Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I have been building my own racks for a few years now, and have come to a conclusion or two. First, the melamine they sell at Home Depot is total junk. I already need to replace a large melamine rack, due to the shelves sagging, and it is only a couple years old. I like melamine because of the finish, and I can use lidless tubs without sealing the rack. However, I cannot find the "good stuff" anywhere in my area, and I imagine that if I did, it would be so expensive that I may as well just buy a pre-made professional rack.

Second, the MDF that HD sells holds up well, but not water resistant in its unfinished state, which is how I left it on the racks I built using it. Also, it is as heavy (or maybe even heavier) as melamine, and I am tired of working with such heavy stuff.

I have been looking at birch plywood lately, as a possibility for future racks, but have a few questions for the experienced folks here. How good, durability, longevity, and strength-wise, is birch plywood in comparison to MDF? What are some good sealers, for plywood or MDF, that I can get at Home Depot or Lowes? I was recently reading a "how to" on building a rack using hollow core doors, and the builder reccomended polyurethane. Is this stuff safe as a sealer for snakes? I want to use my racks with lidless tubs, since (imho) one of the most important features of a rack is convenience and ease of use. Thanks for any feedback.

-Toby Brock

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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

First off it took you how long to realize the big box store's Melamine is crap? LOL

Seriously contact a cabinent shop, they have or can get the heavy weight melamine anything over 100 is pretty good. Not to mention white isn't the only color....

MDF is heavier than most Melamine product....

Again with the Birth Ply there really is two products Birch lam and Baltic Birch. The latter has all plys made of Baltic or finnish or even russian birch where as the former is usually 2 thin laminents over a pine ply core, or even fibercore in some regions.

The BB is far superior although there are some rumors that the big box store BB isn't up to par with the cabinent grade stuff sold at cabinent shops.

The advantage to ply over MDF is the ability to take fastners, pre drilling is a plus but MDF usually splits regardless when you attempt a fastner into the board end.

>>What are some good sealers, for plywood or MDF, that I can get at Home Depot or Lowes?

Chris Harper....Calling Chris Harper......

I got tired of dealing with everything you mentioned, and with limited time on hand, I just bought an ARS Rack. I'm glad I did, but still hope to go back and build cages again someday.

Cheers
-----
Jeremy Payne

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost **coming soon**
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost **coming soon**
1.1 Khal Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
2.0 Child

Thanks for the Response, Jeremy.

>>First off it took you how long to realize the big box store's Melamine is crap? LOL

Haha! Yeah, uh I tend to do things the hard way the first time or two. I did not realize that there was better melamine at the time I bought the stuff, and by the time I did know, the rack was built!

>>Seriously contact a cabinent shop, they have or can get the heavy weight melamine anything over 100 is pretty good. Not to mention white isn't the only color....

I like melamine, but I think I might just go with plywood sealed with poly urethane or something, for the next rack. I have about had it with nearly breaking my back lugging melamine and MDF around.

>>MDF is heavier than most Melamine product....

Thought it might be - the 28 qt tub rack in the photo weighs a ton!

>>Again with the Birth Ply there really is two products Birch lam and Baltic Birch. The latter has all plys made of Baltic or finnish or even russian birch where as the former is usually 2 thin laminents over a pine ply core, or even fibercore in some regions.
>>
>>The BB is far superior although there are some rumors that the big box store BB isn't up to par with the cabinent grade stuff sold at cabinent shops.

Thanks, I will look into the Baltic Birch from a cabinet shop, since I really want quality materials that are going to last.

>>The advantage to ply over MDF is the ability to take fastners, pre drilling is a plus but MDF usually splits regardless when you attempt a fastner into the board end.

Yeah, the majority of my racks have been made of MDF, and I have had my share of splitting. Really ruins your day when everything else is going great, and then the stuff splits - after being pre-drilled.

>>>>What are some good sealers, for plywood or MDF, that I can get at Home Depot or Lowes?
>>
>>Chris Harper....Calling Chris Harper......

Well, I've been looking back at a lot of posts discussing this topic, and it seems like many things will work. I am thinking that poly urethane will probably work for what I want. just a good, hard coating that is moisture resistant. I picked up some Minwax stain/poly urethane combination stuff. If you read this Chris, what do you think of that stuff? I plan on testing it on one of my little MDF shoebox racks.

>>I got tired of dealing with everything you mentioned, and with limited time on hand, I just bought an ARS Rack. I'm glad I did, but still hope to go back and build cages again someday.

