Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Does anyone know of a power strip that I can use with a dimmer/rheostat so that I can plug in about 10 devices and control all 10 with one switch?

I've decided to go with 4x5 Zoo Med heat pads rather than Flexwatt for my 10 level melamine rack. I use these pads because they are cheap, convenient and I can add them as my collection grows much more easily than Flexwatt. They work great, except that I need to dial down the temp by about 5-10 degrees.

My only other option is to build a back heat panel with Flexwatt (I have an unused 5 foot 11" strip), but I don't know if that will heat the tubs adequately with all the heat escaping from the open sides. Plus, all I have is an on-off t-stat, which, as I understand, is not recommended for heat tape. I'm guessing that the on-off action causes the filament to wear out the same way a light bulb filament wears faster the more it is flicked on and off. This, I imagine would lead to overheating and a fire hazard.

I don't need perfect, accurate temps, just an acceptable range that is safe for my snakes.
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1.1.0 Hondurans Het Amel
1.1.0 Hondurans Anery, Het Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo, Het Anery
0.2.0 Pueblans
1.0.0 Pueblan Hypo
1.0.0 Thayeri MSP
0.0.1 GBK Blair's Phase
1.0.0 California King
0.1.0 California King Blue-eyed Blond
0.0.1 Speckled King WC
0.0.1 Jungle Carpet
0.1.0 Ball, Normal
1.0.0 San Diego Gopher, Poss. Het Applegate
0.0.1 Sulcata
0.1.0 Girlfriend, Caucasius Mexicana, Fiancee Phase

http://www.cafepress.com/shedz

Make your own dimmer switch/rheostat box & duplex receptacle box and wire them together.

Materials needed:
1 - dimmer switch/rheostat
1 - duplex receptacle
2 - single gang boxes
1 - single gang dimmer switch/rheostat face plate
1 - single gang duplex receptacle face plate
Enough wire (I suggest 12/2 with ground) to reach from wall outlet to point of connections - plus an extra foot in length to be used between the dimmer switch box & the receptacle box you're making.

Cost - Aprox. $20(?) It's been awhile since I made mine, can't remember for sure how much it cost but it's fairly cheap and very effective.

Unless you particularly want a surge protector you can easily use several gang boxes with duplex receptacles in them, wired in succession.

I'll try to get afew pics of some of the ones I've made if you want to see what I'm talking about.

All you have to do is go to a "real" electrical supply place and tell 'em what you want and they'll fix you right up. They will most likely even tell you how to go about it. You've gotta be careful about the info you get from some employess at the bug home improvement stores. A small ma & pa hardware would be a good place to go, too.

Chris, Jeremy or Mark may have some photos readily handy of some of theirs.

Have a good one!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

"...bug home improvement stores."

Ha! Ha! That's supposed to be "big" home improvement stores, not "bug". Although, I've had some cases where that typo was befitting.

Later!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Awesome,
Thanks for the info. Some pictures would be appreciated, too. I've done vehicle wiring but never any household type of stuff. I think I can handle it, though, if I can see it.

I got a kick out of the typo, too! Good stuff.
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1.1.0 Hondurans Het Amel
1.1.0 Hondurans Anery, Het Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo, Het Anery
0.2.0 Pueblans
1.0.0 Pueblan Hypo
1.0.0 Thayeri MSP
0.0.1 GBK Blair's Phase
1.0.0 California King
0.1.0 California King Blue-eyed Blond
0.0.1 Speckled King WC
0.0.1 Jungle Carpet
0.1.0 Ball, Normal
1.0.0 San Diego Gopher, Poss. Het Applegate
0.0.1 Sulcata
0.1.0 Girlfriend, Caucasius Mexicana, Fiancee Phase

http://www.cafepress.com/shedz

Basic housewiring is simple, you'll make it with ease.

I'll give it my best to get some photos this evening. It may be late this evening but I should have 'em posted for ya by tomorrow morning (Sat.).

One thing I realize I left off "Materials Needed" list - 1 male electrical plug w/ground probe (3-prong).

One other thing - Most dimmer switches are rated 600-watt maximum. You just have to make sure that everything you intend to run through the dimmer doesn't draw more than 600 watts.

Take care!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

>>Does anyone know of a power strip that I can use with a dimmer/rheostat so that I can plug in about 10 devices and control all 10 with one switch?

Other than Home-made, I've used this;

Works great with racks!
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Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Boa Morph's since 2007

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

See if you think something like this will work for you. This is what I was talking about earlier. This is a a dimmer switch controlling one duplex receptacle.

Note the small cord used to connect the dimmer to the wall outlet - I only used this for a single, small UTH (under tank heater) so that cord provided enough amperage for that application. In your case, I suggest using a heavier duty cord.

Since it sounds like your electrical connections are going to be pretty well centralized you may be fine with making what's pictured above & then getting a big, multi-receptacle strip like Jeremy posted.

Let me revise the "Materials Needed" list that I posted earlier. I just need to add some Romex connectors and say more about the wire size.

Materials Needed:
1 - dimmer switch/rheostat (600-watt rating)
1 - duplex receptacle
1 - male electrical plug with ground probe (3-prong)
2 - single gang boxes (several different types to choose from)
1 - single gang dimmer switch/rheostat face plate (Not Pictured)
1 - single gang duplex receptacle face plate (Not Pictured)
3 - Romex connectors (match size to knockout size of your gang boxes (1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, etc...) (Not Pictured)
- Enough wire to reach from wall outlet to point of connections - plus, at least an extra foot or two.
Suggested wire size - 12/2 with ground, or, 14/2 with ground, or, you should even be able to use something more pliable, like a 16/3 stranded electrical cord.

The #12 & #14 solid wire is cumbersome, but as long as it's not going to be laying across the floor in a pathway or something you can usually bend it to get it how you want it to lay. I like using the heavier duty 12/2 with ground just in case I ever were to need to use it for heavy applications.

Romex connectors are metal connectors that the wire is passed through into the gang box and then you can screw down a clamp that they have to keep from stressing the wire connections. They hold the wire to the box, in other words.

Sample Wiring Diagram

Once you get your rack set up & running you may find that you need to control different levels. Maybe, maybe not. You can always build more dimmer recpetacles.

Follow the directions that come with the dimmer switch for proper connection of it. When wiring the male plug and duplex receptacle just remember that in basic A/C (alternating current) housewiring:
Black is the hot wire and hot connects to the gold colored terminals.
White is the neutral wire and connects to the silver colored terminals.

Hope this helps!

Best wishes!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

If your going to have the length from switch to outlet so short you might as well go with a double gang box. The make double gang covers with a switch cover aside an outlet. If you need more than 2 plugs they also make 3 and 4 gang boxes but you have to use a modular cover.

Also when I made my own extension cords, by the way you have to be a licensed electrician to size cords over 50', I used extension cords as they are flexible. I would just remove the female plug and add a J box.

Good directions just a few additional tips Mike.

My 2 cents
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Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Boa Morph's since 2007

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

"If your going to have the length from switch to outlet so short you might as well go with a double gang box."

Uh!!! The nerve of you to try to improve my jury rigging. Hahahaha!!!

Great idea, Chris! As you can tell from the pics of my contraption it was a make do that never got made over. (Notice the blue "old work" gang box and the metal gang box.)

But yeah, using a double gang box and installing the dimmer & a duplex receptacle would be much better. As well as softer, more pliable cord.

Ahh, the beauty of forums. Working just like it's supposed to. Besides, these forum regulars like Chris, Jeremy & Mark know that they usually have to come behind me and straighten something out. They gave up on me a long time ago. Hahaha!!!

Ya'll behave yourself. Have fun & be careful. When you sparks, that usually means that something's not right. My finger tips are charred.

Later!
Mike
(HH)
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Great idea, Chris!

That was Jeremy. I'm the last guy who should be giving out wiring advice on this forum...
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephala (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

>>"That was Jeremy."

I take no offense be being confused with you...

>>"I'm the last guy who should be giving out wiring advice on this forum..."

Yet you have practical experience on what should not be done...
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Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Specializing in Boa Morph's

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

And I will remind you both what else I said in my last reply:

"Besides, these forum regulars like Chris, Jeremy & Mark know that they usually have to come behind me and straighten something out."

Whaddya expect? I'm a hillbilly!

I'll go crawl back into my hide now......

HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

>>Does anyone know of a power strip that I can use with a dimmer/rheostat so that I can plug in about 10 devices and control all 10 with one switch?

I think your going to find that the heat pads will very in temp. quite a few degrees, especially with age. You would be better off going with the big power strip and make or buy a dimmer or thermstats for each pad.
Bob
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R.Bichlers Colubrids
http://www.webspawner.com/users/rbichler/index.html

>>I've decided to go with 4x5 Zoo Med heat pads rather than Flexwatt for my 10 level melamine rack. I use these pads because they are cheap, convenient and I can add them as my collection grows much more easily than Flexwatt. They work great, except that I need to dial down the temp by about 5-10 degrees.
>>

Consider Ultratherm heat mats instead of ZooMed for this application. Ultratherms are like Flexwatt with thicker lamination and already wired. The Bean Farm sells them. The 6x11 or 11x11 are great sizes.

