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building rack need help

DMD87 Apr 24, 2008 04:13 PM

im building two three drawer racks, planning on 3/4 inch ply then painting it black. i want to use 4 sterilite 1960 tubs(34x16x6)and two of my current tubs that are 9"tall but smaller than the 1960's. so i figure the inside needs to betwo levels of 18x35x6then the top level 18x35x9 so i figure they will be 20 inches wide 36inches deep and 24" tall

so i think im gonna need

4 - 18.5x35.25(bottom of middle and top shelf)
4 - 20x36(top and bottom of rack)
4 - 22.5x36(side pieces )(between top and bottom pieces)
2 - 18.5x22.5(back pieces that fit inside top bottom and sides)

I wanted to make sure the measurements are right as home depot said the would cut all the pieces for me

i have no idea how to install flexwatt or how much i will need but would like to use it. i have a herpstat pro thermostat and would like to use 3 of the four probes(i have pairs of three species) any suggestions?
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1.1 jungle carpets
1.1 sumatran bloods
1.1 het albino rtb
0.2 green anoles
0.1 australian shepard mix
0.0.6 tiger barb fish
War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself.
John Stuart Mill
English economist & philosopher (1806 - 1873)

Replies (4)

Chris_Harper2 Apr 25, 2008 01:11 PM

First thing first, I have had inconsistent luck using Home Depot or Lowes to cut sheet goods accurately on their panel saws. I believe they have a policy about not allowing stop blocks clamped to the saw which is the best way to insure accuracy. Even then you assume a consistent straight/square edge to work off of so a stop block does not always work.

Racks recquire tight tolerances so I'd at least look into having a local cabinet shop cut your material for you. In the past I have found that they are thankful to have simple cuts that keep their entry level employees busy.

If you do have Home Depot cut it for you, at least shoot for the largest sized panels you can get out of the number of sheets you need. By having them oversized you have the option of getting them square and consistenly sized later.

Also, regarding the use of plywood, understand that plywood has gone down in quality in recent years and is often full of voids and of inconsistent thickness. Both can cause problems with racks.

Baltic Birch plywood (the real stuff from Finland and Russia that comes in 5x5 sheets) is much better and the odd size often makes it better for larger racks with deeper shelves like yours.

Unfortunately a warm winter last year means they were not able to cross some of the rivers to get to the timber so the prices have gone up on real baltic birch.

At any rate, consider melamine. It is flat and the thickness is consistent. It is also super cheap, especially when considering there is limited finishing involved, if any. And some of the 6' long melamine shelves actually end up being cheaper than full sheets once you factor in waste. You'll have to figure that out yourself.

Okay, onto the measurements...

Each rack will hold three tubs, meaning four shelves at 0.75" each, or 3.0" in height due to shelves. Two boxes at 6" tall and one at 9" tall means a height of at least 24".

I would recommend keeping all of the shelves the same width so you can space out each level. At the very least only have the top or bottom resting on the sides rather than between the sides. To have both the top and bottom resting on the sides means you'll have to cut your sides perfectly. If I were to do that the only way I would try it is to have the sides cut longer than needed to each space could be made oversized and shimmed to fit the tubs.

Or have the tubs run on rails so the spacing does not matter.

So I would do it this way:

Four "sides" at 25" x 36"

Eight shelves at 18" x 36"

I would not include a full back for racks this small. Instead I would just use some scrap to cut a partial back piece and fill in the rest with Reflectix insulation. You just need enough material to stop the boxes from sliding and to help hold the carcass square.

I think your design is a bit complex and asking for trouble due to the lack of accuracy achievied with a panel saw. I would simplify it as much as possible, if possible.

The only reason I'd modify the suggestions above is if it just did not work with the stock sheet or shelf sizes you found locally. I do not like storing scrap lumber so I'm willing to modify designs in order to avoid buying an extra full sheet for one shelf, for example.

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Currently keeping a small collection of various Gonyosoma. Both G. janseni and G. oxycephala.

DMD87 Apr 25, 2008 10:04 PM

thanks for the help i have one more ? how would you suggest fastening melamine? i have no clue..
-----
1.1 jungle carpets
1.1 sumatran bloods
1.1 het albino rtb
0.2 green anoles
0.1 australian shepard mix
0.0.6 tiger barb fish
War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself.
John Stuart Mill
English economist & philosopher (1806 - 1873)

Bighurt Apr 25, 2008 10:36 PM

I have alwasy had success with Dado's and Glue.

However for those that don't have the tools or patience, confirmat screws work great.

Cheers
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Jeremy

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

0.1 Snow "Khal" RTB
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow RTB's
1.0 Hypomelenistic RTB's
0.2 Pastel Hypo RTB's
0.1 Suriname RTB
0.1 Anerthrystic RTB
3.1 Red Bearded Dragon's
1.0 Ball Python
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
1.0.1 Child

Chris_Harper2 Apr 25, 2008 11:19 PM

If you are glueing edge to surface then you'll need to use Roo Glue or another melamine glue. Then also use screws. Confirmat screws or their various clones are the best but various wood screws will also work.

I made melamine racks with drywall screws about 15 years ago and they are still holding snakes.

If you do cut dados then regular glue is fine. I'm not a huge fan of dados for racks due to the tight tolerances but it can be done and it does add strength if done properly. The big issue with dados in any sort of particle board product is making them too deep and having them weaken the panel.

A lot of cabinet builders who use dados in melamine now only mill then slightly deeper than the thickness of the melamine layer. The dados are not there to add strength but to aid in alignment during glueup and to allow the glue bond to be between particle board and more particle board rather than melamine to particle board.

One other thought. If you really want a paint grade rack then you could use MDF. I strongly dislike working with the stuff but it is flat and consistent, albeit quite heavy. And it does paint up very well.

You can join it with the same choices for melamine but the melamine glue is not required.
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Currently keeping a small collection of various Gonyosoma. Both G. janseni and G. oxycephala.

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