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Alright i have a 6 foot male burmese python i was wondering if someone could help me with cage plans for my snake for life and what all materials to use for the whole thing because iam lost when i comes to that kind of stuff my dad is going to help me build the cage because he is very handy and i dont know were to start i would appreciate some info and plans As Soon As Possible

Thanks,,

Lee

I am not a handy person, however, I have some beautiful cherry wood cages that were built for part or our herp display at the wildlife center that I direct. I can't help you with the actual design/plan, however, I can tell you what things to consider when making your cage:

1) Use TEMPERED glass on the front and make sure they fit into sturdy aluminum tracks and locked with a dispaly type of lock.
2) I would drill vent holes directly into the back wall of the cage, OR, use very sturdy vents and make sure they are secure to prevent escape.
3) Melamine is a very popular and often used wood for making cages. Just make sure that all seems are caulked properly to prevent moisture from damaging the wood. You can even seal the floor with bar top laquer (something that was recommended to me)
4) I would recommend a pro product radiant heat panel to heat your cage. Ideally, a full grown male burm will need a cage that is, AT THE VERY MINIMUM, 6' wide x 3' deep x 2' tall. If you can add two feet to the width and one foot to the height, that would be optimal. Ligthing can be accomplished by mounting a fluorescent light fixture to the roof of the cage (just make sure that there are no exposed cords for the snake to get entangled in). Or, you can simply heat the cage with an incadescent light and a heat mat connected to a thermostat.

I know some other folks can provide some better direction but these are a few considerations. Good luck.

I have a cage design that results in a very sturdy cage that is 6 foot 6 wide, 3 foot 3 inches deep, and 18 inches high. It only requires two sheets of plywood to build these cages. I build them this way so that I can stack them 4 cages high and still be able to get into the uppermost cage without a ladder. I used to have these cage designs in a prewritten, form email that I would send to other herpers, but it got deleted from my "sent" file a couple months ago. I'll try to write the directions here very generally. Keep in mind I am going by memory, so if I forget something don't be upset with me, . Also, I build mine with flop-down doors literally cut out of a plywood front with a sheet of plexi for a viewport. In these directions I use sliding glass because most people seem to prefer this.

Materials list:

2 sheets 3/4" plywood or melamine board.
1 box #6 1 1/2" gold screws.
2 1x3 boards
4 1x2 boards
1 tube waterproof silicone (gun type tube. buy the gun if you need it)
1 gallon water base paint or exterior wood laquer/poly base sealant
2 sheets 1/4" glass 16 1/2" by 40"
1 piece 1x2 hardware cloth (wire mesh)

First cut your plywood sheets at 78 inches.
Next, cut each 78" by 48" to 39" by 78". At this point you should have two 39x78 inch sheets, two 9x78 inch pieces, and two 18x48 inch pieces. The 39 by 78 inch sheets are your bottom and top, of course. The two 9 by 78 pieces will serve as your backing later, so set them aside.

Cut the two 18 by 48 inch pieces down to 38 1/4". Now you will have two 18 x 38 1/4 pieces that are the cage sides.

For the bottom of the cage, select the smoothest sheet to be your cage floor. This will help to make painting or sealing a lot easier later. One at a time, place your cage sides on the bottom sheet and screw the bottom into them. You won't need to pre drill any holes if you are using 3/4" plywood. Make sure the sides SET on the bottom. It won't work the other way. Also make sure that all the edges of plywood that will be the front of the cage are flush. The back part of the side panels will be inset 3/4" to allow for the back panels to overlap them later.

Once you have the sides attached to the bottom sheet, attach the two back panels. Place them together with the factory edges facing one another to make a perfect fit. These two pieces put together form the 18 by 78 you need for the back. Screw these into the sides and bottom. You can put brackets across the seam in the middle if you like, but I have never needed to, so you don't have to if you don't want to.

Next you will set the top sheet on the 3 sided box. The tops of all the wals should be flush and level. Screw this in. By the way, you only need a scew about every 10 or 12 inches for it to be more than adequately strong.

Now you have your primary box/cage. Next you will cut the two 1x3 boards to 78. Cut the remaining 18 inch boards down to 17 1/4. Use these boards to frame up the front opening of the cage. This is a buffer box for your sliding glass sheets and also a little bit of added strength since this front has no support wall. After you have screwed these boards in to make a window box you will cut the 1x2 boards to 76 1/2 inches. Screw two of these onto the bottom 1x3 window box board, approximately 5/8" appart. The glass panes will slide in between these two 1x2 boards, so they have to be over 1/2" appart. Do the same on the top window box board, but only install the inner-most 1x2. You'll want to put the last board in after the glass is inserted.

