Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ok, so my beardie is sick, and I don't know whats wrong, He's acting fine but the muscles in his back legs seem to be spazzing, and they seem to be really weak, and he seems to be trying really hard to poop but can't, =/ I don't know what to do and I have no idea how it could have happened. Please help!

What kind of substrate do u have him on? How often are you giving a calcium supplement? What kind of food are you feeding? These are all helpful in figuring out the problem.

i'm not giving him any kind of substrate..

the only thing that i can think of is he ate alot of phoenix worms.
people say its a really good calcium intake.

he also ate a big cricket?

maybe a little to big.. but other than that i don't have any other kind of info i can give cause all that i know myself..

Do you mean that you don't keep it on substrate but on tile or paper? because the symptoms do sound like a possible impaction!

ya i keep him on lizard rug stuff..

Soak him in warm (not too warm) water and that helps them poop and possibly pass whatever is stuck.

THANKS. i'm putting him on this detailed diet that was proven to do wonders. so lets hope my boy pulls through this quickly...i really don't know what i'd do without him.

How big is he? Is he an adult or baby? Age? Are you supplementing with calcium and vitamins? If so what kind? Are they Phosphorus free? Spasms and real leg paralysis are often caused by long term calcium deficiency.

What are the temps in your enclosure? Cool side ambient?, Hot side ambient? Basking spot temp.? What is the enclosure size.

Now THESE are the details that would help someone internet diagnose the problem.

As I read above, the original poster doesn't KNOW any of these details, so the fundamental root of the problem is the keeper him/herself.

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.

Reptiles are not puppies or kittens. They require specific husbandry conditions and things like proper temps are CRUCIAL to the survival of your reptile. If you continue to ignore fundamental needs, you will have a dead lizard on your hands in short order.

Please pick up a book, learn some basic husbandry details and give this animal a chance to make it.

You snooze, the Bearded loses. Best of luck.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Robyn,

Honestly I have to say this. I'm sure I'm going to get a lot of flak over this.

People post on forums because they want or need help, not criticism. I take in rescues, unwanteds, and do rehab for a local animal hospital. In just about all cases the owner was given bad advice from a pet store or other that lead to their dragons sick condition. As "experts" (if we like to think of our selves that way) it is our job to get all the details possible and give our best advise. Advise without criticism about what they could have or should have done. If they had the knowledge then they would'nt have posted.

Personally, I applaud anyone who puts themselves out there because they just don't know and really want to help their animal. They should be applauded not criticised.

What is the criticism? After many other replies that don't address fundamental husbandry issues, you made a post asking for details. Good post, you need DETAILS. How else can you reasonably help?

You can applaud folks, but for what? Keeping reptiles without doing any kind of research into what it takes to keep them healthy? Applaud? How about suggesting the following:

"Please pick up a good book, learn some basic husbandry details and give this animal a chance to make it."

That is what I said in my post. No, I don't pat folks on the back for being ignorant (lacking knowledge) and send them back to their dying reptile with a big fat smile. Plenty of other folks do that. That boosts egos, and kills reptiles.

Aren't you tired of seeing folks post time and time again about how they are killing their animals with ignorance? This bearded isn't dead yet, but if this is the continued path, it will be soon.

Are you worried about hurting a keeper's feelings? I am trying to stress that without husbandry DETAILS, no one can really help. If you don't know enough to GIVE those details, or have no idea of what husbandry is, then you (as the keeper) are the problem.

No more disposable animals, isn't that a worthwhile goal? The Bearded is not a bunch of bananas that you leave on the counter until they turn black and rot, and then throw them away.

I don't see my post as critical at all, but rather a plea to LEARN some basic husbandry and PROVIDE some DETAILS. Without it, the Bearded dies.

This keeper can either learn the husbandry, try and save a lizard already in dire straits, or they can let the Bearded rot and die, then throw it away. I would rather see them learn husbandry, it is the fundamental responsibility taken on when acquiring a reptile.

