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Hey guys I have been a long time lurker here on kingsnake.com and avid snake lover. I have always loved snakes but of course the parents and anyone else I loved with was terrified of snakes. Well I finally broke my husband down and we got our first snake in late January early February. Now we are proud snake parents and have 6 snakes now. We plan to have many more. I do have some minor questions about housing and heating of large enclosures and I just cannot find the answer to my question. I have a 200 gallon tank that has 1"-1.5" thick glass on this tank. Well here's the issue The tank is so thick that under heating pads don't work, and ceramic heaters are not heating it up enough. What would be the happy medium?

1.2 CBB Albino/Suriname Columbian
0.1 Okeetee Cornsnake (Hubbys snake =D)
0.1 Cinnamon Ball Python
1.0 Albino Burmese Python

use both... use the undertank heater and ceramic emmitter... if its entirely too cold in the tank... get 2 emitters...
one on each end of the tank--- keep the under tank heater on one end with the emitter and an emitter alone on teh other...

also- we have a huge tank like that- and we used the undertank heater IN the tank-- we put astro turf over it- and taped it down- taped the cord to the side of the tank as well-- so the snake coldn't get wrapped around it or under the turf... we put newspaper over the turf... works quite well-- just keep your under tank heater on a tstat so it wont burn or melt the turf...

~Beth
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Until there are none, Rescue One! Get ready to welcome the new and improved Oklahoma Animal Rescue Group -- Just a few weeks away from getting our 501c3 status!!!!!

Quote-
"use both... use the undertank heater and ceramic emmitter... if its entirely too cold in the tank... get 2 emitters...
one on each end of the tank--- keep the under tank heater on one end with the emitter and an emitter alone on teh other...

also- we have a huge tank like that- and we used the undertank heater IN the tank-- we put astro turf over it- and taped it down- taped the cord to the side of the tank as well-- so the snake coldn't get wrapped around it or under the turf... we put newspaper over the turf... works quite well-- just keep your under tank heater on a tstat so it wont burn or melt the turf...

~Beth'

Hi Beth, Thanks for the reply!

As far as the underheating of the tank, the glass is entirely too thick. I measured it and its 2 inches thick!

I Have raised the temperature in out home to 75 degree's and higher closer to 80 degrees. We have kept it open air and since we got the tank. and the in tank temp is 85 degrees to 90 degrees with 2 ceramic heat emiters.

I do like the idea of putting an under belly heating element under some type of astro-turf. I will look into that.

thank you for you advice.

Selina

Hi there!

"Well I finally broke my husband down and we got our first snake in late January early February. Now we are proud snake parents and have 6 snakes now."

Are you trying to make up for lost time? Ha! Ha! You're averaging almost one snake a month. You go, girl! (And hubby's scratchin' his head, wondering just what in the world has he gotten himself into.) Hahaha!!!

There are several options for heating your tank which will come down basically a matter of preferrence between overhead or belly heat. Not to insult your intelligence, by any means, but first you should do what you can with the top to help keep heat in.

One setup that I used was a 75-gallon tank, factory made screen lid & one 150-watt CHE (ceramic heating element). I lined the inside of the screen lid with the blue foam insulation board used in housing construction. I cut a round section out of it just slightly larger than the dome that held the CHE and left 1-inch of screen open on the opposite end for ventilation. The single 150-watt CHE barely kept the tank warm enough on cold winter days, but it did.

As Beth said, you can try another CHE, but I'd probably try it on the same end of the tank as the other one instead of opposite ends. They used to make 250-watt CHEs, but I don't know if they're still available or not. I think they are.

With proper ventilation you should be able to get a good temperature gradient. Slightly more ventilation on the cool end than the hot end should do it. It doesn't take as much vent openings as most people seem to think.

For belly heat - I suggest a heat mat that made to be used inside a cage. Kane heat mats are popular but I've never used them so I can't recommend or not recommend that particular brand. I do, however, recommend using this type instead of using an under the tank heat pad inside the tank. One reason is I don't think most of the UTHs are waterproof, and the Kane heat mats are.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about: Heat Mats

They're a bit pricey but should do the trick for you. You might have to use your CHE with it, too, in order to get the ambient temp where it should be. Maybe, maybe not.

From what you've said I don't think a radiant heat panel will work in your case. It won't raise the ambient temps. If your ambient temp is good and you just need to raise the basking temp then they might work. But, they're even pricier than the heat mats. Not by a whole lot, but enough, to me. They can be seen in the same link as the heat mats.

If you're still not sure what you should do describe the top you have and let us know what kind of temperatures you're getting with the CHE (hot end & cool end), plus how many watts the CHE is. Don't forget to take your temperature readings at the snake's level. Also, what is the tank's height? Overhead heating just might not cut it, but you may need some overhead heat to get the right ambient temp.

Bear in mind that winter's just around the corner so extra heating power will likely be needed (more than it would take to get the proper temps now).

