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I WAS WONDERING IF POSSIBLE WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO MAINTAIN HUMIDITY IN AN ENCLOSURE WITH A SCREEN TOP? ALL RESPONSES ARE APPRECIATED

Hi there!
How's your Burmese doing? Did it recover OK from the URI last winter?

There are several different ways to reduce humidity loss when using screen tops, depends on just how far you want to go. Not only does humidity escape through screen tops but we lose heat through them, too. Therefore, the further you go (more complex) the better off you'll be all the way around.

A simple quick fix is to use a plastic garbage bag, plastic sheeting or aluminum foil. Aluminum foil is less of a potential fire hazard than plastic but I've used both.

Here's a diagram of the way I suggest covering a screen top.

The white areas is where you cut out for the overhead heat source and where to stop the covering on the opposite end. In general, regardless of what size tank is being used, I like leaving 3/4 - 1 inch of the cool end exposed. This is usually enough to get a good air flow without losing too much heat/humidity, thereby creating a good temperature gradient.

In cutting out the overhead heating area I usually cut it so there's about a 1 inch extra space all the way around the heat source. Example: If using an 8-inch dome I cut a 10-inch circle for the dome to sit in. This leaves room for air to be drawn in through but still limits heat/humidity loss in that area.

Another way to reduce heat/humidity loss is by lining the inside of the screen with 1/2-inch blue foam insulation board that's used in housing construction. You can follow the same pattern in the above diagram and then get some #8 x 1-inch screws, washers and nuts to secure it to the inside of the screen lid. This also reduces nose-rub. This would be my best suggestion. It works great at retaining both heat & humidity. Plus, you don't have to worry about removing it every time you open the cage & then put it back when you're done.

For added heat retention you can use the blue foam insulation board to line the back, bottom side of the tank & the two sides. The stuff costs aprox. $13 for a 4ft x 8ft sheet at 1/2-inch thick and can be found at most home improvement stores.

There is also some stuff called "Reflectix". It's kinda like thin, crimpled aluminum foil that comes in rolls. It has excellent heat reflecting properties. Since it's nonporous it's good for retaining humidity, too. It's a bit pricey, though. A 2ft wide x 25ft long roll is $30.

The best thing is to get a good pre-built enclosure or build your own as soon as possible. Preferrably one that's front opening (either sliding glass doors, drop-down doors or lift-up doors). Why? because sooner or later that Burm's gonna be big enough to push any top off, even with concrete blocks sitting on top of it. And I can tell you from experience, once you get to having to weight down a top or secure it with tie-downs, it becomes a chore just to get to your snake, much less to clean it's cage, feed it, handle it, or whatever. It will deter you from doing what you want/need to do.

I've got instructions online on how to build tops for tanks out of wood & plexiglass. If you're interested, let me know.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

Take care!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

great tip Mike
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