I would love to buy all of my cages and racks from professional builders, but it's just too expensive. I recently bought a couple AP cages, which I love, and plan on getting more - when I can. I was thinking of trying to get some racks from them also, but it will take me longer than I want, to get that kind of money together. Besides, box-style racks are pretty easy to build, once you get a feel for what you are doing. Just gotta make sure the materials are good - apparently.

-Toby Brock

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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

The high quality melamine is not very expensive and still one of the better materials for racks. Hollow core doors are also good, however. Some of the edge-banded melamine shelves you find at home centers are the high quality stuff and I have built budget racks from them.

Before I carry on, can you tell us what sized box this is for and the general design of the rack (i.e. how many boxes per level, will the slide in length or width-wise?). I have some comments regarding plywood but would like to know the design first. One comment I will make is that the weight savings are not that great compared to melamine or mdf so don't use plywood if weight savings is your primary goal.

Regarding sealers, polyurethane is safe assuming you stick with the waterborne products. But they tend to be a bit expensive and I only recommend them if one wants a clear finish. For the same or less money you can get a more water and vapor resistant finish with a paint or primer/sealer. Can't see why you'd want a clear finish on the underside of a rack that is otherwise not seen.

I would not use an oil based polyurethane on a rack.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

Thanks very much, Chris.

>>The high quality melamine is not very expensive and still one of the better materials for racks. Hollow core doors are also good, however. Some of the edge-banded melamine shelves you find at home centers are the high quality stuff and I have built budget racks from them.

I "think" I know what you are talking about with the edge-banded melamine, and I was looking at some melamine with a finished edge, but it was only 15" wide and 8' long. it did not seem too strong, to me, but maybe it is just because it is so long and narrow. I have seriously considered hollow core doors, but I don't like the thickness of the door, somehow.

>>Before I carry on, can you tell us what sized box this is for and the general design of the rack (i.e. how many boxes per level, will the slide in length or width-wise?). I have some comments regarding plywood but would like to know the design first. One comment I will make is that the weight savings are not that great compared to melamine or mdf so don't use plywood if weight savings is your primary goal.

Well, I have a few different sized boxes that I want to build racks for. First, I need to replace the big, sagging melamine rack which uses 41 qt Sterilite tubs. The rack was using them sideways, but I am thinking of making the replacement a deep (length) style rack. I have not completely decided this point yet, however. Well, I have hefted sheets of MDF, melamine and various plywoods, and I know that plywood is at least a little lighter than the other two. Other than weight, I am more concerned with having a finished rack that will last many years without sagging. Other size tubs I want to build racks for are: 32 qt Sterilite (deep style), 32/15 qt Sterilite (wide style), and 6 qt Sterilite shoeboxes.

>>Regarding sealers, polyurethane is safe assuming you stick with the waterborne products. But they tend to be a bit expensive and I only recommend them if one wants a clear finish. For the same or less money you can get a more water and vapor resistant finish with a paint or primer/sealer. Can't see why you'd want a clear finish on the underside of a rack that is otherwise not seen.
>>
>>I would not use an oil based polyurethane on a rack.

LOL! I just bought a can of oil based polyurethane/stain, so I guess I will be returning that. I really don't care what the inside of the rack looks like, but I would kind of like a sealer or paint that I can coat the entire thing with (inside and out) and have the finished rack look nice. Can you reccommend a type/brand of paint, primer/sealer, or waterbourne polyurethane?

-Toby Brock

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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

It seems odd that you are having trouble with sagging.

I have very little experience with rack building, only one small hatchling rack to date, but it is self supporting for the most part. Each box holds up the shelf above and so on, keeping the boards in their original form.

Are the sides of the tubs flexing from the weight above?

>>It seems odd that you are having trouble with sagging.
>>
>>I have very little experience with rack building, only one small hatchling rack to date, but it is self supporting for the most part. Each box holds up the shelf above and so on, keeping the boards in their original form.
>>
>>Are the sides of the tubs flexing from the weight above?

I have built eight or nine racks, so far, and have pretty much figured out how to do it now. The rack which is sagging is the white melamine rack in my photo. It uses 41 qt tubs sideways, so part of the problem is probably having no support along the long edges of the shelves. Each shelf is roughly 18" x 36", so it's much larger than a hatchling shoebox rack. It is difficult to see, but believe me, even a small sag is enough to cause big problems, with this material. My smaller racks using MDF have better support, and will likely hold up for many years. The melamine I used is the cheap crap that Home Depot sells, and as has been mentioned, there are different grades of the stuff. Believe me, I wish the stuff was not sagging, but it is getting harder every day, to get the tubs in and out of this rack. I will probably have to resort to taking all of the tubs out of the rack, and stacking them until I get the rack replaced. If I had made the rack to use the lids of the tubs, this probably would not have been such a problem, at least not so soon, but the small gap I left at the top of the tubs has closed in the middle, and yes, now the weight is on the tubs, which is not good in this case.

