Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Can anyone tell me how to sex adult desert iguanas? I have searched online but I can't find anything on how to determine the sex or photos that illustrate the differences. Thanks for your help.

Well, I sexed mine by gently pulling the tail up and looking just below the vent. The males are larger than the females, at least mine is, and the males have two hemipenal bulges that are located along the underside of the tail, along the sides. The females don't, and might have one bulge right in front of the vent.

They are just like beardies. Have you ever sexed a beardie? Can you find pics of beardies?

Here is an article with pics on sexing beardies, and desert iggies are very similar:
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/

Thank you for the help. I have sexed beardies before and I'll give it try. I purchased a pair of desert iguanas from an expo this weekend. One is eating good and has a tiny bit of weight on it. I believe it's a female. Half of it's tail has been chopped off but I'm making sure it does not get infected and using neosporin on it. The second iggy is pretty thin and I have not witnessed it eating yet. It looked half dead when I bought it but it has perked up since the weekend and is finally moving around the cage. I believe it's male. This morning he was awake early and even chased the female around a few times. I have soaked them twice and I'll soak the male again later today.

Bless your heart, poor things!

Mine were on the thin side when I first got them, but they have put on weight beautifully since. I just feed them as many flowers as I can find, lots of endive, bok choy, collareds, and chopped squash, and a tiny bit of fruit and beans, all dusted w/ cal. of course.

I also noticed that when their MVB burned out, they got super cranky and slowed on the eating. As soon as I replaced it, they perked back up again. So, I highly recommend putting a mercury vapor bulb over them and keep the basking temps on the high end of a beardie range, say 110-120 ish. They are very heat tolerant, and at least prefer the uvb.

Yes they love it hot. Also di's are omnivorous and most relish slow moving worm type insects. I would offer meal worms, zoophobas and especially wax worms(high in fat) to get weight on them if they will take them. You can then worry about getting a more balanced diet after they pick up some weight and acclimate. I would hestitate to soak them as this is very stressfull. I would maybe mist them instead to get water in them if dehydrated. Try to puddle some water on a rock or something. Keep handling to a minimum as this really stresses them also. Good luck. Tom Also dandilion flowers if you can find some.

Tom, I threw a super into my di viv, and the two friendly ones were very curious about it but had no intention of eating it. It was funny to watch! I wish I had my camera handy

Mine also go for hybiscus, and those daisy like wild flowers. I think the flowers increase the appetite.

But Tom, I have a question about temps. Some people say that they should be kept more like beardies with a basking temp range between 100-110, but I have read that they are active during the hottest part of the day in the desert. I know how hot it gets there. Wlould you say that basking temps should be more like a uro or monitor, say 120-130? Also, how about chucks? Should they be kept more like a uro as well?

I would say they like it hot, so keep them more like Uromsastyx than beardies. Also chucks like it pretty hot as they are from some of the same areas as the dipsos.

My female that just laid eggs really loves waxworms, and she gaining weight quickly. Also small grashoppers are good food items over here. But besides the insects the eat lots of greens like andive, paksoi, flowers etc.

gr. Kamiel

haha, I had a "wish I had the camera" moment as well. My youngest DI got lucky when I closed the cage apparently a fly had gotten in there somehow. I wish I had video because he kept stalking it like a cat. He could not catch it for the life of him. He finally got it when the fly completely wore itself out to the point where it could barely move lol. It was the funniest thing I saw him do and I didn't have the camera.. ahh! However, DIs seem to be full of personality and it is fun to have them around on a daily basis. Definately the coolest lizards I have ever had.

-Matt
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0.0.3 Desert Iguanas(Dipsosaurus dorsalis)
1.2.0 Tucson Banded Geckos(Coleonyx variegatus bogerti)
1.0.0 California Alligator Lizards(Elgaria multicarinata multicarinata)
0.0.1 San Diego Gopher Snake(Pituophis catenifer annectens)

Anybody ever see a Desert Ig run full throttle? They lift up their front legs when they get up to speed and run on their hind legs! It's a hoot!

Yes, one of my girls is rather skittish, and when I do maintainance, she does that. The collareds do too, and when I soak one collared male, he is smart enough to stand upright on his hind legs and try to hop up and out of the bath that way! It cracks me up!

Thanks for all of the helpful info. I have been keeping them in a similar enclosure to my chucks with the basking spot at 105 degrees and the cool spot at 80 degrees. Should I increase the hot side? I was happy to see my probable male eat this morning. I placed tiny amounts of mixed greens throughout their enclosure and around their hiding spots today. He ate some of the pieces close to the basking area so I am very relieved. When I woke this morning I also noticed a huge amount of greens missing from the feeding dish. I have been leaving the basking bulb on 24/7 while the pair is acclimating and he wakes up early so he may be snacking before I get up. I tried meal worms but neither of them have eaten any yet. The male is very skiddish and runs for cover anytime I open the enclosure or get too close. The female is much more relaxed and just sits and watches me. Her tail is looking much better and seems to be healing nicely. Do iggys tails regenerate?

http://www.anapsid.org/dichuck.html

I just popped in to say hi and YES the tails come back, just lack the cool pattern they are a bit darkish, but my Hersheys came back even longer than what had orginally dropped, just darker and no pattern.

Thanks for your kind words up top my agama post , your always sweet
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PHEve / Eve

I don't think it is a good idea to keep the lights on 24/7. They need a cool down and sleep period every day to stay healthy. I would only keep the lights on for 12 hours and off for 12. If I have a new animal that hasn't become familiarized with the viv, I turn off the tank lights but leave on another light close by so that they have some dim light and can see well enough to find a secure, comfortable spot to sleep. I guess I leave an external light on for 10-15 minutes, and then make it completely dark.

As for temps, if dehydration isn't a problem then I would increase the temps. I notice that mine stay under the basking light most of the day. They wander over to the cool side to eat, but stay under the basking light the rest of the time. HOWEVER, if you suspect that they are even a little dehydrated, wait until you get them hydrated to raise the temps.