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Fresh WC animals, questions and PICS!

ileventhal May 08, 2008 02:26 AM

Hi,

I recently got these guys as I've been searching for C. bicinctores for a LONG time.

They are WC as it's hard to find CB in this species. My question is should I treat them with panacur or should I see how they do. They are very freshly caught, they got into the store last night and I picked them up today.

I was also wondering if there's anything I can do to ease the transition into captivity. I tried to feed them tonight but no luck.

Here are the photos; (I woke them up from sleep and they have sand on them from misting the enclosure, especially on the males nose)

Replies (13)

Rosebuds May 08, 2008 07:24 AM

Does the thin one in the first pic have a nasty sore on its side? The others look good, but I'm really new to collareds.

What kind of sand are they on?

PHEve May 08, 2008 09:56 AM

Hi, before I would think about panacur for internal parasites I would get these guys washed and treated for mites. They can be a major problem in wild caughts. I do no tknow if my eyes are deceiving me but the second pic ( the male) looks like he may have a bloody place between the nostril and eye (right) and maybe a sore place near mouth ???? Just checking

Always a good idea no matter what to treat them as if they DO have parasites and keep them away from all other critters for awhile. You can pour some mineral oil/ baby oil or even olive oil on the tummy( it's white) and if any mites are present you will see them appear as tiny black/ red or tan spots. Use a magnifying glass to do this. Watch carefully !

I wish you all the best with your new kids! If there is any problem give us a holler always someone here to try and help.
Suncharmers / also collared care

-----
PHEve / Eve

ileventhal May 08, 2008 12:46 PM

Thank you for the comments and input PHeve

I answered about the nose spot in the post below. The mouth was just an aggregation of sand from spraying his mouth is A-Okay. I'm so glad to be working with these guys after a 6 yr absence.

John-C May 08, 2008 10:44 AM

I agree,
I believe the three are males. The first I'm not positive
on but the fact that it appears less colorful and a bit
thin is likely due to stress. I also see what appears to
be fresh battle wounds on a couple. Males tend to be
aggressive toward one and other especially when kept
together and in close quarters e(specially at this time
((breeding season)). If you have the spare tanks it might
be a good idea to separate them. Acclimation will be
quicker plus it will give their wounds a chance to heal.

These are very nice looking bicinctores.
Good luck with them.

John

ileventhal May 08, 2008 12:45 PM

Hi you guys.

Thanks for the input.

I only have a pair, and it is a definite male/female pair. Out of the 6, there was only one female in that group.

The store had all 6 C. bincintores in one 10 gallon aquarium. Yes on the males nose it did have a wound, the "blood" that was on it was dried and from misting the enclosure it made it look fresh. They are a protected species in here in Oregon and I had to drive 2 hours each way into Vancouver, WA to get them. I thought since they got them in Tues, if I went up Wednesday they would have been ok, but I was a little late

The wound is healed. I noticed it when I got him but his colors were pretty intense considering the species so I chose him.

I did take them into lab this morning and got a good look under them and all over in fact, no mites at all, which is great.

I'm going to try feeding again today, hopefully some positive results.

John-C May 08, 2008 03:45 PM

You know I didn't scroll down on the third pic far enough so
I didn't see the female down below. In this shot she really
looks female. As I see the second and third photo I now
realize that it's the same male ... thanks for straightening me
out on that.

There's a lot of blue tint in your pictures so it's difficult to
tell if that's actually wet sand stuck to them or if it's dry
blood or scabs.

I would go easy on the misting. These are primarily desert
creatures. It might be better just to leave a shallow bowl of
water in for them.

John

ileventhal May 08, 2008 04:16 PM

Hey John,

Thanks for the reply. I feel like I'm re learning everything with these guys since I haven't had them in so long. I've been pretty much only working with Nephrurus geckos for a long time and these are definitely a change of pace.

I only sprayed them down last night after they went to sleep and then I thought, "Oh I haven't taken pics yet" Anyway I didn't know if they'd had water since being flown in the other day. Both were lapping it up.

The male ate immediately today, the female seems a bit lethargic. (She was really active yesterday at the store and when I got her home) I am going to monitor her but I think she's just getting accustomed to the new enclosure.

The pictures were taken with the fluorescent UVB bulb on and I think that's why there is a tint to them. I assure you the only blood/scab spot was on the male's head. I'd never looked at live reptiles under a microscope before this morning. It was really interesting. There were no other scabs or external parasites on either lizard though.

One question, if I decide to de worm them, should I wait a week or so to see how well the acclimate, or should I knock it out now?

Thanks again for your help and input

PHEve May 08, 2008 04:43 PM

Yeah if it were me I would wait on the panacur, atleast a week or so until you see how they do otherwise. They are already a bit stressed with being caught/ taken from their own element and put into a small (to them) fish tank.

I use panacur and think it is a good means of de-worming if needed. But it can be harsh on their tummys too. So I think I would wait and see if your female perks up on her own and check out their feces and see how that looks/smells before I did anything. Thats my thoughts I'm sure others will chime in if they have more to ad.

I also agree with John C put in a shallow water bowl for them. One so shallow they can walk through for now,(like a yogart plastic lid) or plastic lid of a coffee can, that way it will feel more natural. Then when you see that they are drinking you can give them one not as shallow. Alot of Misting can cause respiratory / bacterial infections. These guys come from the deserty regions.
-----
PHEve / Eve

ileventhal May 08, 2008 05:05 PM

She's doing fine now thankfully. I raised the temps a little on the "cool" side and both were more active. They are currently both chasing crickets as I write this.

I'm deciding on how to place a shallow dish in there without them filling it with sand when they run around.

They're so active, its great to see.

Would having a staple diet of superworms/mealworms be sufficient with cricket/waxworms supplementing it?

John-C May 08, 2008 05:01 PM

"Dido" on waiting. Especially with the female or it may do
her more harm than good. A few parasites aren't going to
do that much more damage in the next month or so. Besides,
they may just have mostly beneficial parasites and little of
the harmful ones. In nature they sort of balance that out
themselves. Do as Eve suggested and check on their stool
If you want take a sample from each to your lab and check
it under the scope. Just do a light smear and you may be
able to see if there's an over abundance or just a few.
Just a few is usually the norm and not a problem.

John

ileventhal May 08, 2008 05:08 PM

Hi John,

They both deficated earlier this afternoon and it it's solid with no smell. Dry as well. On the next one I'm hoping to catch it a little earlier to do a smear.

I'll wait on the panacur. They are both active and appear to be acting normally now.

Thanks again

ileventhal May 08, 2008 05:33 PM

Is the only difference between the 10.0 and 5.0 bulbs is the distance of UVB penetration?

Rosebuds May 09, 2008 04:19 PM

No, the difference between the two is the percentage of UVB that that bulb supposedly puts out. For a desert or semi dasert reptile, the higher the number the better. 5 Percent is pretty low for a desert or semidesert critter. However, the Reptiglo 10s are off, and I can't remember if they aren't really producing enough or are producing too much. You will do best to stick with the Reptisun 10 or a MVB.

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