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Feeding

Allokai May 04, 2008 12:06 AM

Hello.
I got my first bearded dragon a few days ago. It is about four months old. I have proper heating and lighting set up. However, the dragon is shy and frightened. It likes to use the hides, it sometimes tries to climb the side of the tank when I move in the room, and it won't eat crickets I put into the cage for it. I know leaving these cricekts in its cage is a bad thing, as they can nibble on it, but it just isn't eating in my sight, even when I push the crickets toward it. I think it's only eaten about two crickets in the few days I've owned it. I really don't want my lizard to die...): Should I try putting it in a separate container to feed it? That might stress it more. I don't know what to do...

As a side note, can you play music once your beardie gets used to you? I enjoy playing music in my room, but that seems to freak it out a little...

Replies (6)

PHLdyPayne May 04, 2008 05:11 AM

Dragons do require some time to adjust to their new home.. if your dragon is really shy and hiding, try covering up most of the sides of your cage, except the front (cover sides and back).

Putting the crickets into a ceramic or glass bowl (solid sides) near the basking area so your dragon can see them when basking. just make sure something is close to the cage so your dragon can easily get into the bowl to get the crickets. This helps prevent crickets running lose in the cage.

Small silkworms, phoenix worms, butterworms and small horn worms could be used in addition to crickets.

Also make sure your temps are correct, if too hot that could be why the dragon is staying in its hides.

As for music..really depends on how loud you are playing your music. If its blaring...probably best to either use a headset or play your music much quieter. As you indicate it freaks your dragon out, its is stressing it even more. Best to lay off the music completely till your dragon is eating normally and more used to his new home. Then try playing music on low..then slowly turn it up till he gets used to it. If the high bass etc still freak it out..then you may just have to get used to not listening to music as much, use a headset (or headphones...) Or move the dragon out of your bedroom.
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PHLdyPayne

Allokai May 04, 2008 12:45 PM

Thank you. ^^ He's not quite as shy as before...and I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few more questions. First of all, what is their fecal matter supposed to look like? My beardie has done a few dumps so far, even though it hasn't eaten much.
Also, what of handling? I've petted it a bit, but I don't want to pick it up right now, for fear of stressing it.
And about the dishes...I should clean its water and food bowl every day, right? With soap and water? Seems like soap could leave a sheen or an odor that would be destructive...o.o...
And the cage...I have sand in its cage. It's layered a few inches deep. I've a feeling it ought to be deeper, but that might negate the benefits of the heating pad at the bottom of one side of the cage.
And also, when do I completely clean its cage, and how?
Again, thanks for being helpful. ^^

PHLdyPayne May 06, 2008 02:11 PM

dragon poop should consist of a formed elongated mass..with a smaller opaque chalk like section which typically is white or off white, clear mucus or fluid typically is also present. It will be easy to tell a cigar or cylinder shape in the poop...which typically is brown..usually dark brown...though color can vary depending on what is being fed.

For a 4 month old dragon, especially if he is less than 14" long (snout to tail tip) I recommend getting rid of all the sand. Use paper towel, newsprint, non stick shelf liner and other non particulate substrates instead. For dragons 14" or longer regular washed and sifted children's play sand can be used...I personally think the non particulate substrates are best.

For paper towels, newsprint type substrates, spot clean by removing the soiled substrate, washing underneath if it appears to have soaked through with a mild anti-bacterial cleaner (with no bleach, or ammonia...anti-bacterial soap and a damp cloth works fine). Do this as soon as you see soiled substrate. With young dragons it may be a few times a day. Spot clean non stick shelf liner etc. Total cage wash should occur once a month.

Sand..scoop out the solid waste daily. Look closely for poop as dragons can easily bury it and it will go unnoticed. Change out the sand completely every month.

I recommend not handling your dragon the first week or two at all. Wait till he is eating regularly and comfortable with you outside the cage and him inside. You can talk to it or simply watch him when he is basking etc. Avoid sudden movements which could startle your dragon and make him hide.

Food and water dishes should be washed daily. Always wash dishes and items used in a reptile's cage separate from your own 'people' dishes. A separate sink should be used...or at the very least, wash pet dishes and items after the household dishes are washed and the sink disinfected with bleach. Separate sink is best.

