Reptile & Amphibian Forums

i have a young egyptian that hasnt come out of his hide for over 2 months except to eat. temps are 115 basking 94 ambient and 80 cool side. night time temps are in the mid to upper 70's. with florida temps reaching 100 every day its not hard to keep warm. what can i do. he sees alot of action by me walking by to tend to my other herps but i dont think that is why he hides. and help would be great.
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Jeff Kearney
Orlando, FL

1.0.0 Egyptian Uromastyx (Dino)
2.7.0 Bearded Dragons (Too many to name)
1.0.0 Mali Uromastyx (Rex)
2.2.0 Ball Python (Ali, Gator, Para, Medic)
0.1.1 Leopard Gecko (Layla, Nubbs, Iggy)
0.2.0 Fat-Tailed Gecko (Penelope, Brownie)
0.0.1 Corn Snake (Not sure yet)
0.0.2 Blue Phase Dumpys Tree Frog (Sticky, Squishy)

Well, your basking temps are a bit low. They should be between 120-130.

What kind of basking light and UVB bulb are you using? I strongly suggest a Mercury Vapor bulb for both. The Mercury Vapor would provide heat and the best UVB on the market. I know that people say that uros don't need uvb, but they do clearly like it.

Just as an example, I recently broke one of my MVBs and another burned out, so I put a similarly rated incandescent bulb over both vivs, and the usual temps were maintained. My uro and desert iguanas, all of whom are usually out for most of the day, refused to come out of their caves until the new Megarays came in. Here are the Mercury Vapor bubs that I recommend:
Megaray www.reptileuv.com
T Rex Active UV (reptile supply outlets)
Solar Glo Mercury Vapor (reptile supply outlets)

There are also certain uvb bulbs on the market now that hurt their eyes.

The problem may be more about the temp in and above the hiding place than anything else. How is your hide constructed, and where are your basking spots? Our uro didn't come out very much until we moved his hide under one of the basking spots (we have two basking areas). The tricky thing was, without the spot being above the hide, he was too cold and lazy to leave, BUT when we put the spot directly on the rock that covers his hide, he was too warm and cozy to leave. So, we had to stack some rocks under the spot light, so that the under space of the hide still got warm during the day, but not warm enough to make him happy enough to never leave. Take the temperature of the space under the hide during the day, and see if it is either too hot or too cold. I can't tell you the idea hide temp, but I'll bet that changing the temp will change his behavior. Good luck!

i moved the basking light above the hide and within and hour he was out and eating. aslo is there anyway to tame him a little. just enough to stop the tail whiping the and body dancing.
12 inch egyptian
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Jeff Kearney
Orlando, FL

1.0.0 Egyptian Uromastyx (Dino)
2.7.0 Bearded Dragons (Too many to name)
1.0.0 Mali Uromastyx (Rex)
2.2.0 Ball Python (Ali, Gator, Para, Medic)
0.1.1 Leopard Gecko (Layla, Nubbs, Iggy)
0.2.0 Fat-Tailed Gecko (Penelope, Brownie)
0.0.1 Corn Snake (Not sure yet)
0.0.2 Blue Phase Dumpys Tree Frog (Sticky, Squishy)

My mali was quite fiesty when I got him, refusing to be held, and rarely even coming out of his hides if someone was in the same room. Time and very gradual introduction helped tame my guy down. Each day I would stick my hand into his enclosure a little closer to him without trying to hold him. Eventually I was able to pet him without him running away, and even hold him without being tailwhipped. It just took a lot of patience. Once you get your uro to not run when you reach in, offering a tastey treat helps earn trust.
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Ethans Den

i would like to tame him before he reaches his full grown length.
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Jeff Kearney
Orlando, FL

1.0.0 Egyptian Uromastyx (Dino)
2.7.0 Bearded Dragons (Too many to name)
1.0.0 Mali Uromastyx (Rex)
2.2.0 Ball Python (Ali, Gator, Para, Medic)
0.1.1 Leopard Gecko (Layla, Nubbs, Iggy)
0.2.0 Fat-Tailed Gecko (Penelope, Brownie)
0.0.1 Corn Snake (Not sure yet)
0.0.2 Blue Phase Dumpys Tree Frog (Sticky, Squishy)

"tame" is a funny word. tractability is more about trust, security and lack of stress more than anything.

"glass dancing" and tail whipping are signs of stress and defensiveness.

addressing those issues isn't about taming the animal, it is about providing a proper environment where the animal feels safe and secure, and stress free. i still think it goes back to your setup and hide spot selection.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

he now has three hides all at different temps zones and are actually different hights. so he can climb to them and go in them.
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Jeff Kearney
Orlando, FL

1.0.0 Egyptian Uromastyx (Dino)
2.7.0 Bearded Dragons (Too many to name)
1.0.0 Mali Uromastyx (Rex)
2.2.0 Ball Python (Ali, Gator, Para, Medic)
0.1.1 Leopard Gecko (Layla, Nubbs, Iggy)
0.2.0 Fat-Tailed Gecko (Penelope, Brownie)
0.0.1 Corn Snake (Not sure yet)
0.0.2 Blue Phase Dumpys Tree Frog (Sticky, Squishy)

Robyn,

Is this a sign that you may be getting back into Uros?

-Paul

I would be very slow to try to "Tame" your Uro. Give him time to adjust to the surroundings. As Robyn said, if he does not feel secure, he will act out defensively. You would too. Let him relax, get into a routine. Let him become acclimated to you and being fed by you. I agree with Robyn's idea of covering the cage during part of the time to reduce stress created by you, things moving, etc...He sounds freaked out. Even your best intentions can become very stressful to an animal. Just give him proper care and time to relax. Good luck.
E

response to earlier post?
I had mine drop of feeding for a time or reduce feedings because of pending sheds.

no he hasnt shed yet.
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Jeff Kearney
Orlando, FL

1.0.0 Egyptian Uromastyx (Dino)
2.7.0 Bearded Dragons (Too many to name)
1.0.0 Mali Uromastyx (Rex)
2.2.0 Ball Python (Ali, Gator, Para, Medic)
0.1.1 Leopard Gecko (Layla, Nubbs, Iggy)
0.2.0 Fat-Tailed Gecko (Penelope, Brownie)
0.0.1 Corn Snake (Not sure yet)
0.0.2 Blue Phase Dumpys Tree Frog (Sticky, Squishy)

lizards will choose security over temps, and this overly defensive, scared behavior is telling you that he doesn't feel safe and secure in the cage.

look to create some better hides, in multiple temperature zones. consider putting some loosely crumpled newspaper across the bottom of the cage. that will allow the Uro to come out and explore the cage, without feeling too exposed and vulnerable.

also consider covering the sides of the tank with paper for a while. too much outisde commotion can cause stress, especially if the hides in the tank are poorly done. adding all that extra visual security can decrease the fear and stress, over time. as the animal becomes better acclimated, you can start removing the paper, but always have terrific hidespots available.

terrific hides are dark, tight, form fitting, and most of all, short, so that the animals can feel them right over their backs, like a crevice.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles