Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello,

I bought a fish tank about 3months ago to have fish in but every time I did, the fish died. When I talked to the pet store and had my water tested, they claimed that the Nitrate and Nitrite in my water was extremely too high for fish to survive in.

Since I cannot have fish and I have a empty tank, I decided I want to convert it to a snake tank. My problem is that it is an odd-shaped tank (a half moon crescent) and the lid has holes where the filter and heater had access.

I was just wondering if any of you would have so ideas to escape-proof my lid so I can get a cornsnake.

Doesn't sound like that tank is going to work for a snake tank. If you're going to use a tank to keep a corn in, you want one that has a sliding lid with a latch. Even if you get a sit down type of lid for that tank that fits the tank the snake CAN and will push it up and get out. It doesn't work well to weigh the lid down with books or whatever either because sooner or later you're going to forget to put the weight on the lid and the snake will escape.

I'm really sorry, but your best bet is to get either a different enclosure or keep another species of herp in the enclosure that you have that is not so escape prone as a corn is.

There are some things you can do. This is a good time to trade since people are low on cash. Some people with a convention square tank may like to "upgrade" to a fancy tank. That could be a selling point.

You could trade a dealer for another tank.

Sell the tank.

Get water from a commercial source that is better quality. Just some thoughts
Dave
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One man with faith equals the majority.
Thomas Jefferson

If you are crafty you could construct a lid out of wood and wire and so on. However, as stated above corns are sneaky and will try to push the lid off so you would have to make sure it fits very securely...and that it either has a secure locking system or that its heavily weighted down.
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1.1 Bearded Dragons
2.2 Leopard Geckos
1.0 Uromastyx (Mali)
1.1 Corn snakes
0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake
1.0 Bairds Ratsnake
1.0 Rosy Boa
1.1 Green Anoles
1.1 House Geckos
0.0.2 Flying Geckos
0.0.1 Red Eye Tree Frog

At the shop we use aquarium tubing tied in a simple knot so the loop is tight around the tank and lid. At home I just place teh knot under the tank and line it up about 1" in from the ends of the tank so you do not see it much. Make the tubing tight, as it will stretch. As snake can not lift teh tank with this simple cord wrapped around it, and its cheap.
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.HerpZillA.com

>>Doesn't sound like that tank is going to work for a snake tank. If you're going to use a tank to keep a corn in, you want one that has a sliding lid with a latch. Even if you get a sit down type of lid for that tank that fits the tank the snake CAN and will push it up and get out. It doesn't work well to weigh the lid down with books or whatever either because sooner or later you're going to forget to put the weight on the lid and the snake will escape.
>>
>>I'm really sorry, but your best bet is to get either a different enclosure or keep another species of herp in the enclosure that you have that is not so escape prone as a corn is.

sure it will just cut a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood to match the top.
drill some holes for air, cut out a section to accomodate a light and staple screen on the inside of the plywood so a snake can't get out.
It's not really as hard as it sounds.
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

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TINY holes! Haha! Smaller than you think. But I agree with you Jimmy. That's what I'd do. And then I'd make the best looking setup I could possible dream of and stick it in the living room to show it off no matter how much the parents argue!
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No, we're never gonna quit,Ain't nothin' wrong with it,Just actin' like we're animals - Nickelback, Animals

You can also find round soffit sp? vents. Use a hole saw and glue or screw them in for vents. They also make rectangle ones if your more handy.
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.HerpZillA.com

>>You can also find round soffit sp? vents. Use a hole saw and glue or screw them in for vents. They also make rectangle ones if your more handy.
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yeah but they would look better and make more sense.
Can't have that now can we?....LOL
good idea!
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

DAMn I clicked somethign and lost a long post.
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Thanks for reading.
Big Tom

www.HerpZillA.com

>>>>These are some old, low quality photos but they give you an idea.
This is for a rectangular tank but there is absolutely no reason this couldn't be done with any shape tank.
The first pic will show the top on a twenty gallon tank.

the next picture shows a top view of the lid. If you notice there are two blocks that the light fixture is actually mounted to. The lid is cut to match the outside dimensions of the tank.

The next picture will show a view of the underside of the lid.
You will see the screen stapled to prevent escape and on each side of the lid you will see slats that do not quite go the full width of the lid. These were cut to the specific length to establish a tight fit inside the tank when the lid is placed on top of the tank.
This is why the handles. The fit is tight enough to prevent escape and, well, the handles are obviously to lift the lid...lol

and the last pic shows one made to accomodate a dome light

these are rough examples but they do work.
I have ten or eleven in use at this time. I have never had a snake escape from any tank using these lids. I think the first one I made was in '02 or '03
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

>>>>>>forgot to mention the screen is not metal. It is a plastic screen.
Very strong but non-abbrasive
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Corn snakes and rat snakes..No one can have just one.
"Resistance is futile"
Jimmy Johnson
(Draybar)
Draybars Snakes

_____

Yeah... it might be good for a small turtle, like a male DBT.