>>Plus, all I have is an on-off t-stat, which, as I understand, is not recommended for heat tape. I'm guessing that the on-off action causes the filament to wear out the same way a light bulb filament wears faster the more it is flicked on and off. This, I imagine would lead to overheating and a fire hazard.
>>

If you put the sensor on the heat pad itself (as in use a spare heat pad as the "control" heater), an On/Off controller will work. It isn't a fire hazard. It will cycle the heater up and down by plus/minus 2 degrees from your setting. Eventually the relay will give out and may turn the heater on full.

So a great failsafe method is to use a dimmer as you suggested, and wire the whole thing through the thermostat. Set the thermostat to like 90 deg. It is your high-temp safety cutoff.

>>I don't need perfect, accurate temps, just an acceptable range that is safe for my snakes.
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>>
>>1.1.0 Hondurans Het Amel
>>1.1.0 Hondurans Anery, Het Hypo
>>0.1.0 Honduran Hypo
>>0.1.0 Honduran Hypo, Het Anery
>>0.2.0 Pueblans
>>1.0.0 Pueblan Hypo
>>1.0.0 Thayeri MSP
>>0.0.1 GBK Blair's Phase
>>1.0.0 California King
>>0.1.0 California King Blue-eyed Blond
>>0.0.1 Speckled King WC
>>0.0.1 Jungle Carpet
>>0.1.0 Ball, Normal
>>1.0.0 San Diego Gopher, Poss. Het Applegate
>>0.0.1 Sulcata
>>0.1.0 Girlfriend, Caucasius Mexicana, Fiancee Phase
>>
>>http://www.cafepress.com/shedz

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Mark

Thanks to everyone who replied.
I'm printing all this out and planning a course of action. I appreciate all the input.
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1.1.0 Hondurans Het Amel
1.1.0 Hondurans Anery, Het Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo
0.1.0 Honduran Hypo, Het Anery
0.2.0 Pueblans
1.0.0 Pueblan Hypo
1.0.0 Thayeri MSP
0.0.1 GBK Blair's Phase
1.0.0 California King
0.1.0 California King Blue-eyed Blond
0.0.1 Speckled King WC
0.0.1 Jungle Carpet
0.1.0 Ball, Normal
1.0.0 San Diego Gopher, Poss. Het Applegate
0.0.1 Sulcata
0.1.0 Girlfriend, Caucasius Mexicana, Fiancee Phase

http://www.cafepress.com/shedz

I've got pics of the setup Jeremy was describing similar to HH's setup but in a double gang and being in a double box DOES simplify things a lot....

Items needed:

extension or service cord
2 gang box
strain relief
dimmer switch
duplex outlet
combo outlet light switch cover.
3 spade or ring terminals

Note, I used a metal box/cover for durability as I drag one of these around from show to show.

I also wired this so one outlet is constant hot and the other is controlled by the dimmer.

Only thing lacking in hindsight is an additional box ground line.

Note: to seperate the two outlets, remove the bridge between the two screw terminals on the BRASS screw side only. Pic one shows the bridge intact on the SILVER side, pic two shows the bridge missing on the BRASS side.

Constructions:

1) Pop out an appropriate size slug in the side of the box. Needs to match your strain relief.

2) Install strain relief in side of box.

3) Route cord from outside the box through the strain relief, leave clamp loose so you have extra cord to work with.

4) Strip ends of cord wires and crimp on terminals. (not 100% necessary but does make it cleaner and less possibility of stray strands of wire.

5) Attach black wire to the brass colored screw at the end of the outlet you want to be always on.

6) Attach the white wire to the silver screw on the other side and the green wire to the ground terminal.

7) My dimmer was well tinned so I could use the wire insert holes on the back of dimmer, you might need to use additional terminals.

8) Whichever way works best, conect the dimmer wires, one to each side of the brass screws. Basically the dimmer now bridges the two outlets together.

9) Pull the excess cord from inside the box and tighten the strain relief clamp.

10) Assemble the outlet and dimmer to the box or lid depending on type of box used and attach the lid/cover to the box.

11) Test the outlets and mark them dimmed and on.

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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats