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Hey guys

Scarloc Sep 23, 2008 08:47 AM

Now I must admit this is my first snake, I have had a few desert reptiles but I saw this guy at a reptile show and fell in love.

Here is the care sheet I got feel free to list any changes

Species: Western Hognose Snake Scientific Name: Heterodon nasicus

Longevity: 15-20 years

Size: 16-25 inches

Native to: Southern Alberta and northwest Manitoba, south to southeast Arizona, Texas, and into northern Mexico. Also Iowa, Minnesota, Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas.

Diet: Hognose Snakes are carnivores and should be fed appropriate sized rodents (frozen thawed preferred). Juveniles (hatchlings to 6 months) should be fed once every 5 days, with adults being fed once a week.

Housing Requirements: Except in the case of an exceptionally large Hognose Snake, a 10 gallon aquarium is sufficient for this species. Mulch, aspen shavings or coco fiber make an excellent substrate.
NOTE: Snakes are excellent escape artists, so if there is a way to escape from the enclosure, they will find it. Make sure you use a locking style lid, or double locking system.
A hide box should be provided to give the animal the privacy that snakes require. The cage can be decorated with driftwood or climbing limbs as well as flat rocks and bark to provide hiding places. All of these will help the snake during its shed.
Water should be available at all times in a small but heavy bowl. Hognose snakes that are healthy and stress free do not generally soak in their water bowls. If the snake is soaking, the health of the snake and the husbandry procedures should be examined.

Lighting & Heating Requirements: Hognose Snakes require heat for proper digestion, and can be maintained at an average room temperature of 68 - 75 degrees F (18-21 C). There must also be a small area (1/4 - 1/3 of the total floor area of the cage) offering temperatures of 85 - 90 degrees F (26- 29 C). This can be provided by using either a heat pad, or heat lamp. Make sure that the animal can escape the heat to a cooler spot at the opposite end of the aquarium. Snakes do not require UV lighting.

A couple of questions, first is basking and cool end surface tempratues or ambiant ones? Also the person at the show said he had not been fed for about 4 days so on the 7th day (yesterday) I fed him the (reccommended) small (F/T) hopper (he is between 2-3 years old)He ate it no problem but sence then he went into his cool hide and has not been wondering around. I assume they have the same 1-2 week adjustment period as regular reptiles so I have not been handeling him I just want an accurate care sheet and to make sure the hopper is not going to rot inside him.

Replies (2)

Garter_Gabby Sep 24, 2008 07:04 AM

>>Now I must admit this is my first snake, I have had a few desert reptiles but I saw this guy at a reptile show and fell in love.
>>

>>A couple of questions, first is basking and cool end surface tempratues or ambiant ones? Also the person at the show said he had not been fed for about 4 days so on the 7th day (yesterday) I fed him the (reccommended) small (F/T) hopper (he is between 2-3 years old)He ate it no problem but sence then he went into his cool hide and has not been wondering around. I assume they have the same 1-2 week adjustment period as regular reptiles so I have not been handeling him I just want an accurate care sheet and to make sure the hopper is not going to rot inside him.

Well, welcome to the addiction of Hoggies!

I'm guess ambiant for the temp, based on where your {my) thermometer is. If you have a probe-type thermometer, I'd think that would surface temp. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will set us straight!

Hopper won't rot if you keep your temps up. If you lower your temps and force your guy into brumation, then it might. If you're planning on brumating, wait until your snake poos one or two times.

I've been told by my breeder the Hoggies are very good about regulating their temp. My Hoggy disappears for a few days after eating and it's closer to his cool end than warm. He does seem to bask on the hot spot when he's out and about far more than my garters, which just seem to need warm temps to digest vs. a dedicated hot spot.

You're correct on the adjusting. All animals/pets have to adjust, not just snakes! I think yout care sheet's pretty good. I didn't read anything that sounded out of line.

Give the guy a week or two before feeding again. And he may not eat then because it is getting late in the year and even if you don't brumate the snake will naturally slow down for the winter and eat less.

What kind of Hoggy do you have?
-----
mk
In Hog Heaven

Scarloc Sep 25, 2008 05:13 PM

He is a Western hognose, no morphs just plain old brown and black. I am glad to hear about the dissapearing for a day or 2 after eating as that is exactly what he did, this morning he was out and about exploring and left me a little present. Looks like i need to dim the heat pad down a bit more it is currently sitting at 100. Does your guy ever stay in his warm hide? My guy just did a quicky 10 minute explore and then moved on.

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