Their water requirements aren't so picky, as long as you're running a filter and use a chlorine stabilizer.

Walt

What happened is you did not properly establish the biofilter.

The easiest way to start a biofilter is to start with 1 feeder goldfish per 5 gallons of water. Get the good test kits.

The best biofilter is either an under gravel filter or a external filter that has a biowheel. Ask the pet store for a cup of gravel from an established fish tank.

Fish produce ammonia which is bad for fish as it builds up, and there is a bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite which is bad for fish, and there is a second bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate that is relatively harmless to fish. It's called the nitrogen cycle.

Watch the chemistry levels with thew test kit - you will initially see the ammonia levels spike, then it will start to drop and nitrite will start to spike. Then after a few weeks the nitrite level will go down and the nitrates will start to rise.

Once you ammonia levels measure 0ppm and the nitrite levels measure 0ppm, the biofilter is established. Discard the goldfish, adjust the temp and and ph to the requirements of the fish you want to keep, and get the fish you want to keep.

Another method I have used quite successfully is called "fishless cycle" - you set the fish tank up but do not get any fish. You use pure ammonia to start the cycle, but make really sure it is pure ammonia (diluted in water) - absolutely no detergents or scents or other stuff added. Walmart carries it, or at least use to, for about 99 cents a bottle.

In a 5 gallon bucket, figure out how many drops it takes to raise the ammonia level to 5 parts per million (use your test kit). Write that number down - so you know how many drops to add to your fish tank. (IE for 20 gallon, you would multiply that number by four).

Get some gravel from an established fish tank, and with NO FISH, add the right number of drops of ammonia to spike the tank to 5 parts per million. Do not add any more ammonia until the ammonia level has dropped to 2 parts per million (indicating the ammonia eating bacteria is reproducing) - you will start to see the nitrite level spike. At that point, add HALF the original number of drops of ammonia every day and monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels every day.

The ammonia level will eventually drop to 0ppm 24 hours after adding but the nitrite level will spike. Then the nitrite level will start to drop and nitrate level will start to spike. At this point, add live plants if you want them.

When the ammonia level shows 0ppm 24 hours after adding ammonia and the nitrite levels show 0ppm 24 hours after adding ammonia, your biofilter has been established. Stop adding ammonia, and 24 hours after the last time you added ammonia, you can add fish.

The nitrates - they are harmless to fish but can cause excessive algae growth, so when the nitrate levels reach 40ppm, change 20% of the water. The removed water is great for your garden.

Anyway - for further details, google "fishless cycle" and "fish tank nitrogen cycle".
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Arrrggg!
It's like Shalom, but for pirates.
- iCarly

It saddens me to know that 75 percent of people who get into the aquarium hobby leave it because they have simple problems like this.

I can help you with the aquariums if your willing to listen (not to boast but i'm an established aquarist of 15 years).

I think you should go back to your original intention and re-set this tank up as an aquarium and get yourself some literature and do some reading not only about corns, but about aquariums.

buy yourself a decent terrarium from either one of the businesses listed here for $100 or so. or do the same at petco/petsmart. i like the ones with the sliding hoods, especially for corns as they are escape artists.

Considering the amount of work you would have to do to convert your current tank plus heat and bedding and decor i think your better off just buying it the right way from the get go. Also look at it this way, if you get all the right stuff initially you'll never have to do it again.

Also keep in mind that corns don't "need" huge enclosures, pretty decor and lighting, if you do some research you'll find that most of the people on this website use plastic locking lid shoe boxes made by rubbermaid and sterilite as they are cheap and efficient. This plus some holes poked in it, a smaller box inside to give the animal shelter, a water bowl, some sort of substrate such as commercial snake bedding or paper towels and a heat source and a thermostat is all you really need. The only thing that is going to cost you anything is the thermostat and heat source.

let me know your thoughts.

Jayson

So I did as many suggested, I got a new enclosure and got my corn. Actually, I found an ad on Craigslist about a corn that someone wanted to get rid of or they were just going to release it into the wild. I didnt think this would be a good thing, so I told them I would take her. SHE IS BEAUTIFUL! And I am thrilled to have her.

Here is a picture of her!