Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hows your humidity? The eggs don't look like they are rotting or molding - perhaps some more humidity and they'll perk?
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Tosha
JET Pythons

the problem when keeping eggs in direct contact with perelite/hatchrite is that if it becomes to dry it will actually draw moisture out of the eggs. If you get the moisture right those eggs should plump up some or you may also have some eggs that are starting to dimple in because they are close to hatching time. I normally start to see some dimpling starting about 2 weeks before hatching. Candle the eggs, if you see veins or movement you are good to go. Don't give up on them yet.
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Josh & Krysty Hutto
J&K Reptiles

Various Ball Pythons, boas, dogs, cats, fish, an amel tiger retic female, a couple sulcatas and a few other odds and ends.

a BAD dog is MADE not bred, support the American Pit Bull Terrier as the greatest breed of dogs on Earth!!!!!

Josh is right those eggs look good,candle them in the dark with a small beam flashlight,I have 4 that look worse than that and they are fine.also get your moisture better on the next ones.

Here is a picture to ease you mind.These 4 eggs are at day 47, the pins in my other post were also in the same box as you can see the depressions.Alot of my eggs do this some do not.It is probably lack of moisture but the eggs tend to cave in before hatching.By the way those 4 eggs are from a bee X pastel.Good luck and let us know how you come out.Terry

I've noticed ALOT of people trying just perlite,with no light diffuser(plastic grid),and they are getting the same bad results.
Perlite is a poor substrate to use,but it works great for substrateless incubation.In other words;If you don't have the plastic grid,then use a proper substrate(,such as vermiculite.)because the moment eggs are placed IN the perlite the whole "no-substrate" method has been changed.

Having said that...Find the light diffuser at your local home depot type store..cut it to fit(loosely so it can free float)..and then fill the box with the water level being just under the perlite.
With that done the no-sub method will then take over and humidity will be applied to the egg through the air in the egg box(and NOT from direct contact from substrate).Which could very well save dehydrated eggs.

good luck
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Charles Glaspie

There is nothing wrong with perlite for a substrate without the grate , you just need to give it the right amount of water . I use hatch right (my third year ) without a single lost egg . And I used perlite before that with out any trouble . So I wouldn’t say it is a incorrect method . David

"I would rather be precisely wrong than approximately right"
Marion "Doc" Ford

I tried candling them. Difficult since they are still stuck together but the one in the front on the right actually has veins! I also added water to the medium again.

It,s a little late for the water but it probably wont hurt anything.I cut my eggs at 50 days(94 last year)and I know this is very controversial but it will let you know in 5 days.I say all of those eggs are good.Terry

Not controversial IMO.
I am tempted to cut them now to see what is going on inside.
At day 50, I guarentee these will be cut to see what is going on.

Don,t cut now, just wait 5 more days.I feel very confident they are good.Terry

I had this suggestion given to me; get the "shoebox" size plastic container, drill a few (10-12) 1/4" holes in the top, and incubate with the lid on. The idea is it helps hold moisture in the egg area not just the incubator. Check every couple days, if there's condensation on the bottom of the lid, you're good. If it's dry, add water. If you have a handful of run-off water on the floor from removing the lid, you're too wet. Just a suggestion. It works for me and I put the eggs directly in the substrate. I do belive I have vermiculite though, not perlite.

Good Luck

If you are concerned spray the eggs down with a sprayer or add a little water to the substrate.

If you add too much water to the substrate at once you'll actually drown the eggs. At this late in the incubation I would just spray the eggs lightly and spray the sides of the tub heavily to increase humidity.

When you open up the eggs at day 50 (I cut mine at day 52) and the baby looks a little dry you can take water that is 90F and pour it into the egg to rehydrate the baby. Fill the egg right up if you are worried, once you cut you won't drown the baby.

Corey

I was just reading up on dry eggs in the Barkers book. They said they experimented by incubating one set of eggs very dry and another set of eggs very humid. They said the dry eggs looked so bad about halfway through that they moved half of the dry eggs into the humid container and half of the humid eggs into the dry container. In the end, all of the eggs hatched except the ones they swapped.

It was their opinion that consistency was the key. If the eggs have been very dry the whole time, it could hurt the eggs to suddenly create a very humid environment. Just a thought!
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Ryan Sherman
Scottsdale, Arizona
www.ThePaintedPython.com

Just think about this....your giving them a better chance right now then if they were laid by the mother in Africa, lol. I understand increasing those odds by doing a few things but those eggs are really strong and so are the pythons. Of course I saw this when I don't have anything in my incubator....it's gonna change soon.