There is enough coddling in the forums already, that part is covered, there needs to be more stress on education, husbandry, and NO DISPOSABLE ANIMALS : )

(Heat is the energy that drives the Bearded's engine. This health issue is all about TEMPERATURES. I don't think Emmaleigh knows what the temp is at all. THAT is the problem. With years of reading the forums, the temp is probably way too low in the basking spot. 85F, 90F for a hot spot is not going to cut it. Simple problem, extremely common problem, but you have to take the temperature accurately before you can address it, how about some temp details Emmaleigh?)

Best of luck, there is still time to get a turnaround.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

I don't disagree with you on this issue. I just disagree with your delivery. We have no idea of the circumstances of the poster. I'll tell you a story.

I never kept or was interested in reptiles. On Mothers Day years ago a female friend showed up at my door with a 4" lizard in a 20L. He boyfriend was in the Marines and was sent to the middle east. He gave the baby to his girlfriend who brought it to me and asked me to care for it for 5 days. I told her this was a big favor but agreed. She gave me a 20L, UVB light, basking light, basking log, and a jar of pellets. She didn't even tell me what kind of lizard it was but the jar said bearded dragon food. She told me feed it the pellets and some romaine lettuce. In the morning I counted the pellets when I put them in the bowl. It never ate any. It would eat 2 little pieces of lettuce that I would hand feed, that's it. Days past and I knew if it didn't eat more it would die. Well, I researched BD's on the internet and found out they eat crickets. That tiny baby lived, she is 22" and 780 grams now. She's here with her children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren. Would I have deserved criticism because I had not bought a book prior to having a BD dropped off at my house?

The problem is not the pet owners. It's the breeders and pet stores. At least the Dachiu's took a step in right direction and offer a discount on their dragons if you show proof you own one of the books they recommend? Are you doing that? I don't know of any other breeders, or pet stores that offer an incentive for customers to do as you say and buy a book first.

Your criticism should be directed to the seller for not training the buyer, not the buyer that was told little, incorrect or no information at the time of purchase.

Yes, I know there are a lot of misinformation about reptile husbandry. Not just from the pet-stores, but on the internet, also. That's why it is good if you can post on a forum and ask questions from the experts. I don't usually scold at people when it comes to helping them on the husbandry issues no matter how silly it is because I know, by doing that, it will just force them to think what they want to think instead of listening to you. Honestly, I think most people that post on forum really want to help their reptiles, so I just point them to the right direction, or offer advice based on my knowledge and experience. Everybody was a beginner one time. I can personally tell you how much information on the internet that I thought was right when I first started that I now think is horrible. At first I also tried to do what the pet-store do, but I realized after talking to a lot of people, how terrible most pet-stores are. But if people were scolding at me, I would have never stick around long. It doesn't mean I don't believe them, but it just not a very good experience. It makes me think I'm a horrible owner and just want to disappear. In worst case, some people just look somewhere else and believe whatever they want to believe and the poor animals suffer.

We don't sell Beardeds, but that is an interesting policy to encourage folks to be better prepared to care for their animals, I am going to look into that for the species that we do work with.

Posting on the forums really limits the way that emotions or intent are conveyed. I try to use smiles at times, and I use caps to emphasize a POINT, not to yell : )

I have fun posting regardless, I am never posting to be mean, in fact most of the time I am trying to hammer out a post, provide useful or applicable info, then get back to an incredibly busy day in the reptile world.

I am passionate about reptile husbandry, about the health and long term well being of the animals, especially lizard species, where so much husbandry is caught in a retro time warp, and where modern husbandry has not been widely understood.

I don't know that there is any "friendly" way to communicate to folks about how much they DON'T know, as that issue comes up again and again.

When someone posts about their dying lizard, they like to read the posts that say "awww, that's awful, don't feel bad" but they are challenged and defensive to a post that says "how are you keeping it, what are your husbandry details, you are probably making one of three incredibly common mistakes".

The goal is really to get the lizard under some solid husbandry that will give it at least a chance of survival, but how to communicate that effectively, and not hurt tender feelings? I don't know...

The Ball forum, and certainly the Monitor forum, are much more rough and tumble worlds compared to the Bearded forum, or the Leopard Gecko forum. And yet it STILL isn't personal, it isn't about me, or you (whoever you is : ), it is about the reptile.