-Toby
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

Yeah, I see what you mean, it must be that the long sides of the tubs aren't strong enough to support the shelves.

I wonder if the higher grade melamine is any better from a structual standpoint? I bet Chris knows what is different about it.

The melamine board our cabinet people use on the jobsite uses mdf as a substrate instead of particle board. I am not sure though if that would be much more resistant to sagging with that long of a shelf though.

Maybe your idea to turn the tubs long front to back is the best solution.

Keep us posted.

Just a real quick reply. I'll have to get back to this post later today or tomorrow.

The particle board interior found in high quality melamine products is denser and likely a bit more rigid. The MDF core melamine is probably the most flexible of the melamine products except for maybe the lowest quality particle board core stuff.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

>>Just a real quick reply. I'll have to get back to this post later today or tomorrow.
>>
>>The particle board interior found in high quality melamine products is denser and likely a bit more rigid. The MDF core melamine is probably the most flexible of the melamine products except for maybe the lowest quality particle board core stuff.

The melamine I have gotten from home Depot has particle board interior, so maybe it is actually decent stuff? Maybe it was mainly bad design, with no support for the long sides, that has caused the rack to sag so soon. My other racks (made out of MDF) have the shelves better supported, and they have no issues, aside from being un-sealed MDF, and ugly as sin.

I called around to a few places today, looking for higher grade melamine and Baltic Birch. One place had Baltic Birch plywood 5' x 5' sheets for $28 plus tax - ouch! They also had melamine with particle board interior 4' x 8' sheets for about half what Home Depot sells theirs for. However, the person I talked to did not know what grade the melamine is. I also looked at Home Depot (again) at some pretty nice looking "cabinet grade" plywood, for $30 for a 4' x 8' sheet. Also saw some water based polyurethane for $35 for a jug - the only size sold there.

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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

>>One place had Baltic Birch plywood 5' x 5' sheets for $28 plus tax - ouch!

What size is the material in thickness, that's a good price. Around here you looking at $3 a sq foot on average for 3/4" BB Ply. Last I checked the 4'x8' sheets at Menards were $64 a sheet for 3/4" material.

Also remember 5x5 yeilds more than 4x8 for deeper racks. Although melamine is 49" x 97" at most shops..

You should ask the resin weight not the grade, when refering to melamine.
-----
Jeremy Payne

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost **coming soon**
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost **coming soon**
1.1 Khal Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
2.0 Child

>>What size is the material in thickness, that's a good price. Around here you looking at $3 a sq foot on average for 3/4" BB Ply. Last I checked the 4'x8' sheets at Menards were $64 a sheet for 3/4" material.

That Baltic Birch was 1/2" stuff.

>>Also remember 5x5 yeilds more than 4x8 for deeper racks. Although melamine is 49" x 97" at most shops..

Yeah, I've been doing the math on cuts from a 5x5 sheet, and wish I could get some melamine that size.

>>You should ask the resin weight not the grade, when refering to melamine.

Thanks - will do, next time. The only place where I found melamine today, other than HD was McCoy's, where the person I spoke to only knew that it was melamine with a particle board interior. I think I remember you or Chris saying 100 wt is good?

-Toby
-----
Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

>>I think I remember you or Chris saying 100 wt is good?

Yarp....100 or better will do you good...
-----
Jeremy Payne

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost **coming soon**
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost **coming soon**
1.1 Khal Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
2.0 Child

The melamine I have gotten from home Depot has particle board interior, so maybe it is actually decent stuff?

Most products we call melamine on this forum have a particle board interior. When we talk about the quality of a melamine product it usually is in reference to the thickness of the melamine layer itself on the particle board. But generally as you get a higher quality product the particle board is also of higher quality, specifically more dense.

I made a quick skim through the rest of the thread and it does sound like your melamine rack is sagging due to a design issue, specifically not having the back of the shelves attached to the pegboard back.

I see this thread has had a lot of activity. I'll try to go through each post and reply to each question rather than making one lengthy reply. Let me know if you have any further questions. I'm guessing you already have plenty of good advice.
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

>>Most products we call melamine on this forum have a particle board interior. When we talk about the quality of a melamine product it usually is in reference to the thickness of the melamine layer itself on the particle board. But generally as you get a higher quality product the particle board is also of higher quality, specifically more dense.