Have a good one!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

quote

"Hi there!

"Well I finally broke my husband down and we got our first snake in late January early February. Now we are proud snake parents and have 6 snakes now."

Are you trying to make up for lost time? Ha! Ha! You're averaging almost one snake a month. You go, girl! (And hubby's scratchin' his head, wondering just what in the world has he gotten himself into.) Hahaha!!!

There are several options for heating your tank which will come down basically a matter of preferrence between overhead or belly heat. Not to insult your intelligence, by any means, but first you should do what you can with the top to help keep heat in.

One setup that I used was a 75-gallon tank, factory made screen lid & one 150-watt CHE (ceramic heating element). I lined the inside of the screen lid with the blue foam insulation board used in housing construction. I cut a round section out of it just slightly larger than the dome that held the CHE and left 1-inch of screen open on the opposite end for ventilation. The single 150-watt CHE barely kept the tank warm enough on cold winter days, but it did.

As Beth said, you can try another CHE, but I'd probably try it on the same end of the tank as the other one instead of opposite ends. They used to make 250-watt CHEs, but I don't know if they're still available or not. I think they are.

With proper ventilation you should be able to get a good temperature gradient. Slightly more ventilation on the cool end than the hot end should do it. It doesn't take as much vent openings as most people seem to think.

For belly heat - I suggest a heat mat that made to be used inside a cage. Kane heat mats are popular but I've never used them so I can't recommend or not recommend that particular brand. I do, however, recommend using this type instead of using an under the tank heat pad inside the tank. One reason is I don't think most of the UTHs are waterproof, and the Kane heat mats are.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about: Heat Mats

They're a bit pricey but should do the trick for you. You might have to use your CHE with it, too, in order to get the ambient temp where it should be. Maybe, maybe not.

From what you've said I don't think a radiant heat panel will work in your case. It won't raise the ambient temps. If your ambient temp is good and you just need to raise the basking temp then they might work. But, they're even pricier than the heat mats. Not by a whole lot, but enough, to me. They can be seen in the same link as the heat mats.

If you're still not sure what you should do describe the top you have and let us know what kind of temperatures you're getting with the CHE (hot end & cool end), plus how many watts the CHE is. Don't forget to take your temperature readings at the snake's level. Also, what is the tank's height? Overhead heating just might not cut it, but you may need some overhead heat to get the right ambient temp.

Bear in mind that winter's just around the corner so extra heating power will likely be needed (more than it would take to get the proper temps now).

Have a good one!
HH"

Thanks for the comment. Yes my husband thinks I am nuts but he is having just as much fun as I am. That's all that matters really. I adore large snakes and a Burmese is more than enough snake to love. So I am super excitted to see my baby boy grow!

Okay we are here in Florida, it stays relatively warm year round down here. Typically here in summer it hits 100 degrees and above and is 50% humidity or higher here. As far as heating in the tank I have changed it to 2 ceramic heaters on the top of the tank. The mid tank temperature is 85- some times 90 degrees. We have increased the temerature of our home, to around 75 to 80 degrees. Mind you it was 70 degrees or lower prior to this change.

So size of this tank is massive. But granted it has to be to house a huge ass snake. its 6 feet wide, 3 feet tall and 2 and half feet deep. With 2 inch thick glass. I do not think its a typical type of glass as it does not convect heat worth a [bleep]! Like I have mentioned before the under heating tank think I tried before did not work worth a [bleep]. I have egg rocks as a substrate. They absorb heat relatively well. Dont worry I washed them by hand and picked out all the sharp ones and made sure everything was sterile before going into the tank. We cleaned everything with a 3 step process with 50% bleach and rinsed 2 times with boiling hot water. Yes I am freaking crazy about germs and [bleep]. I am a tattoo artist so that kinda happens. ^^

So anyways back on topic. So where can I get one of these heat mats. I think that would be appealing. Now with the snakes I am housing in this tank I am giving some lee-way on the temperature so there is a variant. But what would be advisable with a red-tail boa and the burmese, I am reading 82-90 degrees and 85-88 degrees for the burmese.

Thanks for any help you have offered so far and continue to offer

selina

You can get Kane Heat mats at The Bean Farm. We get almost all of our supplies from this place and they are some of the nicest and honest people in the industry. Another heating option no one has mentioned is the Pro Product Radiant Heat Panel. I've been using them for many herps for many years and with great success (and we are in the Chicago area which is notorious for terribly cold winters). With your tank, you'll have to build some sort of hood or canopy that can go over the screen top. The heat panel would get mounted to the inside roof of the canopy where it can direct heat down through the screen top and into the cage. They come in various wattages and Bob Pound of Pro Products can advise the perfect size. We absolutely swear by these products.

Burms should have a gradient of 80-82 on the cool side and mid to upper 80's on the warm side with a basking area that reaches the low 90's. For boas, you'll want to go a tad cooler: cool end between 78-80 and warm end in the mid to upper 80's. For both, I would keep night temps in the 75-80 degree range.