I will give "emotional conveyence on a reptile forum" more thought, perhaps there is indeed a solution to communicating modern husbandry in these FAQ type situations (it is really the same few issues again and again, has been for years).

In the meantime, we still don't have any details that would actually move us forward in helping this particular Bearded : (
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Well put Pro Exotics. I don't even know why I was glaring at all the caps when that wasn't the problem at all. Live and learn!

Ok so, Ya thank you for standing up for me BDlvr, and trying to help also everyone else thank you as well . I came to this forum because one of my expert friends on reptiles couldn't see my dragon that day all i could do was give a few descriptions, and try to see if she had any idea, since HERE in my town there are no good reptile doctors and me being only seventeen I only have what little money i make at the pet store, a vet visit would have been hard, but trust me, i would have taken my whole savings to fix it if it would have been needed. so don't accuse me as being a ignorant to my dragon and it's husbandry needs. because i'm not. I take good care of him. and my other two as well. and I fixed the problem without the help of the people saying I wasn't doing my job. when I'm sure your bearded dragon or any animal has gotten sick some time or another and you weren't sure with what. Using the term" It's not a puppy" as if their easy and everyone knows how to take care of them Isn't really true because in the pet store i'm constantly asked how they should take care of their dog, because even a dog or cat is foreign to some people and they need help, but i don't scold them for not knowing, no matter how common they are, their still just as important and they just want whats best for their animal, I think of it as the same as when a child is sick, but the parent doesn't know what the child is sick with, you take the child to an expert or doctor, does that mean the parents shouldn't have kids just because they don't know every disease in the book that their child could possibly catch? you learn the basic needs, and go from there.. before i even got my first dragon I read up on them like crazy. I know what i'm doing, it just was something I wasn't sure of and I didn't want to chance making a mistake, because he's that important to me, I had an idea of what it was, but i wanted back up or reinsurance, a second opinion. but all i got from you was how i wasn't doing my job with my beardie and that I basically should have known better before i got him. You have to learn sometime, your not going to know everything about the bad stuff that can happen to them before you get them. I work at a pet store, in the pet care department, I've had a beardie die in my hands because of the ignorant owner, when I didn't want to sell him in the first place. I know what a irresponsible owner looks like, and I'm not one of them. I was directed here for help, and I came back to find Robyn saying i really had no idea what i was doing so thanx, but you should approach people differently, don't approach them as IGNORANT but as concerned pet parents trying to find the best solution, cause i'm sure there are many like me, who had an idea what was going on but wanted a second opinion, I have had so many different types of animals I have taken care of, and I'm good at it, I just had one concern, and i wanted some help. so just try approaching people differently. And BTW, for everyone who was worried My beardie is fine, he had a minor impaction from a cricket in the cricket cage that was a little too big for him to digest and Mozart, being the anxious boy he is, he jumped after it before i could get out of his habitat .. but he's perfectly fine now. and I did my job as the owner, I was just looking for some back up to see if what i thought was right. I just wanted him to have the best. I was told you guys were the best, so thats why i came. but thanx anyways.. for all of you who tried to help. he's great now.

Look I dont disagree with Robyn, people should research a pet, reptile or not, but I do agree with the delivery. Plus Robyn not to get down on you but, you say all the questions are the same, but then again your answers seem to be identical; TEMPS. I think everyone has a good idea of the ambiant temps that work, as well as the hot spots, and cool spots. I dont agree with the heat level in your basking area but to each his own if it works for you. I have over 40 pairs of breeders, including rankins, and barbatas, and have never kept my reptiles in that high a heat. I did give you the benefit though and tested it on my males. The majority stayed away from the basking area all day. I have kept beardies for over 10 years. My family lives in Australia in the outback and works on bearded dragon, as well as other herp research in conjuction with the Australian zoos, and governments. There is so much more that is involved than temps. I know and agree that they are a major part of husbandry but there are factors other than temps that cause problems, and jumpin on somebody because they dont know the exact temp isnt diagnosing. Make the suggestion to check the temps all ranges in the cage. I have had dragons that died because my old cricket supplier had a bad batch of crickets and the dragons got lethargic, had respiratory problems, and werent interested in eating. Just suggest dont act like you know more than anybody else. We are all here to learn. For instance I am posting some information from Australia that was learned about beardies over the past couple years. My cousin also found out that beardies actually posses a type of venom. The delivery system is useless, and the toxins in the venom has yet to be studied, but they along with about a thousand other animals have been listed in australia as having venom. They are testing to see if it is evolving out of them, or into the beardies so who knows everything we may have thought we knew about them may change and in a million years if the venom is evolving in the dragons we may have potentially fatal beardies in the wild. I will post the findings on here when my cousin emails the papers after they are done. We are all here to help, share, and learn. I am still learning and recently started to work with the san diego zoo in the genetics department of CRES!!! I am going to test beardies in captivity versus the WILD to see how far we have actually bred them down, and try to get Australia to loosen their ban on exports of non critical animals.
Sorry that was so long.... I am off my soap box now.
Ohh PS
Robyn saw your article in Reptile Magazine very cool my friend...
I am sure you are great with reptiles but we have to remember there are those who arent, and those who know more than us.

