen to him. I went and got a bearded dragon instead since their so much easier to care for. Thanks again!

"I really cannot understand the use of newspaper on Uromastyx' - or any other desert dwelling reptiles - of any age"

It seems there is a lot you don't understand. This is actually a very simple concept so I will explain. Using newspaper or paper towels is feasible when rearing new, sick or young animals due to the fact you (the owner) can easily clean and monitor the animal and its enclosure. This makes since due to the fact that new, sick and even young animals are more susceptible to health ailments, including impaction.
Since in this thread we are dealing with a new/sick animal, it makes even more sense because if it were determined that the animal has heavy loads of internal parasites, the cage will need to be cleaned on a regular basis during treatment. This would be quite difficult if it’s full of sand. Also, it is quite common for new and sick animals, especially if W.C. to be dehydrated which makes impaction more of a possibility.
Sure, this is an unnatural substrate for the animals but you can’t honestly think keeping a uro on washed play sand or millet is equivalent to the natural substrates where they are found.

-Nathanael

Thank you, "yesimhavingfun", for trying, but now I'm totally confused.

"This makes since due to the fact that new, sick and even young animals are more susceptible to health ailments, including impaction."
"[...] if it were determined that the animal has heavy loads of internal parasites, the cage will need to be cleaned on a regular basis during treatment. This would be quite difficult if it’s full of sand."

I've always quarantined new specimens and medicated them for parasites on a sand substrate. Keeping sand clean has never
appeared to be too demanding. Cleaning the cages daily should be self-evident no matter what the substrate is.

"you can’t honestly think keeping a uro on washed play sand or millet is equivalent to the natural substrates where they are found."
Nope. But it (sand) gets close enough (when used properly)), so it doesn't justify the use of a freaking paper. Didn't say a word about millet though.

The SUBSTRATE DEBATE has been the key issue on this forum as long as I can remember & I'm sure it'll stay here for years to come. Let's face it, Uros in the wild don't live on seeds or sand dunes. Nat is correct, though, in that young &/or debilitated animals are best kept on paper. They're by no means harmed in the head by it & you as their keeper can better monitor their health & maintain cage cleanliness. I think the more perplexing issue is that of choosing the best substrate for adults & sub-adults. We've used play sand for years but would love to move on to a better idea that's also practical for our enclosures.

Have to agree. What an aloof & self-opinionated lecture from some one new to the forum.

One of the "hardest lizards to keep"?? Are you kidding? Given their basic requirements, they're damn near bullet proof.