Hope this helps.

Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center

>>quote
>>
>>"Hi there!
>>
>>"Well I finally broke my husband down and we got our first snake in late January early February. Now we are proud snake parents and have 6 snakes now."
>>
>>Are you trying to make up for lost time? Ha! Ha! You're averaging almost one snake a month. You go, girl! (And hubby's scratchin' his head, wondering just what in the world has he gotten himself into.) Hahaha!!!
>>
>>There are several options for heating your tank which will come down basically a matter of preferrence between overhead or belly heat. Not to insult your intelligence, by any means, but first you should do what you can with the top to help keep heat in.
>>
>>One setup that I used was a 75-gallon tank, factory made screen lid & one 150-watt CHE (ceramic heating element). I lined the inside of the screen lid with the blue foam insulation board used in housing construction. I cut a round section out of it just slightly larger than the dome that held the CHE and left 1-inch of screen open on the opposite end for ventilation. The single 150-watt CHE barely kept the tank warm enough on cold winter days, but it did.
>>
>>As Beth said, you can try another CHE, but I'd probably try it on the same end of the tank as the other one instead of opposite ends. They used to make 250-watt CHEs, but I don't know if they're still available or not. I think they are.
>>
>>With proper ventilation you should be able to get a good temperature gradient. Slightly more ventilation on the cool end than the hot end should do it. It doesn't take as much vent openings as most people seem to think.
>>
>>For belly heat - I suggest a heat mat that made to be used inside a cage. Kane heat mats are popular but I've never used them so I can't recommend or not recommend that particular brand. I do, however, recommend using this type instead of using an under the tank heat pad inside the tank. One reason is I don't think most of the UTHs are waterproof, and the Kane heat mats are.
>>
>>Here's a link to what I'm talking about: Heat Mats
>>
>>They're a bit pricey but should do the trick for you. You might have to use your CHE with it, too, in order to get the ambient temp where it should be. Maybe, maybe not.
>>
>>From what you've said I don't think a radiant heat panel will work in your case. It won't raise the ambient temps. If your ambient temp is good and you just need to raise the basking temp then they might work. But, they're even pricier than the heat mats. Not by a whole lot, but enough, to me. They can be seen in the same link as the heat mats.
>>
>>If you're still not sure what you should do describe the top you have and let us know what kind of temperatures you're getting with the CHE (hot end & cool end), plus how many watts the CHE is. Don't forget to take your temperature readings at the snake's level. Also, what is the tank's height? Overhead heating just might not cut it, but you may need some overhead heat to get the right ambient temp.
>>
>>Bear in mind that winter's just around the corner so extra heating power will likely be needed (more than it would take to get the proper temps now).
>>
>>Have a good one!
>>HH"
>>
>>
>>Thanks for the comment. Yes my husband thinks I am nuts but he is having just as much fun as I am. That's all that matters really. I adore large snakes and a Burmese is more than enough snake to love. So I am super excitted to see my baby boy grow!
>>
>>Okay we are here in Florida, it stays relatively warm year round down here. Typically here in summer it hits 100 degrees and above and is 50% humidity or higher here. As far as heating in the tank I have changed it to 2 ceramic heaters on the top of the tank. The mid tank temperature is 85- some times 90 degrees. We have increased the temerature of our home, to around 75 to 80 degrees. Mind you it was 70 degrees or lower prior to this change.
>>
>>So size of this tank is massive. But granted it has to be to house a huge ass snake. its 6 feet wide, 3 feet tall and 2 and half feet deep. With 2 inch thick glass. I do not think its a typical type of glass as it does not convect heat worth a [bleep]! Like I have mentioned before the under heating tank think I tried before did not work worth a [bleep]. I have egg rocks as a substrate. They absorb heat relatively well. Dont worry I washed them by hand and picked out all the sharp ones and made sure everything was sterile before going into the tank. We cleaned everything with a 3 step process with 50% bleach and rinsed 2 times with boiling hot water. Yes I am freaking crazy about germs and [bleep]. I am a tattoo artist so that kinda happens. ^^
>>
>>
>>So anyways back on topic. So where can I get one of these heat mats. I think that would be appealing. Now with the snakes I am housing in this tank I am giving some lee-way on the temperature so there is a variant. But what would be advisable with a red-tail boa and the burmese, I am reading 82-90 degrees and 85-88 degrees for the burmese.
>>
>>Thanks for any help you have offered so far and continue to offer
>>
>>selina
-----
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center at Elawa Farm
Lake Forest, IL

Using under tank heat mat's is a big no no. If I'm not mistaken it even says it on the packaging not to use inside tank, I may be wrong on that ? I would use a heat emitter on one side of the cage. You need a hot spot and a non hot spot for the snake to be able to move to either side when it wants. Mike has a good diagram on another post that had to do with humidity. Check it out.
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Education is Everything.......