Thanks for the comments on the article, I appreciate that.

Temps are super important, so is hydration. Both are commonly misunderstood in captive husbandry. Husbandry is a big puzzle, with many important pieces, and temps and hyrdration are HUGE pieces.

If you offer a basking spot of 120-130F, your animals won't bask nearly as much as with a basking spot of 100F or 105F, true.

But what does that mean? That they "like" 105F better?

Nope. It takes much longer to accomplish heat goals with a low temp like 105F. With a basking temp of 130F, a lizard can accomplish heat goals in a very short time. They achieve metabolism needs quickly, efficiently, and SAFELY.

You don't see them "basking as much" or as long because they are accomplishing their goals in a short amount of time.

Basking in the wild exposes lizards to predation. They are evolved to use basking sites to quickly heat up as needed, then retreat to safety and cover. A lizard that has to bask for hours at a low temp is not getting the "engine" up to speed, and is practically begging for MORE heat, more useful heat.

If you live in natural Bearded habitat, Collared Lizard habitat, monitor lizard habitat, Uro habitat, heck, fence lizard habitat, use a Temp Gun and get some ACTUAL temps from natural basking sites and areas. It is really fascinating.

It gets MUCH hotter than 130F (surface temp) on natural basking sites, in the heat of the day. Basking surfaces can reach 200F (again, surface temps). But in the heat of the day, you don't see lizards out and basking at those extreme temps. 200F is an extreme temp. 130F is a useful everyday temp that I can pull off outside stone surfaces in Denver when it is 85F out.

Earlier in the day, or later in the day, as the temps drop, the lizards will bask. I have never been to Australia, but I have talked at length with field herpers that HAVE taken Australian field temps on sites that lizards are currently basking on, pulling temps from 120F to 150F . We see our captive species using a basking temp gradient ranging from 120-150F. All the time. But not for hours at a time : )

I have temped Collared lizards in the wild, on an 80F day, basking at 138F. These are temps that they use naturally, and those temps are beneficial in a captive setup.

You obviously don't want an entire cage to be 130F. You want to offer CHOICES. A temp gradient of 80-130F offers lots of choices. I can set up a 10 gallon tank with that temp gradient, using a 45 watt bulb. Using an elevated basking spot, it isn't too hard at all. It is easier in a larger tank, with more space, but it is not impossible.

I am posting from home, but I will post a basking setup pic tomorrow that helps to visualize a elevated basking spot with many temp choices.

I have spent well over an hour writing these two posts, I don't do it to poke fun at anyone, or to hurt folks feelings, I am just passionate about reptile husbandry and getting more info out there, and having discussion. This kind of discussion can be a little challenging, but that doesn't make it bad, or negative, or scary.

I REALLY want to see EmmaLeigh's Bearded do well, thrive, and have a long life. I wouldn't put in the time to post if I didn't. We still don't have a lick of husbandry info on that animal, but hopefully it is coming soon!
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Sorry but I don't agree with your high basking temp. either. Under unnatural light beardies need to bask longer and hide less. Outside the UVB is dramatically stronger than any bulb out there. I do agree that the basking spots exist in the wild as you stated, (I have personally tested) and also agree that when the ambient outside gets into the high 80's and 90's that dragons hide from these high basking temps. But outside they can get adequate UVB exposure in just a few hours. Inside they need to bask much more.

