Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I posted a message about a month or so ago about one of my baby brbs not eating. I have resolved that issue by offering live hoppers and she has eaten two of them three weeks straightMy male brb accepts both live and f/t, so he gets f/t from here on out. I was wondering if you guys have any methods that work well while trying to convert one of these guys over to f/t. I tried to feed her a f/t large fuzzy warmed to 115 deg. last night but he showed no interest, so I will go with the live hoppers again for this week.

First off, I have not actually completed the process as I have my own feeder colony so always have fresh on hand. (I'm perpetually at step 2 completed )

It's usually fairly easy to switch a BRB over the F/T, many will make it in a single step, simply offer a warmed up F/T feeder and done. Others are not so easy and you need to take a stepped approach. Also, it's OK if they miss a few meals, makes em hungry and more willing to eat anything. Steps to getting one switched over can include....

1) Good eaters do better so get them on a regular cycle first.

2) Get them eating F/K (maybe even still twitching?) - yes, that means you have to kill their prey for them. I know - no fun but suck it up!!

3) Once regularly eating F/K, try F/K that has set for ten minutes (allowed to cool a little)

3) Next step is F/T, be sure the feeder is FULLY thawed and warmed back up to correct temp. Too cold or too hot and can be refused. I don't know what that temp is, try temp guning a live one??

Tips/tricks I've heard

1) DUH, wiggle it

2) leave it and do not disturb

3) Braining it - yuck - but if it works???

Most of my adults and subadults are on F/K. I do have two "mousers" that refuse rats and only eat live mice. Sucks but I deal with it. Mine are not overfed so when I am feeding I do get strong feeding responses and even those that do not strike/coil will typically eat the dead animal if simply left there for a half hour or so.
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Thanks,

Dave Colling

www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com

0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)

LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders

lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats

Use tongs to wiggle the f/t so you don't get nibbled on. That works for 90% of mine. I still have a couple that will only eat if I leave it overnight (be sure to remove in the morning if they don't eat it... pew!) and I have a couple that no matter how hard I try will only eat live (only 1 is not WC) and I have one little hypo that just won't touch a rat no matter what state it's in. Good luck!
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7.22 BRB
10.20 BCI
1.1 Mandarin Rat Snakes
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
0.2 Corn Snakes
2.8 Leopard Geckos

Thanks allot. I will give these methods a shot until I find one that works!

I agree with leaving it in the cage overnight, that worked with my guy who came from a pet store eating only live (he switched on the first try as did my new baby who ate his first meal with me last night!). He still mostly eats that way, I don't know if it helps or not but I leave the f/t mice in a toilet paper roll that I let my rats play with beforehand so it smells better. Still F/K to start is probably your best guarantee.
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Danne
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1.0 '07 BRB "Monroe"
1.0 '08 BRB 66% het Anery "Ace"
1.0 '08 Pastel BP "Sebastian"
1.1 Leos "Bowser & Peach"
0.2 Dumbo (non-feeder) rats "Josie & Holly"

Email = dshoback@eden.rutgers.edu

Sometimes they actually get scared of a moving mouse, but when all the lights are off and they are left alone, they somehow find some courage. I have a big ole WC male (and I mean big) that does this... Goofy Snake.
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9.25 BRB
10.23 BCI
0.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
0.7 Corn Snakes
2.8 Leopard Geckos

Everyone else's advice so far has been great. One other variation on all this is next time you are feeding two hoppers to the snake let it have the first one live and you prekill the second one for it while it is eating the first one. If the snake is very calm you can even use tongs to insert the prekilled hopper in the snakes mouth just as it is finishing the first one. BUT, be carefull if the snake is not totally calm or it might spit up the first one.

>>I posted a message about a month or so ago about one of my baby brbs not eating. I have resolved that issue by offering live hoppers and she has eaten two of them three weeks straightMy male brb accepts both live and f/t, so he gets f/t from here on out. I was wondering if you guys have any methods that work well while trying to convert one of these guys over to f/t. I tried to feed her a f/t large fuzzy warmed to 115 deg. last night but he showed no interest, so I will go with the live hoppers again for this week.

I feel a lot has to do with temps. Too hot or too cold and some snakes will feel like it is not food. I do not tempp gun the feeders, but after they have been fully thawed I place them in 100 to 105 degree ater (in zip lock bags) for about 25 minutes. I agree that your snake can miss a few meals while your try getting it switched over - as in the wild they do not get regular meals!

I have 20 BRB's and I do have one that I have not been able to get switched over to f/t - as she has only ate f/t a couple of times in the last year.
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Mike

7.13 BRB
1.2 Spotted Python
1.0 Cal. King