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cost effective heating/lighting

laurarfl Feb 16, 2009 06:56 AM

I'm trying to find a way to manage my growing electric costs. My lizards are the major source of heating/lighting costs and I'm thinking maybe I can make some changes.

Beardies (I have a few cages) use incandescent bulbs and 10.0 strip lights. Would halogen lights save money here? The iguana and tegus have MVB which I thought would save since it's only one bulb. In the summer, the ig will be on the porch with a strip UV light, so that's not really an issue.

Since the Beardies outnumber my other power consumers, I thought I'd ask here.

thanks guys!

Replies (10)

chris allen Feb 16, 2009 07:17 AM

I dont think there really is a cost effective way, lol. But, I can use a 45 watt halogen bulb for my basking site and then two 24" fluorescent bulbs at 20 watts each.....grand total of 85 watts for a 4ft cage. Now, in cages I have tried mvb, I have to use the mercury vapor(100watt), plus at least one fluorescent bulb for added light intensity totalling at least 120 watts.

Now on to temps though, with an average room temp of 68-72, I have to keep cages with the mvb near the floor where its a bit cooler........the other cages are perfect(basking spot up to 110-115 and cool side of the cage in the high 70's). With the mvb basking spot can be similar by reducing height/increasing distance from the bulb, but the cages get a little warmer on the cool side(low 80's). Just what I have noticed....

BDlvr Feb 16, 2009 07:30 AM

What wattage incandescent are you using per cage? Cage design is most imporatant for conserving electric. My biggest cages have 2 basking spots and are 5' x 3.5' x 2' tall, they use (2) 35W par 20 flood lights plus 60 watts of UVB for a total of 130. My 2' x 4' cages use 35W plus 40W for UVB for a total of 75W per cage.

laurarfl Feb 16, 2009 08:02 AM

It really varies, but I see your point.

I only keep one basking spot and the wattage runs from 40-100, depending on cage size, location of the cage, and season. Here in Central FL, avg room temp is about 78-80...some rooms run warmer than others. We also have a lot of ambient light from windows, etc, so that helps with brightness. I also have the added advantage of utilizing natural sunlight when the weather allows.

Our power co. just added a 25% rate increase to cover the expenses of recent hurricanes and probably to upgrade in anticipation of future storms.

Perhaps just switching to halogen and complaining less should do the trick!

faygo19 Feb 16, 2009 08:55 AM

You think thats rough you should check my bills trying to keep warm weather lizards in MI during negative degree days. My furnace runs more than it doesn't. Plus thats just to keep it near 70 so i have to run 150 watt basking bulbs to get the temps up to 108ish to make him happy.

laurarfl Feb 16, 2009 10:00 AM

A furnace...what's that? Just kidding...

Our furnace will kick on this week when nighttime temps drop to the 40's...Brrr

Thanks for the perspective. It's the summer I have to worry about when we run the A/C to offset the warm room from all the dang heat lamps.

PHLdyPayne Feb 16, 2009 12:34 PM

Best way to reduce lighting/heating costs is to put heat lights on a proportional thermostat which will reduce or increase power to the lights according to temperature.

Effective cage design would be one that prevents heat escape. Glass and screen are bad for heat escape but screen doors or glass doors on a otherwise solid wood or other solid material cage help hold heat in. Screen tops really leave heat escape fast so best to cover most of the screen top (make sure there is no fire risk if hot laps are setting ontop of a cage, instead of mounted inside, when covering the top screens).

In the summer, block your AC vents to the room your reptiles are in, if at all possible, to help keep it form getting too cold (also, AC units suck up more power than anything else...better to close all the blinds during the day to prevent the house heating up due to the sun shinning through the windows).

Unfortunately the more energy efficient bulbs tend to work against herp keepers who want heat energy as well as light energy from bulbs. Compact fluorescent bulbs produce plenty of light energy but little heat so are useless as a basking bulb...leaving us with halogen or regular light bulbs to provide heat for our scalely friends. Since you do live in a very warm area most of the year, you could move your dragons into more screen cages and let them have access to the same direct sunlight your iguana has. Natural sunlight will suffice for UVB and heat, as long as care is taking to ensure your dragons don't get too hot (ie provide shaded areas for your dragons to get out of the sun if they are too hot).
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PHLdyPayne

robyn@ProExotics Feb 16, 2009 02:12 PM

You can pull a 130F basking spot using a 45 watt "lamp bulb" (incandescent) with just a few "tricks".

The easiest and most effective technique is simply to raise your basking spot toward your light. You might pull 89F trying to heat up the floor a foot away from the bulb, but 130F only 4 inches away. Same wattage bulb, you are just shortening the distance.

Even in our 10 ft cages we don't use bulbs larger than 80 watts.

Limiting your rising heat loss by covering a significant portion of a screen top is also very effective. These two work together to make achieving proper temps quite simple, using low wattage bulbs.
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

BDlvr Feb 16, 2009 07:28 PM

4" from the bulb? Seems awfully close. Wouldn't want your dragon to get burned by hitting the bulb. I use Par 20 Halogen Narrow floods. Check 1000bulbs.com I have 50's and 35's. You should try one and test it out. If your house is close to 80 ambient then you just need to get a basking spot and the ambient around it should be fine. I have never liked household bulbs because they don't direct light or heat anywhere so they are wasteful in most setups. You didn't mention what style you are using.

laurarfl Feb 17, 2009 07:25 AM

I am using the worst method ever...

40 gallon breeders with screen tops, incandescent bulbs in a reflector hood on top, and 10.0 fluorescent strips hung inside of the cage to avoid the filtering effect.

I have five of these set-ups, plus two smaller enclosures set up the same way...one for a geriatric beardie and one for a stunted juvenile. I have a couple of "rescues" that I'm hoping to rehome by spring/summer.

I'd like to build a sort of rack system, but I don't know how to do it. I also need one that would weigh less than a ton. I'd buy one if I could find one within my budget.

chris allen Feb 17, 2009 01:03 PM

This is just an option, but they have 50 gallon rubbermaids that are 42 x 21 x 18 high...might be an idea if you cant build cages, they are probably similar in size, maybe a little bigger than your 40 gallon breeders. You could hang shop lights/dome lights above the tubs, real close, not using any tops on the rubbermaids. I have seen these tubs in lowes and target for $20. Here is the link to what they look like http://www.rubbermaid.com/rubbermaid/product/product.jhtml?prodId=HPProd2947118

Again, just an option for you if you cant build cages.

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