We have raised and bred many species of lizards, including Beardeds, using no full spectrum bulbs at all, but that is a different thread : )
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

ignorant- "lacking knowledge"

No one called you a "dummy", or a "loser". Why take it as such? Ignorant means lacking knowledge. I am ignorant in astro physics. SUPER ignorant. So what? My feelings aren't hurt. Working at a pet store doesn't automatically make someone a master of reptile husbandry.

All those words that you have typed, and you STILL don't provide any lizard husbandry details, just stuff like "I know what I am doing" and "I am good at it". Good at what? What is it you are doing?

WHY WHY WHY is it about YOU? I am trying to pull husbandry info out of you, IMPORTANT husbandry info, but you just want to type words, lots of words, about YOU. Write about the Bearded instead. It isn't about you, it is about the lizard.

It isn't personal, not at all, I don't know you. It doesn't matter if you are 17, or 70, I am just trying to get husbandry details. I don't care about your favorite tv show, or band (mine is Van Halen : ) because that is irrelevant.

Crickets don't cause impaction. Low temps and low hydration cause digestion issues that can cause impaction. If your Bearded gets backed up and impacted on an insect, you have OTHER issues.

As they say, lizards could eat and digest doorknobs if the husbandry is correct. If a big cricket causes impaction once, you are risking the life of your lizard with poor husbandry.

Really, what are your setup details? Actual details? Don't tell me what I "want to hear", but really, how do you have the animal setup, what are the temps, how do you take the temps. Let's look at husbandry issues, let's discuss YOUR Bearded, that is why you posted, right? Let's talk about it!
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Well I agree with you on the temps being very important. I dont agree with it being the only factor. Like I mentioned, my dragons ate bad crickets and got a bug it wasnt impaction (but looked like it!!!) I have taken care of dragons like I said over 10 years and the first thing I thought was impaction, and yes I did check to see if my temps were good, and I log the hours on my UVB lights due to the amount of UVB that the light loses over time, but they were still fairly new so no vitamin issues. I was stumped but I took it to my professor and herp genetics professor and scientist at CRES who did the tests and found the bug. He tested my the other dragons and found the same thing. The only constant in the equation was they were the same size dragons, and eating the same size crickets from the same container.
I do feel ignorant isnt a bad term as well, but that is my opinion, go out on the street and just call the first person you see ignorant though and see what happens>>>> People react differently.
With the basking spots, being so hot. I understand where you are coming from with the heating up quickly, but.....in the outback beardies stay on logs and fence posts and rock outcrops all afternoon, until it gets too hot. Now I dont know collard lizards but I know beardies. They stay in the mid warm areas, bask for long periods in the wild on low lying branches and fences, and when and if the spot is too hot they either run down a bit, or get out completely. I kept my dragons like I said with that heat gradient and found that the ones who even went in the heat were gaping and moving out too much. Dragons take longer to cool down. That is the cool thing studies show that they heat quick and cool slow. Therefore they dont need super heat to heat up, and stay heated up. They can get it at a lower temp, and hold that heat longer than we thought. The extra high heat and gaping showed they were trying to cool down but their bodies dont do that as fast so they start to overheat and YES they can over heat I saw a poor dragon die in the car at a pet store the owner was an ass (pardon) and left the dragon in without the windows down. It heated up and the dragon was past the point of return due to the body not being able to cool quickly (evolution at work.. The dragon was gaping, and imobile for a while then died even after attemps by myself and another herper, and vet to cool him down, and hydrate him with a syringe (vets, specially herp vets are always ready, medicine, snake hooks, bags, food, and other goodies I wish I was that prepared)
Heat can be the best thing for a lizard but again
your words ignorance and heat can kill one as quick

