Reptile & Amphibian Forums

protocal. I've developed an interest in the last year in the V. prasinus complex and here is what I do and thus far very sucessfully. When I first aquire imported lizards I set them up singly in 4 x 2 x 3' enclosures outside. Once they are well acclimated[depends on individual lizard] I move them to 5 x 5 x 5' out door enclosures. Because we ocasionally get cold rather than have heated boxes I have built caves shown here that the lizards absolutely love to overnight in. Once this year we got down to 49 degrees and using my temp gun the inside of the cave was 64 degrees because it is underground. This so far is working well and I now have 5 sexual pairs of V. mccreai and 2 sexual pairs of V. p. kordensis. Time will tell if I can breed them consistently and in numbers but I suspect I can. I am deliberating whether to put nesting boxes up high or allow them to nest underground in the cave. Oh well time will tell and the lizards will tell me. thanks for looking.....TC.....I DO NOT DEPARASITISE.....

Tom, no offense, but as they are, those are terrible monitor enclosures. You have a basic wire box structure but that's it. You need to fill them up with climbing furniture that allows temp gradients, cover/security, and humidity, none of which is provided in your enclosures. Stone and wire fence bottoms are also useless. They hide in that small cave because that's all they have. Should have dirt flooring, hollows, nesting choices etc.

The only other thing I'm putting in there are live Ficus trees which are on order. The trees will have cork bark wedged in them above the ground. I've always adhered to the KISS principle [keep it simple stupid]. Success tells you if you have done well. I believe based on many years experience that these will be very successfull. Someone suggest that to acclimate wc Tree Monitors you need to put them in a big cage. I've found just the opposite to be true. I put them in smaller cages to acclimate and so far out of over a a dozen have a 100 % sucess rate. As far as humidity you can't compare outdoors here with an inside cage up north plus if we think its a little dry we mist them. Did you see the water in one of the acclimation cages? Our natural humidity is 55-80% depending on if its the rainy season or not. In a 6 month period we get about 60" of rain. Think about that and then think about humidity as an issue. I think your comparing inside enclosures to outside enclosures in the subtropics and you simply can't unless you live here. Thannks for the advice.....TC

Do you see the humitity?

By the way the entire floor IS dirt covered with egg rock. Under the cave is quite simply dirt.....TC

Another thing I'm not sure you noticed are the shelves built on several levels which are utilized daily. I do think the Ficus Trees are going to be great for the lizards and nice on the eye....TC

"I put them in smaller cages to acclimate and so far out of over a a dozen have a 100 % sucess rate"

What does that mean? A 100% success rate at what?

Thanks,
Mike.

It means I haven't lost any, you know like dead ones, and all appear to be thriving. I've had many hundreds of Tree Monitors over the years and the mortality on wc females in particular is high. They come in thinner and are much more delicate than males. I still have 2 pairs in the acclimation cages but I'm happy with their progress.......TC

Hey! I think your caging system is great!

I like the KISS rule...it is the way to go.

Are these hard to care for?

I really want to get a pair.

The V. prasinus complex are among the most difficult Monitors to establish because almost all that are available are w.c. They are NOT for beginners because the mortality is high. I have a tremendous advantage by being able to keep them outside year round. When members say they need different temp. gradients [one even to me] they don't realize that outside they have that naturally with little cage furniture. I've found that if you allow them to hide constantly the risk of them dying goes up dramatically. The best acclimation is to get them used to viewing people as something other than a death threat. One person said they were using my cave system because there was nothing else which I can tell you is incorreect. I had to go out every night at first and put their noses in the caves and only now, some weeks later, are they going in at night on their on. Clearly you can see the pics of a Pair of V. p. kordensis using the multi-level shelving. If you put too much furniture how will you know what your lizard is doing. By that I mean feeding, drinking water, etc. They are totaly unlike other Varanids and among if not the most difficult species to acclimate. Once established they are a pleasure and for sure one of my favorites and I've had as many species as FR just never bred them, only sold them. Many times these lizards will not find a water bowl and need to be misted to drink. Here thats not a problem but inside up north it's a major one. Although this is my first time trying to breed them I've had many hundreds that I've maintained until they sold. I'm well aware of how difficult they can be particularly females. If you still want a pair prepare to pay several hundred dollars for each one and make sure their outwardly healthy appearing. I've done it both ways and my advice is to NOT deparasitiseunless you see a need for it. I can see the lizard and tell but don't know exactly how to explain that to you. If you decide to go ahead good luck and feel free to call me as I suck as a typist..Good Luck....TC

I've just read your thread below and contrary to popular comment the size cage you have could easily hold a pair of these lizards. To compare the V. prasinus complex to Water Monitors is like comparing Felis domesticanus to Panthera tigris in terms of size related to space available...lol...Remember these lizards are arboreal and height is important. The actual cage I have them in is over 5' tall but the cage is more than a foot off the ground allowing the lizard to be about 6' high if it wants to.......TC

Hi Tom

I live in Montreal and have kept tree monitors outside in similar pens as you. when NTL temps get to 50f I mouved them indoors in 6-6-6ft screen pens.
I dont understand why keepers say they are a fragile specie?

I use these bare cages because they work, in these tree monitors are more relaxed (not hidding all the time)

as for humidity problems! monitors should be kept dry in the cold time, watering them will cause problems.

good work keep it up!

Thanks for the read

Some of mine after only 3 months will run to the door and beg for food already. You know things are well when they do that. I have NO idea what some folks are thinking or why you want to turn something simple into something difficult. Oh well what do I know after 40 years of breeding not just Varanids but a little of everything including 11 species of Crocodilians.....TC....Nice to hear from you. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy, Healthy New Year......

>>Oh well what do I know after 40 years of breeding not just Varanids but a little of everything including 11 species of Crocodilians.....TC

It's really pretty simple....regardless of how successful your methods are, if YOUR method isn't exactly the same as THEIR method, then YOU are wrong....it's called tunnel vision and it's an epidemic on internet forums
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Mike Heinrich,
Mike@amazontreeboa.org
www.amazontreeboa.org

You know Mike the only thing that realy matters is how well you do and how happy the critters are. TIZ NOT THE METHOD BUT THE RESULT. By the way your results on ATB'S are OUTSTANDING.....TC

>>By the way your results on ATB'S are OUTSTANDING.....TC

Thank you Tom! I appreciate that - a lot!
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Mike Heinrich,
Mike@amazontreeboa.org
www.amazontreeboa.org