Now cut a good sized vent on one end of the cage. I usually go with 8 by 24 on these cages. Cover with 1/2 inch hardware cloth, staple firmly. (As a precaution against possible future escape you can screw a wood frame down over the edges of the wire)

Now vaccum and blow out any and all dust and debris from the inside of the cage. Run a thick bead of caulk/silicone around the inside joints. Personally, I only do the "Bucket area" on mine, which is about 6 inches up each corner, but if you want to do the entire cage that is up to you. But it isn't likely that a python will get wet messes up above 6 inches. Wait a day and paint. Again,.. I tape off and paint only the bucket area to save time and money, but you can paint the whole thing if you wish. But if you want to save a lot of time you can tape off the bottom 6 inches of the cage and paint that and it saves a lot of time. Keep in mind when caulking and painting to get all the joints of the wood that make up the window box, or glass doors support. You don't want this absorbing moisture and expanding.

When the paint or poly is dry place your glass sheets in and attach your last piece of wood. One last tip, you can get the glass a lot cheaper if you get used glass. It usually has such minute scratches that they are hard to find, but it's only 8 to 10 bucks a sheet.

For heating, like Carmichael said, get a radiant heat panel.

I hope this helps you and anyone else that took the time to read it.

>>Alright i have a 6 foot male burmese python i was wondering if someone could help me with cage plans for my snake for life and what all materials to use for the whole thing because iam lost when i comes to that kind of stuff my dad is going to help me build the cage because he is very handy and i dont know were to start i would appreciate some info and plans As Soon As Possible
>>
>>Thanks,,
>>
>>Lee
-----
True "power" is not to be found in social or economic placement or stature, which are merely illusory, finite, frail and brief.
True power is to be found in one's sheer will and personal determination to achieve one's goals at ANY cost and at ANY sacrifice.

Hi Brian, I still have your original email that you sent me with the cage plans. Do you want me to email you back your original email to me (did that make sense? )
-----
Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.
Martin Luther King, Jr.

"In any civilized society, it is every citizen's responsibility to obey just laws.
But at the same time, it is every citizen's responsibility to disobey unjust laws."
—Martin Luther King Jr

I just got a 8.5ft burm and have been looking around for some good plans. Thanks!

Their not really my plans to pass out, nothing personal. If Brian says it's fine than I'd be glad to. He's 3 hr's behind me in time so I assume he'll be rolling out of bed sometime soon. Take care, Scott.
-----
Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.
Martin Luther King, Jr.

"In any civilized society, it is every citizen's responsibility to obey just laws.
But at the same time, it is every citizen's responsibility to disobey unjust laws."
—Martin Luther King Jr

to mine about a caging question, Brian asked if anyone that still had the plans to fax them to me...so I'm guessing he doesn't and won't have a problem with it.

Not to sound too selfish, but if you did that it would save me the time of doing it myself, lol (now that I have the original designs back). I tried to post the directions here going by memory, but made at least one mistake in doing so. It may not sound like much, but even that one little 1" mistake can throw the whole thing off. So I'm glad that you came up with the original designs. So please, do send them to anyone that needs them.

>>Their not really my plans to pass out, nothing personal. If Brian says it's fine than I'd be glad to. He's 3 hr's behind me in time so I assume he'll be rolling out of bed sometime soon. Take care, Scott.
>>-----
>>Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.
>>Martin Luther King, Jr.
>>
>>"In any civilized society, it is every citizen's responsibility to obey just laws.
>>But at the same time, it is every citizen's responsibility to disobey unjust laws."
>>—Martin Luther King Jr
-----
True "power" is not to be found in social or economic placement or stature, which are merely illusory, finite, frail and brief.
True power is to be found in one's sheer will and personal determination to achieve one's goals at ANY cost and at ANY sacrifice.

I just wanted the OK first. I haven't actually built one yet but threw one together quickly with what I had laying around here. My burm is only 7' right now so I have a bit before I have to go with the full size. The one I built is 6'. I'll send that out to Lucy right now then. Take care, Scott.
-----
Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.
Martin Luther King, Jr.

"In any civilized society, it is every citizen's responsibility to obey just laws.
But at the same time, it is every citizen's responsibility to disobey unjust laws."
—Martin Luther King Jr

Hi there could you email the plans for the cage to me, I just recently purchased a beautiful albino burmese and I looking to build her a permanent home, she's about 2 feet right now.

In the instructions I posted here I said to use 1x3 boards for the window box. Looking at the original designs I see that those are actually supposed to be 1x4" boards. Of course! I'm sure there are more mistakes, but I will pour over it and I'll post those instructions here as well. These are for 5/8" plywood, by the way, just so everyone knows.

Here is the original email (thanks again Scott):