This melamine (from HD) has fairly thick feeling/looking melamine, and I have not noticed any bubbling or peeling. My local HD used to carry it in 4x8 sheets, but seems to have gone to only having it in 2x4 sheets and 12" and 15" shelves.

>>I made a quick skim through the rest of the thread and it does sound like your melamine rack is sagging due to a design issue, specifically not having the back of the shelves attached to the pegboard back.

Yep, bad oversight on my part. It did not really occur to me that that might have had something to do with it until this thread - duh! I have decided to try to salvage the shelves themselves, and just turn them lengthwise and put on new sides. I went ahead and got the plywood for the new sides (couldn't find 4x8 sheets of melamine anywhere), which I went a bit more expensive on than I had planned, and got a 4x8 sheet of "cabinet grade" ply from HD. I wanted to use cheaper ply, but everything else was warped, and I want a rack that will last a good several years.

>>I see this thread has had a lot of activity. I'll try to go through each post and reply to each question rather than making one lengthy reply. Let me know if you have any further questions. I'm guessing you already have plenty of good advice.

Thanks a lot, Chris, you and Jeremy have been a big help and this thread has been a good learning experience for me.

-Toby
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

For a rack I would not worry too much about the quality of the melamine. I doubt you're finding thermofused melamine at your local HD except for maybe in the pre-cut/edge-banded shelving. Everything else is probably the cheaper melamine foil stuff. But again for a rack it really does not matter. I even kept tree vipers in a rack made from cheap melamine and I completely soaked their tubs a few timers per week. No problems.

I think rebuilding your rack is a good idea as is changing the design. I have salvaged and resused shelves from racks before with no trouble.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

...questions. I will probably keep using melamine (whether good or bad), and want to seal the edges, at least. I have used that cheap, iron on edging for a couple racks and I don't like it. I saw the post below where you were talking about painting the edges of a melamine rack. - So, primer/sealer (water based?), then an (acrylic? water based?) paint? Does that sound right? I tried this with my first MDF rack, and the paint always felt slightly tacky. Any suggestions?

-Toby
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

I think that will work. Don't know why your last attempt stayed tacky. Maybe one or more of the coats was too thick?
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

Typically the higher quality higher weight melamine just deals with the amount of resin used with the product.

However I used melamine product tht was comrised with wheat fiber, although I can't say it was anymore durable than the cabinent grade product I used.

I would stay away from the MDF entirly for long un-supported shelves, and potential anything with wheat fiber.

A lot comes down to the glue used in manufacture.

Cheers
-----
Jeremy Payne

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost **coming soon**
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost **coming soon**
1.1 Khal Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
2.0 Child

>>Typically the higher quality higher weight melamine just deals with the amount of resin used with the product.
>>
>>However I used melamine product tht was comrised with wheat fiber, although I can't say it was anymore durable than the cabinent grade product I used.
>>
>>I would stay away from the MDF entirly for long un-supported shelves, and potential anything with wheat fiber.
>>
>>A lot comes down to the glue used in manufacture.

I'd like to get away from MDF for any any project - tired of the stuff. The people I have talked to don't seem to know what grade of melamine they have. I called a "specialty" store that is supposed to sell hard to find building materials, and they didn't even know what melamine was - had to describe it to them! I'll hit the cabinet makers tomorrow.

-Toby
-----
Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

>>>>Before I carry on, can you tell us what sized box this is for and the general design of the rack (i.e. how many boxes per level, will the slide in length or width-wise?). I have some comments regarding plywood but would like to know the design first. One comment I will make is that the weight savings are not that great compared to melamine or mdf so don't use plywood if weight savings is your primary goal.

I forgot to give the dimensions of the rack. 49"H x 38"W x 18"D. It holds seven 41 qt tubs. I think the replacement will be a deep style rack, as it seems like it would be more structurally sound. The more I think about it, the more I lean toward using melamine again - IF I can find some better stuff, that is. I would rather skip the painting and sealing headache if I can.

-Toby
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

I think Jeremy has already touched on how some materials have better yield when building racks for bigger boxes. 4x8 sheets tend to not work so well while HC doors and true BB ply are better. But it depends on the box, of course.

IIRC, the 41 qt. is just a bit wide to yield three shelves across the 49" width of melamine or MDF. I think the max number of shelves you can get from a 4x8 sheet is five.

BB ply in its 5x5 size would only yield 4 shelves. I think 1/2" BB ply in 1/2" would work well if it was well supported so it really boils down to cost vs. yield and what you're willing to pay for when it comes to weight savings and appearance. I think BB ply would look great with it's high-ply edges but you would have to seal it.

