Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I got my baby female about 3 weeks ago. It took her a week to eat. And last week she was shedding, and she had a mite problem that is fine now. I took her to the vet and he said she was fine. He put some frontline on her. I cleaned the cage with black knight spray. I removed all the bedding. I put some "Mite Gaurd" powder under the paper towels. I have the temp at 90 degrees F pretty much all the time on the warm side. And it has been 2 weeks since she last ate. Some people have suggested it is cuz of the mites before, and her shedding. Some others have said it's cuz she is in a cage that is too big. It is 3 feet left to right, 2 feet high, and 18inches deep. But I don't feed her in the cage, never have. I put her in a shoebox type container, and I've tried the paper bag deal. I left her in the bag for over an hour and put the rat pup in with her, and nothing.

Some guy suggested I give her a small mouse. He said that maybe she is just over the small food and wants something bigger and won't eat the rat pups anymore. Please someone, ANYONE give me a clue to what is going on with my baby girl.

I just hope it's not RI.

Richard

She has eaten for you before, right? Shedding really may have been the cause of it, I know most of my snakes won't eat when they are shedding. They will of course look like they are playing with the animal..sometimes cuddling it.

If you only had her for three weeks, I would wait and try to feed her on a Sunday... if she doesn't take it, try again wednesday. Don't force her with it EVERY day. Make sure the prey is small enough for her. I know rat pups should be fine, but you may just want to give her a mouse to get her going again. Id dhe eating frozen/thawed? Or live?

Good luck feeding her, just give her time. Most new snakes have to have some time to get acclimated to thier environment before they will take food on a regular basis.

Joel

I don't know where to start, but there are some problems:

1) you are going way over board on the various products you are using to eradicate mites: this in itself could kill your snake. take the snake out, scrub the cage out and start over with the mite treatment. if you want a sure fire and safe method for getting rid of mites, without the guess work, try pro products provent a mite

2) cage: that size is fine and even though larger than what breeders rear their hatchlings in, this is certainly not too big

3) temps: you didn't mention the range of temps in your cage. hopefully, there is a temp gradient so that teh snake can choose between warm and cooler areas in the cage.

4) feeding: FEED YOUR SNAKE IN ITS OWN CAGE! Whoever told you to do otherwise if utterly fooled and has no real good idea as to appropriate feeding methods for large constrictors. Your snake will be far more likely to feed well if fed in its own cage where it feels secure....you are providing hiding areas on the warm and cool areas of the cage?

5) last, give this snake time to acclimate; keep handling to a minimum until it is feeding well.

Hope this helps. Rob Carmichael

There is atleast a 5 degree difference from the warm to the cool side. I can't get it any cooler on the cool side.

The reason I feed it outside it's cage, is because I was told that I should. They said, that way, she doesn't get use to food coming into the cage when it is opened, and will limit the chances of her biting or striking when the cage is opened. It is a front opening, with sliding doors.

The mite powder is lightly sprinkled under the paper towels. She doesnt get under there.

I'll put another hiding spot on the cool side.

How much should I handle her? I spend atleast 30 minutes everyday with her. I want as docile a python as possible.

Richard

But it heightens the likelihood of getting struck while the snake is in feed mode. Its not such a big deal now but when your baby is no longer a baby, its a risk you can't afford to take. Feed in the cage.

That is absolutely right. People who give this foolish nonsense advice have never cared for a burm any bigger than perhaps 10'. It makes absolutely no sense to feed a large snake outside of its cage for the very reasons stated. It also greatly increases stress on the snake because after eating a large meal (like a 15 lb rabbit) the last thing that a burm wants to do is to be moved around. And, should that burm still be hungry, you now have the task of moving a snake that is still hungry....very dangerous stuff. As long as you practive responsible management procedures when feeding large snakes inside their own cage, no harm will come to the owner. This requires the use of snake hooks, LONG tongs when introducing prey and appropriate shields when taking the snake out. I have NEVER been bit by a large burm in the 25 years of serious keeping of large constrictors as a result of taking them out of their cage or while introducing food.

Even lightly sprinkling the powder could cause severe reactions so just because it is under paper towels doesn't mean anything; you are endangering this animal's well being and you really should consider using a reputable produce like pro products.

I really appreciate the advice. I will wait a few days before feeding her again. And I will clean out the cage completely of any powerders.

I will start feedingher in her own cage from on. And use the precaustions suggested.

Thank you everyone for your help. I'll keep you updated.

Richard

Well I cleaned out her cage. I gave her a few days alone.
hiding box on the cool side too.

I put in a mouse today, and BOOM! Instant eating. No playing with it. No cuddling with it. Strictly business.

Thank you guys so much for all your help.

Richard