Is that folks forget what they are keeping is a reptile. This sounds odd, but its so very true.
A reptile controls its bodily functions with energy gained from outside sources, an ectotherm. This is totally forgotten with most keepers.
Their bodily functions take energy to complete(heat) If they cannot get to the energy they need, those functions fail.
Conditions like upper respitory infections, mouthrot, poor shedding are all directly related to a failed immune system. Which is commonly caused by poor enviornmental choices.
Soaking in the water bowl is a DIRECT symtom of dehydration. Of course, mites also cause this, as mentioned. If your snake doesn't have mites, then look for dehydration.
These problems are very common at this time of year as the outside temps change, without the KEEPER adjusting the cage temps. ALso if you have a screen top, the drier air of fall and winter, can cause extreme dehydration.
Of course, your snakes problems can be something else or caused by something else, but the above is by far the most common causes of what you mentioned.
The cures are simple, snakes in nature, find what they need(or perish), they are not restricted to a average temp as they are commonly forced to in captivity.
If you watch this board, each and every fall its filled with problems like yours. All this points out is, some keepers conditions are a little less then average and their snake fails.
You mentioned, as so many do, you want to keep your snake the right or best way. MOST HERE DO NOT. They keep their animals in a human controlled follow the others "average" way. They tell the snakes what to do. Telling the snakes what to do can never be the best way. Allowing the snakes to make their own choices, will always be a better way.
All you have to do is allow them the ability to make their own choices. Offer them a a choice, its easy. Then you can avoid such common problems. A deep substrate with various degrees of humidity(not wet). Plenty of hiding places with different conditions and a range of temp choices from ambient room temp(65 to 75F) on the cool side, to around 100F, of course, 85F is marginal, 90F is better, 95F even better, 100F is all you would ever need on the warm side. Of course, the snakes need the ability to avoid those high temps when not needed. If you do this, your snake can get what it needs and make its own choices, and that includes brumating if it so desires.
There are many many simple easy cheap ways to do this, and which one depends on you and your setup and your needs and wishes.
To force these fine animals to do what we want is a human control issue, and has nothing to do with snakes.
You will see in the following posts the abundance of human control issues. Cheers
p. s. Thanks Tom
