Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hey there!
I was wondering what the typical off-gas time is for the two-part liquid fiberglass commonly sold at the DIY stores. The can says it's fully cured in 2hrs and I was just curious if it had long off-gas times or not.

Thanks!

Have a good one!
HH
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Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Mike,

Depending on the thickness of the coating and the amount of them the off gas time or at least the time when fumes are no longer present can vary widely.

I would say 24-48 hrs for a light coat a week plus for the standard thicker coat.

I don't have practical application in a reptile enclosure however I have built fiberglass sub-woofer boxes and that is my best guess. It was a long time ago. They were very thick coats!!!

HTH

Cheers
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Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Specializing in Boa Morph's

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

I think it's longer than the listed 24 hours. I have not done fiberglass work in many years but I recall it smelling long after it apparently had reached full hardness. And it was the inexpensive catalyzed stuff sold at hardware and auto supply stores.

Just to clarify, you mean the polyester resin that you add a few drops of catalyst to, correct? Most of the time I hear the phrase "two part" it applies to resins where the mix ratio is 1:1 or 2:1. Most of these offgas pretty quick, if they have any VOC's at all.
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Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephalum (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.1 Lampropeltis triangulum multistriata

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

"...you mean the polyester resin that you add a few drops of catalyst to, correct?

Yah, Chris, that be the one. 14 drops hardener to 1oz resin. Brought to us by the same makers of school glue. Moooooo. (I think I've inhaled some fiberglass fumes.)

Jeremy, I put a pretty thick coat on that booger.

I'm coating a 2 x 4 center brace for a savannah monitor cage. The board will run across the width of the cage, in the center of its length, to keep the sides from bowing out (hopefully). It will be buried in the dirt substrate.

I thought about just coating it with FRP but didn't want to take the chance of it getting peeled of by the monitors digging. I might cut some pieces to size, apply another thin coat of fiberglass and slap the FRP on while it's wet. Nah, probably not. The board will be easily accessible for replacement when the time comes.

I can afford to wait two weeks or so if it ends up taking that long to off-gas. I'll keep you fellas posted.

Later Tater!
Mike
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Sorry for being rude, guys. Thanks, as always!

Take care!
Mike
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

I'll be curious to hear as I'm considering some fiberglass work this winter as well. I swore the last time I used it I'd never do it again but now I'm reconsidering.

Are you actually applying fiberglass mat/cloth or do you mean you're just applying the polyester?
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephalum (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.1 Lampropeltis triangulum multistriata

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

"Are you actually applying fiberglass mat/cloth or do you mean you're just applying the polyester?"

Just the resin to a typical, untreated, pine 2 x 4. I didn't figure I'd need to use the cloth for this part.

I'm seriously thinking about going ahead and using the cloth/resin for the joints of the FRP that lines the bottom section of the cage. I've got a good bead of waterproof (yeah, we've heard that before) construction adhesive on the joints now. I've already roughed the surface of the FRP a tad to get a good bond with the fiberglass.

The next one I do I'll most likely give the two-part floor epoxies a try instead of using FRP. If I could see a similar application that it's been used in I'd have a better idea of whether it would work for me. Or, if I could work it. One or the other.

Later!
Mike
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Just the resin to a typical, untreated, pine 2 x 4. I didn't figure I'd need to use the cloth for this part.

Probably not. I recently read a thread on a fish forum about a guy who built a 8000 gallon aquarium. Yes, that's EIGHT THOUSAND gallons. It was built like a typical wall, albeit from 2x8's on 12" centers, and was sheathed with 3/4" plywood. He sealed the plywood with polyester resin and only used cloth on the seams where the plywood sections butted up against each other.

So I think you loan 2x4 will be fine. He did use a much higher quality resin but I still think you'll be fine.
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephalum (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.1 Lampropeltis triangulum multistriata

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback

Ha! That would be something to see. Maybe I'll be alright then. I didn't consider this resin that I got to be of much quality but figured it would do what I need it to.

Thanks for the positive outlook!

Catch ya later!
Mike
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Did you ever consider clothing the seams than placing the FRP and than sealing the seams.

One would thing with the cloth on the seam behind the FRP and leaving an 1/4" gap or so you could fill that with the resin (probably would need to orient the cage for each fill).

Since the resin will penetrate the cloth and the back of the FRP is rough. You could almost make a bead of resin like you would caulk and seal the seam forever.

Thinking out load here.

HTH
-----
Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Specializing in Boa Morph's

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

"Did you ever consider clothing the seams than placing the FRP and than sealing the seams."

That would require foresight. I'm hindsighted, not foresighted. But yeah, that sounds like it might form a better joint.

I've got a good bead of construction adhesive on the joints and had planned on leaving it at that but the cage sat in limbo long enough for me to start my dang perfectionistic stinkin' thinkin'.

Question/Problem:
I didn't use enough hardener in my fiberglass resin mix last night and some areas are still a bit tacky. Ya reckon I can I just brush a light coat of hardener over those areas to get it to set?

What happened was the hardener tube didn't have a preformed hole in it and the instructions said to "add drops" but said nothing about opening the tube, the size hole cutting the top off, etc... I didn't know if I was supposed to cut the top off the tube or poke a hole in it. I poked a hole in it with my pocket knife. Guess what, the "drops" were too small.

It's no big deal. Most of what wasn't cured this morning is already cured this afternoon. I can always cut another 2 x 4 if needed.

Livin' & learnin'!
HH
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

So long as you added hardener it will harden just might take awhile. The amount changes the hardening time from forever without to instant with the entire bottle...3 drops are an appropriate middle ground. We used to add like 6 for quick pours and 2 for longer spreads...

I don't know how the resin will react with the catalyst brushed on...

You supposed to mix it evenly...
-----
Jeremy Payne
JB Reptile
Specializing in Boa Morph's

1.0 Snow "Khal"
0.2 Triple Het Moonglow "Khal"
0.1 Orange Tail Hypo Het Leopard
1.1 Double Het "Sharp" Snow
1.0 Ghost
0.1 Possible Super Hypo
0.1 DH Ghost
1.1 "Khal" Albino
1.0 Hypomelenistic
1.3 Pastel Hypo
0.1 Suriname/Columbian cross
0.1 Anerthrystic

"I don't know how the resin will react with the catalyst brushed on...

You supposed to mix it evenly..."

Yeah, I was wondering if the hardener would be able to penetrate deep enough into the uncured resin to make a difference. It's no big deal. I haven't even checked it since yesterday about noon. It may have all cured by now. If not, I've got plenty of 2 x 4s to cut a replacement.

I'll let ya'll know how the joints turn out later today or tonight.

Thanks!
Mike
-----
Due to political correctness run amuck,
this ol' hillbilly is now referred to as an:
Appalachian American

www.natures-signature.com

Before you replace the 2x4 I would brush more resin over the soft area. Mix the resin on the 'hot' side, meaning with more catalyst.
-----
Currently keeping:

6.10 Gonyosoma oxycephalum (Javan, mixed colors)

1.1 Philodryas baroni

1.1 Lampropeltis triangulum multistriata

1.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback