Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I really need help for my baby beardie Twizzler! Two days ago my husband came upstairs and said that twizz's eyes were buldging out so much so that it scared him. I told him it was probobly nothing and that I would keep an eye on him....well today about one hour ago he did it and I was Disturbed.....his eyes were closed almost all the way and it looked as if his entire eye ball was pushed out of the socket. His eyes were rolled up in his lids....I was sooo scared. I tapped on the glass because my husband said he snapped out of it a litle before when he did it and ajusted himself afterwards, but he didn't really respond to me, so I reached in to pick him up and he snapped back and his eyes did too. His body wa pretty limp when I first held him but he became active and alert as soon as he snapped back and generally seems unaffected by it. I took down all the info imaginable and I hope that someone can help me.Thanks so much!

Twizzler is 3 1/4" SVL, 6" TL, and weighs 10g

~10g glass tank
~he's on paper towel
~UVB LIGHT:18" Reptisun 5.0
~Heat Lights:Zoo Med 75W & Exoterra 50W
~Temps with Temp Gun:Floor- 79 to 83/84F
Perch- 86 to 94 to 101
~Soaked Daily & Given Water Bowl
~AM Fed: Fresh Water
Kale/Mustard Greens/Parsley/Apples/Pears/Strawberries
6-10 sm pheonix worms or 3-6 1/2" crickets no legs
~Noon Fed: 6-10 sm pheonix worms or 3-6 1/2" crickets no legs
~PM Fed: 6-10 sm pheonix worms or 3-6 1/2" crickets no legs
Fresh water
~All bugs are dusted every meal with both Dragon Dust by T-Rex and Rep-Cal Calcium w/ D3
~Perfect poop/urate 1-2X Daily
~Active and Alert
~Willing to comeout of tank
~Runs around in and out of tank

Sincerely,
Katt and Twizz

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1.0.1 Bearded dragon (Ruby & Twizzler)
0.1.1 BRBs (Skittles & Kiko)

Dragons due that eye popping thing to help loosen shed around their eyes. It is normal even if rather freaky to see.

Just a few things about your setup.

Why two heat lights?

A 10 gal tank is not easy to give a good temperature gradient, best to use at least a 20 gal long or 35 gal long (I like the 35 gal long tanks as its a good 'middle' size between babies and adults...not to mention many other reptiles can be kept in a 35 gal tank either temporarily or permanently (helps with the 'empty tank blues').

Temp guns are great for surface temps but you still need a digital thermometer to measure ambient temperatures. (air temps).

The basking spot should reach 115F or a bit higher to allow your dragon to get up to higher temps when they need. Hence why 10 gal tanks don't work well as you can't get these higher basking temps without making the entire tank too hot.
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PHLdyPayne

Our room is in the basement we have monitor heat but its stays pretty frickin' cold...we live in NH. We are building new homes for both beardies very soon, funds are low currently. But it is in our near future. Currently we are building new tables for them to be put on. He is perfectly healthy and alert and eats like a pig....so for a little while longer it will have to do....he came from a crappy mainstream pet shop with a toe nip and a lack of proper care and nutrition and he's made huge improvements health wise -with my OCD mothering care. Thanks so much for responding! He's become a part of my family and I was sooo worried about him and you definitely calmed me down.
Thanks Again!
-Katt and Twizz

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1.0.1 Bearded dragon (Ruby & Twizzler)
0.1.1 BRBs (Skittles & Kiko)

Also, if he will eat more then offer him more insects....at his age it would be very normal to eat many more insects than you listed
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

Well, that is kinda retarted a ten gallon cage in paper towel anyways im sure not like that but well at night do you have the red light and during the day do you have a normal heat producing bulb and the one's look like a swivvel and they dont produce heat just light you need those ranging tempatures 70-110 beardie never below 70 unless at night acceptional at 65 csue it is a night light might be from irratation from the paper towel and fruit vegtables are main food always have vegtables and fruits every day need to be fresh and crickets 2-3 times a week 2 rickets FOR BABY'S NOT ADULTS and a 50-60 watt bulb

LIZARD20

I have no idea what the last poster is saying. I do agree that a 10 gallon is too small for any size dragon. UVB Producing fluorescents (straight tube) should be used. Compact Fluorescents (curled bulb) should not be used. They have been proven to cause eye damage. A red night bulb is another bad idea. I have tested them and regardless of the manufacturer's claim the red light is withing a dragons visual range and will disturb their sleep. Black bulbs are available or Ceramic heat emitters if night temps. drop below 65 for a baby. Babies to 12" should be fed crickets shorter in length than the distance between the dragons eyes 3 times a day. They should be fed all the crickets they can eat in a 15 - 20 minute period. Salad should be available between the live meals. Mustard greens and dandelion are great greens to start with. Torn into pieces no larger than the dragons head. I find that if you put a bottom full of water in the dish and mist the salad it will not dry out all day. Greens do not need to be supplemented. Live food should be dusted with Calcium w/D3 No phosphorus or Vitamin A (I feel RepCal is best) each feeding but one a week that should be dusted with a multivitamin. I put mine in a juice pitcher to dust them. It's way easier than trying to get them in and out of a bag.

Eye bulging as stated earlier is completely normal and they will do it occaisionally throughout their life.