Ok first off, I wasn't taking it as such, You seemed to discuss how much i didn't know moreso than my beardie but thats beside the point. but if you must know his temps are about 110. with an elevated basking rock that reaches about 115. I use repti carpet, because sand isn't the safest way to go, especially not this young. I don't want to see my babies impacted with sand though when their older I will most likely give them a sand box just so I can somewhat control their feeding and keep them away from the sand when eating. he's in a thirty gallon tank, with his sister.
he gets calcium mostly through his pheonix worms. he gets his romaine lettuce and some finely diced carrots and peas, along with some fruit time to time.
he gets misted every day and I give him a warm bath two to three times a week.
and if anyone has a good idea of a good supplement then tell me, I love more information, I wan't to give him the best. i just don't like being told i'm not doing good enough, I'm doing my best and he's pooping perfectly normal now.

and yes actually crickets can cause impaction when he's only a few months old, if crickets couldn't then why not just feed him adult crickets from the beginning? because they can't digest the hard shells properly. I've read much on it asked around and asked a vet, they all said it's not safe and cause impaction thats why you just feed them the ones that can fit between the space of his eyes

I never said i was an Expert because i work in a pets store, just that I have learned alot, and almost everyone i work with in that department has a beardie or has and sometime. so I have good help surrounding me,

I just wanted a second opinion. so thanx everyone.

"About 110"? What are you using to measure those temps? Temps are, as we have discussed - vitally important. We should never be using terms such as "about" when refering to temps. If you are not yet using a digital thermometer you should get one from either a petstore or walmart...get the variety with a probe and attach the probe to the basking spot. Even better yet, do that and get a temp gun (i ordered mine from proexotics)...this lets you check temps all over the cage. The set up i use is to have a digital thermometer with a probe at the highest point of the basking spot - and then use my temp gun to spot check temps all over the tank.

Romaine lettuce is not a horrible veggie, of all the lettuces its the best..but its not a good staple veggie. Lettuce is very nutritionally devoid. Some better staple veggies are: Dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, endive, escarole and squash.

If you are not supplementing with calcium, you really should be. Even if you are feeding pheonix worms. Get a pure calcium supplement and use it several times a week. A multi-vitamin should be used as well. A lack of calcium could have been a factor in the cricket impaction as well. Calcium plays a vital role in muscle contraction and without enough, muscles dont function properly...including the muscles of the gut...leading to impaction. As Robyn stated, there are usually multiple factors involved if a single cricket causes an impaction. Low calcium could definately be that factor.

Also, if you have the beardie housed with his sister you should really seperate them. There are SO many reasons behind this....a big one being that they will start breeding soon - and definately much sooner than they should. Its not healthy for females to breed at a young age...it can be very fdangerous. Also, if they are related they defiantely should not be bred. Beardies in this country have a small enough gene pool as it is! Even if they werent related...young dragons are much better off housed separetely, this allows you to keep a closer eye on them, monitor their feeding, defecating, supplementing, etc etc. It also greatly decreases their stress.

Are you using a UVB with your dragon?

Providing all the info you did was very helpful - now you have some more tips to improve your husbandry.

Ok first off, I wasn't taking it as such, You seemed to discuss how much i didn't know moreso than my beardie but thats beside the point. but if you must know his temps are about 110. with an elevated basking rock that reaches about 115. I use repti carpet, because sand isn't the safest way to go, especially not this young. I don't want to see my babies impacted with sand though when their older I will most likely give them a sand box just so I can somewhat control their feeding and keep them away from the sand when eating. he's in a thirty gallon tank, with his sister.
he gets calcium mostly through his pheonix worms. he gets his romaine lettuce and some finely diced carrots and peas, along with some fruit time to time.
he gets misted every day and I give him a warm bath two to three times a week.
and if anyone has a good idea of a good supplement then tell me, I love more information, I wan't to give him the best. i just don't like being told i'm not doing good enough, I'm doing my best and he's pooping perfectly normal now.
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

Thanx, this helps alot, I only say about, because the temp seems to vary, It may be the bulbs I'm using, I have two for night time because the tank is so big and one of them likes to run and hide in the cooler corners, and I get worried that even though the tank is warm, she may actually get get cold since winter is coming. I say girl, because she' or he' haha I'll just call this one matey( her name) seems to be a girl considering the sibling is so much bigger, but thats just whats suspected, But I'm starting to see the bumps/dots developing on her back legs, so probably making my mom a little sad, I think matey may infact be a boy lol...But I'm sure i'll find out soon.

