Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I'm drawing up plans for my first snake rack so I can make room for more snakes! I have a couple of questions that I haven't worked out yet and so figured I put them to members here to see what you thought. This rack is being built to house my corn snake, ball python, and two black racers with a few tubs left for further acquisitions.

1.) I'm planning on using melamine to construct the shelves and either 1x4 boards or strips of melamine on the sides so that the tubs aren't completely inclosed. Which would be better?

2.) The tubs I am using I will be ordering from www.reptiletubs.com and are the CF570 rubs which measure 17 3/4"W x 28 3/4"L x 9 1/2"H. I was having an issue trying to decide which way to orient the tubs. With the 17 3/4" facing out or so that the 28 3/4" side facing out?

3.) One of the biggest conflict I am having is how/where to attack the Flexwatt? If I just attach it to the shelf where the tub will sit on top is that going to cause problems? I read somewhere that sliding the tubs over the heat tape repeatedly will wear the tape out faster. What if I covered it with something, I've heard of it being covered with contact paper...is that safe?
My other thought was to mount it to the side of the rack so that the tub will not actually touch it (the tubs are 9 1/2" tall and I was planning on using 4" heat tape) due to the gap created by the lip. How effective is this type of placement and will the 4" be big enough to properly heat the tubs?
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1.0 Snow Corn Snake (Suzie - it's a funny story)
1.1 Black Racer (Diablo and Noir)
0.1 Ball Python (Samantha)

1.) I'm planning on using melamine to construct the shelves and either 1x4 boards or strips of melamine on the sides so that the tubs aren't completely inclosed. Which would be better?

Of the two, melamine strips are the much better option, although melamine is not the strongest stuff when ripped narrow. The 1x4 solid wood will expand and contract too much. Don't get me wrong, it can and has been used, I just don't think it's worth the trouble.

I'll add a third option, and thats strips of plywood. Much better choice.

2.) The tubs I am using I will be ordering from www.reptiletubs.com and are the CF750 rubs which measure 17 3/4"W x 28 3/4"L x 9 1/2"H. I was having an issue trying to decide which way to orient the tubs. With the 17 3/4" facing out or so that the 28 3/4" side facing out?

The long/tall tubs are natural more flexible along their long edge. If you make the tub so they slide out width-wise that middle part of the tub might be a security issue for colubrids. It also makes it hard to open the tubs just a bit for reglar maintenance. I make racks so sweater boxes slide in width wise but for longer/taller boxes I like to have them slide in length-wise. Again, either way can and has worked, but I give a slight nod to length-wise (by lengthwise, I mean the 17 & 3/4" end facing out).

3.) One of the biggest conflict I am having is how/where to attack the Flexwatt? If I just attach it to the shelf where the tub will sit on top is that going to cause problems? I read somewhere that sliding the tubs over the heat tape repeatedly will wear the tape out faster. What if I covered it with something, I've heard of it being covered with contact paper...is that safe?

My other thought was to mount it to the side of the rack so that the tub will not actually touch it (the tubs are 9 1/2" tall and I was planning on using 4" heat tape) due to the gap created by the lip. How effective is this type of placement and will the 4" be big enough to properly heat the tubs?

I really don't like to give out advice on how to use flexwatt. With attention to detail it can be used a variety of ways. Since your rack won't have solid sides or a back, I'd give a slight nod to having the heat source underneath the boxes. There are a handful of ways to protect the tape from repeated sliding of the tubs.

Another choice with tall tubs like you're using is to use the Desert Rays Radiant Heat Panels on the bottom of each shelf so the heat radiates downward into the tub. I have not tried this myself but have heard of some who have and have some ideas on how to make it work well.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

I've not heard of the Radiant Heat Panels you're talking about so I Googled them. To me they just look like flexwatt tape to a certain degree (or at least the ones you suggested). Could it be possible to put the flexwatt on the bottom of the shelves so that it heated the same??
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1.0 Snow Corn Snake (Suzie - it's a funny story)
1.1 Black Racer (Diablo and Noir)
0.1 Ball Python (Samantha)

Last time I checked the Desert Rays and other radiant heat panels had more wattage per sq. foot than heat tape. Maybe check that out before you try it.

I have kept several racers in my time and suspect they have a strong preference for overhead radiant heat. This and since you are using a tall box is why I suggested this approach.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

With an open frame rack like you suggest, you do not have much choice with Flexwatt - sounds like belly heat to me. You can cover the 4" heat tape with lots of aluminum tape to protect it. Do that and you will not need to worry. (unless you use sand as a substrate, but common sense tells me you won't.)

Seems to me ball pythons require more heat-mass than a cornsnake. Do you really think one type of cage fits all snakes? I guess it can offering average conditions.

Corn snakes can get quite large. It seems to me a plastic cage might do them more justice, or else a larger box size. I know most people use the 17x28 box, but most people have eaten at Olive Garden, and that doesn't make it good. Reptile Tubs sells those nice Iris boxes that are larger. That would be great for the ball python and cornsnake. Just a consideration.
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Mark

Thanks for the input. And you're correct, I won't be (nor have I or do I ever plan on) using sand as a substrate. Currently I use newspaper, though I have used Aspen in the past with no problems. I simply use newspaper now cause for one it's delivered to my door free every Sunday. It's also easier/quicker to clean which is a real plus they way the racers process meals.

As far as the size of the tubs go I'm open to using bigger tubs, but I also really like them to be slightly taller than the 6 inches or so that most bigger tubs are. The tubs that I am leaning towards using (CB70) measure 17 3/4" W 33 1/2" L 9 1/2" H. I was looking at another tub (CB110) that measures 19 7/8" W 39" L 6 1/4" H. And I still may end up going with that one as I could then built a rack with a few more tubs and it'd still take up about the same amount of space in the room. As far as the Iris tubs go, I've heard several people say Reptile Tubs carries them, but I have not been able to find them on their site. Am I just missing them??

The heating issue came to my mind as well and I feel I've addressed it adequately by planning on rigging the heat tape in two levels with separate thermostats/dimmers (haven't decided which yet). This way I can keep everyone happy.

By the way, I rather like Olive Garden

Thanks,
Dan
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1.0 Snow Corn Snake (Suzie - it's a funny story)
1.1 Black Racer (Diablo and Noir)
0.1 Ball Python (Samantha)

The CB-70 box is great. That is the better size for sure. Gives ball pythons and corns much more room. In my previous post I meant to say that the 17x21 boxes are too small, not 17x28.

You can get them online from The Container Store or from Vision Herp. In fact, Vision sells their own version of that box that is thicker plastic and no ridges. I think it is called the V-70 or something to that effect.

Yes, run multiple strips of the Flexwatt for the ball python. You are on the money.

Olive Garden isn't so bad I guess.
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Mark