There are many products that can be used but for water dishes and food dishes I just use standard anti-bacterial soap, the liquid or gel kind, smear all over the bowl, sit for about ten minutes and rinse completely.

For disinfecting cage furniture, especially wood or large pieces, a bleach solution or a product like Novesan(I think its called) mixed according to directions (comes in a concentrate...I never use it myself mostly because can't seem to find it around here. But typically one part novesan to 50 parts water...which is strong enough to disinfect cages etc.) For bleach, one part bleach to 100 parts water, though when cleaning after treating a sick dragon, or for parasites...I use a 1:10 bleach/water ratio. Soak for 20 minutes, rinse very well, especially with the stronger solution. Air dry in a ventilated area...outside is best.

Typically though, washing with an antibiotic cleaner with a cloth the entire interior of a cage once every couple months is sufficient to ensure your pet remains healthy. Twice yearly a full disinfect should be done.. the monthly ones can be more washing the bottom of the cage with a diluted cleaner/disinfectant.
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PHLdyPayne

dragonfamiliar May 04, 2008 01:41 PM

when we first got a beardie, though mildly shy, her favorite place to be was in my wife's lap with somewhere to snuggle her head. especially in the evenings when she was tired she would sit in either of our laps and sleep with any fold of cloth covering her. so maybe try that. if your beardie won't stay still on you during the day, wait till late evening an let it sleep on you for a while. then you become a source of comfort for it. a year an a half later our big girl is still amazingly happy cuddling. she'll sit in our lap and look around and if it's late she'll wedge herself down an snuggle between our legs and pass out. our other beardie on the other hand won't stay still when out of the cage. she loves to run everywhere but neither seemed shy even when we first got them. the little one still sleeps under her fake log and spends the day switching between under and over the log. she'll come out an play too but we can't take her out and leave her and expect her to be cuddled up where we left her like we can with the big one.

tbone21 May 04, 2008 10:20 AM

Give your dragon some time to adjust. The bowl idea is ok to get him started eating the crickets but eventually you want him to chase them gives him exercise. Also you can leave the crickets in there for a little while and leave he might not eat in your presence.
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Tom
1.2.0 Leopard Gecko (dot, spot, leo)
0.0.1 California King Snake (booboo)
0.1.0 Sulcata Tortoise (tank)
0.0.2 Russian Tortoise (tito and lulu)
0.0.2 Red Ear Sliders (bernie and ernie)
0.0.3 Painted Turtles (larry, curly and moe)
1.0.0 Bearded Dragon (marshmellow)
0.0.1 Savannah Monitor (beef)
1.0.0 Peachfront Conure (kermit)
0.1.0 Australian Shepheard (layla)
2.1.0 Crazy Cats (babe, sabastian, tinkerbell)
0.1.0 Lion Head Rabbit (daisy)
0.1.0 Ferret (jordan)
0.2.0 Guinea Pigs (lilly and petunia)
0.0.1 White Tree Frog (dumpy jr.)
0.0.2 Fire Belly Newts (spork and blaze)
0.0.1 Fire Belly Toad (ferdinan)
0.0.1 Red Spotted Newt ( red)
0.0.2 Bull Frogs (goliath and tubby)
0.0.1 Rainbow Ameive (jack)
0.0.1 Spectacled caiman (wilbert)
0.0.3 Green Anoles
1.0.0 Bahama Anole
0.0.1 Long Tail Grass Lizard
Lots Of Fish

beachbeardies May 05, 2008 08:59 PM

if i read your post correctly you said something about using a few inches of sand but not wanting to put too much in there because of a HEAT PAD?!?!?! if that is what you are using, STOP!!! get rid of it, useless for a BD. get a spot light fixture dome and a household soft white bulb for heat. monitor the temps so you can adjust the wattage to what you need. i use 60 watt on most of mine but yours may be different. also a UVB light running the entire length of the cage, reptisun 10.0 being the best to use as far as bulbs
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Beach Beardies

2.2. bearded dragons
1.1. Sugar Gliders
0.2. Felines *queen athena and missy*

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