And as for an update on mozart, I'm taking him to a vet tomorrow, for a check up and some x-rays to make sure everything is infact better, cause i know that stuff like food being impacted for too long can cause bacteria and other bad things, and I want to make sure he's in as best shape as he can be. I will definitely get one of the temp gages, I was looking for the best one today, so i'll pick one up tomorrow.

I do have a question though, I have read alot on beardies and them being put together, and i know some people say that it's alright to have two boys in one habitat, or two girls, and some say it's bad and that they will fight. so I really wasn't sure what to do when these two get a little older and possibly end up being two boys. if matey is in-fact a girl, I will separate them right away. but keep the cages close, cause these two are BEST friends, I don't think they would be happy with me if I set them too far apart. but I just wanted to know the best way to do things, cause i already have two cages, cause mozart was my first, I bought him from my work about three months ago, and the other two I got about three weeks ago. so their of course separate. I just really want to know the best opinions on how to work with them in time, because I have alot of Things I've read, but not all the same answers, So I just want to get the best suggestions.

Two males will fight, and likely kill each other. Regardless of sex, it would be better for the dragons to be separated. You can keep two adult females together, or an adult male with multiple adult females...but it should always, and only be adults. Babies need their own space to thrive and grow.

The fact that you are noting a size difference between the two already tells you there is a problem. At this age, males and females should be the same size. The most common problem with hosuing babies together is that one beardie thrives and gets big and robust, and the other stays smaller because its being out-competed. This is why beardies should be housed alone. Many people mistake their beardies for being "friends" because they hang out together - or sit on top of each other. This is not a friendly behavior, but a dominant one. Almost always, its the bigger one that is doing all the sitting....they are dominanting the other dragon, which is one of the factors leading to the smaller size of the other dragon. Size difference between males and females, as far as length, really isnt noticeable until they are almost full grown...and sometimes not even at all...I have a 20inch female. I have a printed sheet at home on my computer with a bunch of info on keeping multiple dragons together - i will post it when i get home from work.

As i said, adult beardies can be housed together - only when they are full grown and their sex is known. And the tank must be VERY big...with multiple basking spots so each dragon can attain its optimum temps without having to share a branch with another dragon.

As for a general caresheet...i dont really have time to type everything out...but if you read through this forum you will see most of the info you need. A lot of the info i posted in my last post to you is also good general care info.

For me, the most important aspects of beardie keeping are: proper temps (measured with proper devices - digital!!!), good UVB, good supplementationa nd diet, and being housed alone.
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

Actually, If I can ask, can I have a detailed list of everything i need and should be doing for my babies needs. I already have to my best of knowledge everything i need, but I want to make sure, I just with everything that has happened, I worry, I know That I seem to have a good idea, but It really would do me some good, seeing as I have three that are ranging about 5 to 6 months old, to just really have a check list, almost a care sheet, to check or improve anything and everything. even bulb types, their wattage . just seriously everything, not only for me, but also, working in the pet care department, and having beardies in my care there, I really would like to print up a detailed care sheet for anyone interested in adopting one of them so they know that their not an easy animal to care for, and there is alot of expenses and care involved (not that their not totally worth it, cause believe me, they are), because the incident that happened to the poor baby, because the lady didn't listen to us and the 3 hour tops rule with veggies being in the cage, her excuse being, Veggies don't go bad that fast) really hurt me, because i felt even though we told her...that we were responsible.

But anyways please do. just a detailed list. Of the products( even names of the best ones) and everything else, that would be needed or something beardies would enjoy.

Please and thank you.

Is this your bearded dragon?

The symptoms sound more like Metabolic bone disease than impaction. Phoenix worms are small and would take quite a few to ever cause problems impaction wise. A single slightly large cricket isn't likely to cause problems.

Straining to poop could mean blockage most likely from ingesting carpet fibers or even internal parasites. Dehydration and constipation could cause straining too. Shaky and weak legs points more to calcium deficiency.

Soaking will help hydrate the dragon but if the problem is lack of calcium, it won't help at all.

Knowing your setup situation is very important to see if he is in the right sort of setup.