HC doors would also yield 4 shelves but from the sounds of things it would be a lot more work that you really want to deal with.
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

OK I'm thinking aloud here....what if you bought some melamine sheet(bear in mind melamine is just the plastic skin) then adhere the melamine skin to a piece of high grade plywood.

Then cut the plywood into shelves and put the melamine on the BOTTOM. Finish the rack sides and back with a less expensive material.

Home Depot used to sell the melamine skin in a self stick version, but I believe they discontinued it. I'm sure it can be found on the net.

Like I said.....just thinking out loud.

>>OK I'm thinking aloud here....what if you bought some melamine sheet(bear in mind melamine is just the plastic skin) then adhere the melamine skin to a piece of high grade plywood.
>>
>>Then cut the plywood into shelves and put the melamine on the BOTTOM. Finish the rack sides and back with a less expensive material.
>>
>>Home Depot used to sell the melamine skin in a self stick version, but I believe they discontinued it. I'm sure it can be found on the net.
>>
>>Like I said.....just thinking out loud.

I like that idea okay, but wonder how much I would be looking at paying. It might be cheaper and easier to just paint the bottoms of the shelves with a water based polyurethane - don't know. I will check into that melamine sheet though, and thanks.

-Toby
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

One more idea. (I must have too much time on my hands today)

If you applied a very rigid trim, like oak maybe, to the front of your existing shelves, it may straighten them right up.

Another option would be a strip of aluminium screwed to the front of the shelves.

The back of each shelf is attached to the back panel of the rack right? If not that would help alot too.

>>One more idea. (I must have too much time on my hands today)
>>
>>If you applied a very rigid trim, like oak maybe, to the front of your existing shelves, it may straighten them right up.
>>
>>Another option would be a strip of aluminium screwed to the front of the shelves.
>>
>>The back of each shelf is attached to the back panel of the rack right?

No, the back panel is pegboard just tacked on around the sides - one of my oversights on this rack. I agree that it would have helped a lot to have the back wall attached to all of the shelves.

I am actually considering trying to "fix" the rack, or really rebuild it. I am thinking that I might reuse the shelves, and just get new material for the sides, and make a deep-style rack. I will have to leave a little bigger gap above each tub, than last time, but that'll be alright - they are fairly thick snakes in those tubs.

-Toby
-----
Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research

>>OK I'm thinking aloud here....what if you bought some melamine sheet(bear in mind melamine is just the plastic skin) then adhere the melamine skin to a piece of high grade plywood.
>>
>>Then cut the plywood into shelves and put the melamine on the BOTTOM. Finish the rack sides and back with a less expensive material.
>>
>>Home Depot used to sell the melamine skin in a self stick version, but I believe they discontinued it. I'm sure it can be found on the net.
>>
>>Like I said.....just thinking out loud.

Melamine is a thermofused plastic its only in sheet form during production. The only product similar would be Formica a laminate that you can use contact adhesive to attach to plywood.

The stick on melamine was a foil like product that is fairly week and not ment for the abuse it would see in a cage. They also make a banding that's relativly week and meant to be ironed on.

Way more work for little gain...

Formica is very durable and available at many cabinent shop's as well as a Lowes. Although they don't carry the Formica brand...
-----
Jeremy Payne

"I am become death, the destroyer of worlds" July 16, 1945 Robert Oppenheimer

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost **coming soon**
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost **coming soon**
1.1 Khal Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic
1.1 Cream Golden Retrieviers
1.0 Pomeriaian
0.3 Catus Terribilis
0.1 Spouse
2.0 Child

Hmmm, well maybe things have changed then.

I used that self stick melamine from HD for a lot of projects and it seemed quite durable actually. It was fairly thick and nice and flexible.

It was also available at a local cabinet supply in 1x8 and 2x8 sheets in several colors.

I haven't been to that shop in over ten years, and haven't had reason to look into this product otherwise, so maybe that idea is totally unfeasable now.

Here ya go...
Try PVCX...you may find some older threads by me about it in the archives...

more info...
http://northeastsnakes.com/racks.html
-----
Sincerely, Jason
www.NortheastSnakes.com
NortheastSnakes@verizon.net

>>Here ya go...
>>Try PVCX...you may find some older threads by me about it in the archives...

Thanks Jason! Yep, I remember those threads, and I even talked to you via email once, I think. I couldn't find that stuff in my area. I may have been looking in the wrong places, though. Those are some nice, light looking racks, and I might try to find PVCX again, for my next rack. I'm already rebuilding the 41 qt rack using new plywood and the old shelves.

-Toby Brock
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Southwestern Center for Herpetological Research