>Hi,
>As I got a huge response on this I am going to make a "form
>email" and
>simply copy and paste it to each of you.
>The cage is relatively simple, yet very strong and offers ample
>space for
>any python up to the 15-16 foot range. I will first make a
>"materials list"
>and then a "measurements description" and lastly the basic
>construction
>instructions. It's all very easy to do and even the least handy
>person can
>build one of these.
>
>Materials List:
>2 sheets 4x8 plywood, 5/8 thick
>3 8ft boards 1"x4"
>4 8ft boards 1"x2"
>2 pieces of 1/4" thick, glass 16 1/2"x40"
>1 tube silicone (kitchen & bath)
>1 quart polyurethane or water base paint (optional, but
>suggested)
>1 box 1 1/4 gold screws #6
>
>Measurements Description:
>
>Plywood; 2 pieces 78"x39" (top & bottom of cage)
>2 pieces 18"x38 3/8" (sides or ends of cage)
>2 pieces 9"x78" (these combine to form the back of the cage)
>
>1x4 Boards; 2 pieces 76 3/4" (front support & window base)
>2 pieces 16 1/2" (side upright supports & window frame edge)
>
>1x2 Boards; 4 pieces 75 1/2" (these will serve as window tracks)
>
>Ok,.. to save time have them make the cuts for you at your home
>improvement
>store. But make sure you doublecheck their cuts! They are often
>idiots and
>can cut it way off what it should be. Once you begin to
>construct the cage,
>start with the bottom and the two sides. Set the bottom on its
>side and
>hold
>the sides against it as you screw the back onto the sides. (make
>sure it is
>the back that overlaps the sides, not the other way around. So
>that when
>it's finished, the sides are sandwiched between the top and
>bottom) Make
>sure that all the plywood facing the front of the cage is flush.
>The top
>and
>bottom will over hang the back approximately 5/8" so as to inset
>the back
>of
>the cage later. There is no need to pre-drill the screw holes.
>Screws
>shouldbe about every 8 to 12 inches. Just screw about 1/4 inch in from
>the edge
>and straight. Next, lay this down and attach the top onto the
>upright
>sides.
>Again, let the back overhang 5/8 inch, keep the front egdes
>flush. Now you
>will attach the two back pieces to form one sold back wall.
>There is no
>need
>to add center brace, but it doesn't hurt to do so. When this is
>done, place
>the two 76 3/4" 1x4 boards across the top and bottom of the
>front opening.
>Screw in place. Next add the 16 1/2" 1x4 uprights on the left
>front and
>right front between the two boards. This should complete a full
>window box
>around the front opening. Next add three of the 75 1/2" 1x2
>boards. Two of
>them should go behind where the glass will be, on the top and
>bottom of
>your
>window box. Then add another across the bottom front of your
>window box,
>approximately 1/2 inch plus a little from the rear window track
>board. Then
>set your glass in and attach the top-front window track board,
>again
>slightly over 1/2 inch from the top-rear window track board.
>This will
>allow
>the glass to easily slide by each other as you open each side.
>
>If any of this is confusing at all, just email me and I will
>walk you
>through it and even take some pictures of the specific part of
>the cage you
>need help with. I will attach one picture of this cage that I
>have on file
>so as to better help you to understand it. The one in the
>picture I divided
>in half for two smaller pythons, so just try to ignore the
>divider. (that's
>also optional)
>Good luck with your cage building, Brian

>>Hi Brian, I still have your original email that you sent me with the cage plans. Do you want me to email you back your original email to me (did that make sense? )
>>-----
>>Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.
>>Martin Luther King, Jr.
>>
>>"In any civilized society, it is every citizen's responsibility to obey just laws.
>>But at the same time, it is every citizen's responsibility to disobey unjust laws."
>>—Martin Luther King Jr
-----
True "power" is not to be found in social or economic placement or stature, which are merely illusory, finite, frail and brief.
True power is to be found in one's sheer will and personal determination to achieve one's goals at ANY cost and at ANY sacrifice.

I'm enlisting my brother's help on building this and he thinks he may have enough materials for it to work. I'll see what we come up with material wise and take along these design ideas as a guideline. If it turns out decent, I'll try to post a picture.

Raven

Brian,

I am designing stacking cages using steel framing and plastic sheeting. Have you heard of anyone having any trouble with this? Also I am looking for thermostat-like device that works off of humidity. Has anyone ever seen one?

Dan

Hi Dan,

I couldn't speculate on these materials as I have never built cages like that, but I would think that you might have problems with the plastic bending under weight. Most existing plastic cage designs seem to have ribs or angles molded right into the plastic itself to lend strength and a resistance to buckling. Other than this, I would advise using a very strong steel/angle framework specifically designed to support great weight. You wouldn't want it to be rickety or to collapse.

You might try asking about a humidity "hygrostat" or "hydrostat" (I don't know if these words exist, I am using them to describe a would-be product) at a specialty nursery or garden store. I have never heard of one, but it seems a relatively simple concept and so they should exist. Post here is you find them,. I will want some myself.

>>Brian,
>>
>>I am designing stacking cages using steel framing and plastic sheeting. Have you heard of anyone having any trouble with this? Also I am looking for thermostat-like device that works off of humidity. Has anyone ever seen one?
>>
>>Dan
-----
True "power" is not to be found in social or economic placement or stature, which are merely illusory, finite, frail and brief.
True power is to be found in one's sheer will and personal determination to achieve one's goals at ANY cost and at ANY sacrifice.

Here is a realy cool and informative site for building a burm cage. It has a complete list of materials and measurements. It also has a lot of pics. I plan on building one just like it real soon. Good luck and hope it helps.
http://www.albinoburmese.com/house.html

>>Here is a realy cool and informative site for building a burm cage. It has a complete list of materials and measurements. It also has a lot of pics. I plan on building one just like it real soon. Good luck and hope it helps.
>>http://www.albinoburmese.com/house.html