Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I think I might need a REFRESHER ON BURMS .
I've bred Balls for the last 5 years ..recently obtained a beautiful female burm as pet . She has eaten 3 times for me but was a complete chore every time..she likes to strike repeatedly but not hold...once ..she held on to a hopper for 1 1/2 hours without swallowing and then dropped it . when you approach the rack she's all about strking and keeping her mouth open . Do I have her too hot , not the right food . She's in a Ball Python hatchling rack right now , and the bin is on a cool spot on the rack . about 89 degrees on the tape . I was told from where i got her that she ate hoppers , but she just strikes them and doesn't grab . it is becoming fustrating , anyone that has produced snakes knows that it's a pain to get a stubborn hatchling to feed , any Suggestions welcome..I want her to start growing ,lol. Thanks in advance

Rich

Rich,
I suggest lowering the temperature to around 82 - 84 degrees, wait a day or two and then leave a fresh-killed hopper mouse, or, live pinkie or fuzzy rat, in it's container, without getting it defensive by sticking the rodent in it's face. The current temp could be making it aggressive and you could be making it defensive and/or intimidating it by dangling the rodent in it's face.

The calmer the snake is the better the odds of it eating.

If lowering the temp doesn't improve it's attitude you're gonna have to bite the bullet & start handlin' it to get it to calm down. The sooner the better. The lower temp may do it, though.

Keep us posted, please.

Have a good one!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

I think I ned to clarify my first reply.

It's recommended by some to keep Burmese Python hatchlings near the 90 degree mark. This is bascially in referrence to keeping them in bins, small tubs, etc. The higher temps increase metabolism and hopefully encourages a good feeding response as well as promoting the growth of internal organisms needed for digestion.

I feel that personal keepers should move hatchlings into more of a proper setup, with a temperature gradient, once it has consumed a few meals and is on it's way to a healthy life. But it's important to remember that they'll feel more secure in a smaller enclosure than they will a large, spacious, one. This, I believe, is best achieved by using belly heat (the size of the snake in question's coiled body or so) with small containers, enclosures.

The reason I suggested that Rich lower the temps was just to establish whether or not the heat was causing the aggression and over-excitement. I didn't intend to insinuate for him or anyone else to keep hatchling burms at that low of a temperature all the time. they need access to higher temps for ease of digestion. When given proper choices reptiles will make proper decisions.

It's also likely that Rich's hatchling just flat out gets too excited come feeding time and will settle down after awhile. Feeding F/T can help in situations like that, where the rodent doesn't move and the snake doesn't hold onto the rodent for 40 forevers because it's still moving. Bump the conatiner while feeding & watch the lil' boogers squeeze even tighter and longer. They're inexperienced.

Later!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Hey Rich!
Just checkin' up on your snake to see how things are going. Is it eating now?

Did you get my reply to your PM?

Take care!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com