You should know what sort of cage you have and a ruler or tape measure can be used to tell us the dimensions of the cage if you can't remember how many gallons it is, if its a glass tank. If you don't know the basking and ambient temperatures then you need to buy a digital thermometer with probe to find out.

Bearded dragons also need to be exposed to UVB light, which is produced by special bulbs sold in petstores designed to produce these rays. Natural sunlight (unfiltered through glass etc) also contains UVB light.

What is this detailed diet you have for your dragon? If the temperatures in the cage are not correct or you are lacking UVB light, the best diet won't do anything if your dragon isn't getting the temperatures and UVB exposure it needs to properly digest that food.
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PHLdyPayne

Agreed with Lance. Soak the dragon in warm water for up to 20 minutes or if it passes a bowel movement first.

It sounds like your bearded has an impaction. What happens is that the blockage is pinching the nerve running along the spine causing his back legs to not work properly. Make sure the temps are good, and try soaking him(like suggested on recent post). Hopefully, he will pass whatever is causing his blockage. Josh

As has alrady been stated - a detailed history of your husbandry is needed - and quickly!

1. What size tank?
2. How old/long is the dragon?
3. What are the temps in the basking spot? How are these temps being measured - digital thermometer, stick on thermometer? How is the tank heated - white bulb, red bulb, ceramic heat emitter?
4. What brand of UVB bulb do you have? How old is it?
5. What brand of supplements are you using, what ype, and how often?

As already stated - the symptoms sound like either impaction or Metabolic Bone Disease. Do to the diet and substrate - impaction is highly unlikely. Metabolic Bone Disease is a general term used to describe a variety of disorders that arise from problems with calcium. The problem can either be not enough calcium, not enough UVB or bright white light or inadequate temps that prevent the dragon from bneing able to utilize the calcium he is being provided. There are many causes of MBD...if you can describe your set up that would be very helpful - in some minor cases...correcting improper husbandry can be enough to help the dragon, in others oral supplementations from a vet are needed. Regardless, i would look up a good reptile vet in the area and make an appt asap.
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

I'm a new member to Kingsnake but have been a member with other herp sites for some time now. People really have some sass on this post!

Agreed with other members that more info is needed to correctly diagnose this problem. More info and data always helps. What I do not agree with is some posters using CAPS to emphasize a point. What a negative way to try to help someone!

My first dragon, I bought as a teenager.
I went to a local REPTILE store, dealing with reptiles soley.
I asked questions, alot, visisted them every week for a month before I bought a dragon.
I was told how I thought it should be cared for.
My dragon was not well taken care of under those instructions I recieved.
I did not think to tap the internet as a source, and would take my dragon to the store almsot monthly ans ask is he healthy.
Yes he is, they would show me his cumps, hold his legs, point out somehting about its eye.
I after 5 years decided to part with my dragon.
5 years later, I am on my own, have lots of space.
I decided, I want another dragon.
I turned to the internet, Kijiji, saw a dragon I wanted.
I turned to online care sheets read 10-20, WOW I said to my self.
My old dragon, was really miscared for. I did so many things wrong, and I now see he was not happy, and probably not healthy.
I hope the educational school I donated him to, was able to brighten his life.
My point is, with misinformation, these reptiles suffer.
BDLvr is right its not the misinformed we much critize, its the people who give the misinformation.
Now dont get me wrong, if people ignore the advice they recieve here, THEY desserve critism, and perhaps scolding for knowly mistreating thier animals now.

If we post the questions, he does not know, hopefully he will persue to find the information, we ask for, and help us help him.

Around me there are 4 pet stores, and 2 reptile stores, I buy food from them, and often ask questions I know answers to.

The original store I bought my old one from, tried to sell me chipped shell as "THE BEST" substrate for juvies.
I laughed and said no thanks.
Hot rocks too, "they love them" "They need them" the truth is, they uh, just "love to SELL them"

http://www.exclusivedragons.com/Care_Info_Library.html
this is where I began my search for information.
some helpful hints.
But dont take what you read once as fact. Find another source on your own to agree with wut ever you do find,

I listen to BDLvr and Phalydine(sp) with out backing their information up, I did for a while, now, with their obvious experience, listen to them.