Reptile & Amphibian Forums

So, I have a gravid pastel Col. BCI due in 30 days (Cinco de Mayo). I have fed her three times since ovulation. This has been a small rat every time. I have read not to feed in the last six weeks of gravidity(?), but I'm feeling mixed about this. She has been cruising the cage as if she's starving for a couple of days. She's also looking pretty slender in the front half of her body. If she were not so restless, I wouldn't be as concerned.
So, should I feed her a small meal to tide her over for the last month, or does tough love win out and hope she calms down?
Thanks in advance for the replys!
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

the signs she is showing you means she's getting close to giving birth! she's looking for a place to drop off the kids, which is good.

i don't think it's a great idea to feed her this late in the game. just my opinion, but it is mine, so i like it!
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www.bryansboas.com

I hope not! It's too early. I don't think the results would be too good. She ovulated for the second time on 12/29, and she had her POS around the 20th of January. Isn't it a bit too soon for babies?
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

ive been feeding my flicka every week but a juv rat as appose to her normal large rat, like the above post mentions, save baby room. Flicka is due in June and scanning her shows 6cm folicles but no signs of babies, next scan end of April. She refused two times but thats ok, i can't wait to see if we get anything for this first time breeding.
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1.4 various boas(Flicka,Felony,Nova,Alias,Alibi,confessa,custody,Ms.Demeanor)
0.1 BRB Abalone; ABBI
1.0 Rott X (OSO)
2.0 cats (Simba, Morris)
fish & feeders

I'll bet you she is all over the place because she is unable to find a suitable temperature. She needs to be able to achieve a body temp of 88 or 89 degrees each afternoon. If she cannot, she will look for a warmer place instead of just sitting on the heat and staying as warm as possible. The same goes for too warm a temp. She may be looking to cool off.

What is the females temperature?
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Boaphile Home
All Original/Boaphile Plastics
The Boa Network

Cage temps range from 78-86 with a hot spot up on a shelf of 92. Her temp shoots 86-89 depending on the location. Does this sound right?
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

1. How are you measuring temps?
2. What is 92 degrees exactly? Thermostat? Radiant panel?
3. Where is the probe on the thermostat at?
4. What creates the hot spot? Radiant Heat panel? Flexwatt? Cobra mat? If Flexwatt or a mat of some sort, what are it's dimensions?
5. What is the females temperature?

They do get restless just before birth, but assuming your days are correct, it's just too early to be pacing for a full term or normal birth.

My females will measure 88 or 89 degrees in the afternoon given the proper conditions. Without those conditions, in my instance that always means too cool, the gravid female will cruse everywhere seeking out a warmer place. My hot spots are normally 92-95 degrees to accomplish this.
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Boaphile Home
All Original/Boaphile Plastics
The Boa Network

I have a very un-elaborate setup right now, as this is my first boa experience, and the first time breeding at all. I'm using a 4X2 cage made of 3/4 plywood. All inside surfaces are painted and sealed and flooring is vinyl tiles.
Heating is accomplished with a heat lamp at one end and at an angle toward the other end. I put a shelf in to give more temp ranges and using the lamp, the top of the cage is warmer. I know that the lamp does not give great heat to the floor, but it does supply good ambiant temps. I control the lamp with a dimmer. Not the best solution, I know, but it's what I've got for now. I have a thermometer with the probe on the floor of the warm end, but out of the direct path of the light. I use it mostly to guage changes in temp without having to open the cage. I'm using a temp gun to supply the readings I mentioned before. I've been extremely vigilant in trying to guage her response to changes I've made. If she seemed to not be able to get herself close enough to the light, I turned it up a notch. If she moved to the cool end and hid, I turned it down a notch. It's a full time job being a thermostat!
78-86 is the floor temp on the cool side and the hot. 92 is the surface temp of the wood shelf nearest the heat lamp. 86-89 is her temp depending on where on her body I take the reading and when I take it.
Let me know what you think, other than my setup is insufficient (I know that).
I really appreciate your response!
Chris
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

My racks are heated with 11" flexwatt up the back, and while it keeps good temps, I always provide a heat pad for gravid females. Just a regular ol' human heating pad, set on low. (I get the water resistant ones, about $12) I also throw a sheet over it so there is some buffer between the snake and the pad, they can either crawl under the sheet and get right on it or sit atop the layers of sheets. (or off it completely of course.) That is what I would suggest to you, give her some sort of belly heat and see if she uses it.
Good luck!
-April
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'There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."' -Rainshadow

That's a great idea. Only problem is I can't seem to find a heating pad without a timer function. The one I have and any I can find in the store all shut off after 20 minutes or so. I also haven't been able to figure out how to change the wiring to bypass the control with the timer in it. Any suggestions?
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

The brand I use is the Sunbeam Moist Standard Heating Pad - 12 x 15in and it does not have an automatic shut off. I've gotten them at Target and KMart in the past.
Good luck and I hope it helps!
-April
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'There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."' -Rainshadow

.
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

that would make sense too!
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www.bryansboas.com

So long as they take a meal, I continue to feed my females on a regular basis. However the meals are about 35% of a Normal meal so they don't cause undo pressure on the wee ones.

I think its important to keep up Mom's strength, and mine knows when to stop feeding. She refuses meals about 2 wks out...

What's really important is to minimize handling...

Cheers
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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

0.1 Snow "Khal" RTB
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.0 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
3.1 Red Bearded Dragon's
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
1.0.1 Child

Thanks for the input! I'm convinced that she's hungry. I haven't fed her much since ovulation and even reduced feedings during breeding. If she's growing a bunch of big babies in there, it makes sense that she'd be hungry. One more small rat, and we'll see if she calms down.
Thanks again.
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

However, I do not have a strong opinion against feeding later than that if those meals are very small. Like a medium or smaller rat for a 7' female sized meal.
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Boaphile Home
All Original/Boaphile Plastics
The Boa Network

What is the earliest you've had litters with good outcomes? Am I right in thinking 103 days total gestation is way too early?
Thanks again for your reply!
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

I'm thinking feeding durring gestation gives you larger babies.
That's my guess with my limited experience.
jsc
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"As hard as I've tried, just can't NOT do this"
John Crickmer

I think I really want to feed one more small rat. She seems like she's on a food hunt. It feels like I'm starving her!
I think I'll just make sure the rat is small/med. She's about 7' and was about 13 lbs before breeding began. Thanks for your input!
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Chris
1.1 Columbian BCI
0.1 CA BCI

i actually only fed my female once after ovulation, and her babies were huge!

this is one of them at 1 week old:

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www.bryansboas.com