Due to the recent influx of egg binding scenarios, I thought I would describe my actions on dealing with this subject. I posted a majority of the info previously, but thought that this might be a little better on us all to try and cover the subject a little more in depth via one post instead of multiples that everyone has to piece together. Just a note: I am not a DVM. The advice presented is based solely on my dealings with the subject. It is completely up to you to decide the actions you take. I'm sure most breeders out there have been through similar situations, so if there is something I miss in this post, please assist in correcting or adding information.
Egg Binding - also know as Dyscocia. Easy definition is the retaining of fertilized/unfertilized eggs past assumed date of deposition.
Causes:
1. Stress
2. Low Calcium levels
3. Temperature
4. Internal injury
5. Internal obstruction
Stress can be a major factor. Shipping, pressure from cage mates, handling, etc. can all cause stress that only your gecko knows. During the breeding season try to keep activities outside their home to a minimum.
Low calcium levels jeopardize both your animal and egg surface development. You will see from other posts that breeders keep a small dish of calcium within their groups and I highly recommend this. Your Geckos will use as needed.
Temperature at low levels and very high levels can induce stress and inhibit their body’s metabolism from its natural course. I keep mine at 89-90 24/7 during breeding season via Flexwatt© heat tape.
Internal injuries and obstructions can happen, but I have yet to have this happen personally. Accidents happen, which is why I also think it is good to limit activities outside of their environment. I also know that the sac containing the eggs can become twisted which then blocks the eggs natural path of exit causing obstruction. This can only be determined by x-ray performed by your vet of choice.
Is my Leo egg bound?
My leopards deposit eggs during season every 3-3.5 weeks. It is on the fifth-sixth week of no deposition that I investigate and take corrective action. Some leopards will drop one egg only, some will drop one and then 4-7 days later the other will follow. My single egg fertility and survival rate is pretty high even for first year females, but this can always differ.
The sooner you catch it, the better. This is the importance of record keeping. Knowing your Leos deposition schedule and taking timely action can ultimately save you from having to deal with higher vet costs and a broken heart.
You will notice a sizeable increase in mid-body swelling. You know your gecko and its habits and would be a good time to review your records and check last date of deposition. You will also be able to feel or palpate the eggs inside with your fingers by applying a small amount of pressure and gently feeling around their belly for egg contours. You may feel anywhere from 2-4 eggs. If you have seen Leo eggs in person or have had eggs before you are aware of the size and shape. You will definitely feel bound eggs, especially if she is well overdue, as your leos stomach area will be very turgid to the touch, due to the egg calcification and hardening internally.
Your geckos will probably remain active and feeding while bound, but this varies between species and captive circumstances. Your leo will gain weight due to the addition of eggs, but your leo may experience thinning of the tail and become lethargic. This varies between animal and should not be used as a guide to determine an appropriate time to have your leo checked by a professional. I usually ask this and try to determine at what level a certain animal might be at then cross reference that with additional information given. To date, most of mine have acted as normal with no change in behaviors through out a binding period. Most of my bound Leos will start to lose tail fat in the very late stages of binding.
Corrective Action:
If you believe your Leo is bound, seperate immediately. Double-check your records and dates to back up your determination. Take a moment and review your husbandry techniques. You will find that keeping herps is always a learning process and mistakes will be made. Just be sure to learn from them! I would then contact my local veterinarian, preferably one that deals with exotics, and schedule a visit.
Your vet will want to know all the information you can provide including housing, feeding, temperature, last deposition, current activity, etc. Be prepared to provide this.
From there your vet will make their assessment, perform an x-ray and probably issue an injection of oxcytocin (labor inducer) and calcium (standard practice). Understand that most vets, even exotic vets do not or cannot keep up with the every species and husbandry technique available so be ready to give a little insight on your species as well (nocturnal, insectivore, etc.). These things are important, as sometimes their protocol can be a little standard such as more UV (your Leo is nocturnal), increase in temp, separation, add nesting box, remove substrate, etc. Common things that you may, or may not know.
Now What?
After treatment, keep your Leo separated and follow your vets instructions if applicable. Provide her with a nest box and keep any decor to a minimum to watch fecal/feeding activity.
If initial treatment is successful, your leo should deposit within 24 hours. If not, follow-up injections of oxcytocin may be required. If after subsequent treatments, your leo does not deposit, surgery may be required. Your vet will be able to give you associated cost and perhaps explain the procedure so you have a better understanding regarding your animals case. I have not had to have surgery on any of my Leos, but to my knowledge the surgical process of removing the eggs would terminate the ability for your Leo to produce (I will research that more and correct if necessary).
At the end of the day:
If corrective action is not taken, your Leo will ultimately decease within 2-3 months. This is the hard part. I won't get into the issue of this decision, as everyone deserves to determine this on their own, based on their own circumstances. I don't feel anyone should suffer criticism, as it is tough enough to deal with already.
Additions:
I made mention in previous posts of necropsy (post-mortem dissection). If your gecko passes, a necropsy can be performed for further study and documentation. I perform the personally for my own curiosity and to learn. This is a personal decision. If you are uncomfortable performing it yourself, you might be able to find an experienced Herpetoculturists, Herpetologist, Biologist, etc. to perform it for you if desired.
Again, what I have posted is only a basic guide and information based on my experience. When in doubt, see your vet! I hope this answers a lot of your questions and increases your knowledge regarding egg binding. If you have additional questions or comments please contact me or post accordingly. Feel free to copy and past this information for future reference.
Thanks and Good Luck!
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Galen Clark
www.captivescience.com
